@kpfleming thanks! Trialing it right now. Got one Rpi and VIP setup. Ip helper pointed only to the VIP. Second one will be proof of the pudding later this week. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all the help!
@kpfleming thanks! Trialing it right now. Got one Rpi and VIP setup. Ip helper pointed only to the VIP. Second one will be proof of the pudding later this week. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all the help!
interface ve 10
ip address 192.168.1.1 255.255.255.0
ip helper-address 1 172.16.110.2
ip helper-address 2 172.16.110.3
ipv6 address xxxx::1/64
ipv6 enable
ipv6 dhcp-relay destination xxxx::2
ipv6 dhcp-relay destination xxxx::3
ipv6 dhcp-relay include-options interface-id remote-id
ipv6 nd managed-config-flag
Thanks @fohdeesha Jon, if I wasn't so fixated on having an integrated interface between pihole DNS and DHCP I would have gone down this road for sure. Looked into building kea DHCP for raspi and it was not straightforward (for me) either.. I don't want to depend on a VM for this. If VRRP/keepalived doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and go either Kea or ISC.there's no need to dick around with VRRP, fastiron (and almost every other enterprise switch) supports forwarding dhcp broadcasts to multiple IPs/DHCP servers directly, then the HA component of ISC-DHCP handles which one is active (replies to the forwarded broadcasts) and which one is standby (ignores them):
If you're going through the time to set this up from scratch as well, I would highly recommend using ISC Kea, which is replacing ISC-DHCP. you can also then set up ISC Stork which is a nice web UI for ISC-KEA clusters:Code:interface ve 10 ip address 192.168.1.1 255.255.255.0 ip helper-address 1 172.16.110.2 ip helper-address 2 172.16.110.3 ipv6 address xxxx::1/64 ipv6 enable ipv6 dhcp-relay destination xxxx::2 ipv6 dhcp-relay destination xxxx::3 ipv6 dhcp-relay include-options interface-id remote-id ipv6 nd managed-config-flag
if you can figure out the hidden var to actually do that go for it lmaoHey @fohdeesha great guide! I just got my 6610. I was thinking of splunking for old licenses on the flash just because, and wondered if upping the baudrate in the bootloader would make it take less time. Anyone ever tried that?
damn you're right. just got home with my serial cable. I thought you were the hacker!if you can figure out the hidden var to actually do that go for it lmao
A user on Reddit posted an interesting problem with his ICX6610-24 (non PoE). He said his switch idles at 180-200W and when under load, can hit 400W. I told him this makes no sense given that the spec sheet indicates it only requires a single 250W power supply. The specs say the second power supply is optional, for redundancy. Also, this thread indicates it should idle at 80W or so.
[...]
Based on this information, does the switch appear to be genuine? Why would the power supply show a blank model number with no revision?
I assume you are right on every account. They HAVE been tampered with.these switches were never counterfeited (that I'm aware of), so it's certainly genuine, but it sounds like it had a pretty serious fault to begin with. if a 250w PSU is pulling 400w, I'm assuming the PSU(s) themselves had a pretty bad fault, which could also explain why their manuf data EEPROM couldn't be read (reporting all FFF)
also, if his switches were really pulling 200w or above like he states, the fans would NOT be on fan speed 1 still as his output indicates - that is an insane amount of heat for these fans to exhaust out of 1ru, they would have ramped up to fan speed 2. How is he measuring power draw?
I linked the power meter very closely resembling the one I have, as I couldn't find the my Poland/Germany only model on US Amazon. I also have DIN rail mounted current meter.I asked him the same question. He said he used this meter -https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Wattmeter-Consumption-Frequency-Electricity/dp/B0828QWQZP
He noted he’s using a 230V Shucko plug (Poland).
It didn’t make sense to me that the switch would really pull that much power so I told him to test by running with a single power supply. He said it wouldn’t boot in that configuration.
He says he has three of the 250W power supplies. Could all be defective?
if he's tried three separate supplies then there's a 99% chance the failure mode is inside the switch itself. especially if it only boots with two power supplies
So, it sounds like the switch itself is defective, and his best bet is simply to buy a new ICX6610-24. Is there any chance old firmware or a bad configuration could cause these issues? He’s looking at paying over $200 in shipping to buy a new switch from the US due to limited availability in Poland.
After reading the replies out there and looking into all the photos and other threads I could find of the switch and its insides, I came to conclusion, that I either "scored" engineering sample or qualification sample or got a result of some not-exactly-professional-but-still-somewhat-competent person frankensteining this device from scrapped or stolen lot.if he's tried 3 different PSUs and the switch always shows this behavior I'm not sure what else it could be. no way a config or firmware issue is going to make it draw 3x it's rated power
Seems to be working well now. HA piholes/DHCP/unbound DNS with keepalived VIP. 6610 iphelper is pointed only to the VIP address and there are no other hosts in the small subnet that the piholes are in.Yes, that configuration should work, although you will need to be certain to configure the DHCP server instance to use the VIP as their identity address, so that unicast replies from them will use the proper source address.
A while back I scoured through the bootloader binary and couldn't find any evidence whatsoever of an adjustable baudrate so I'm pretty sure it's stuck on 9600. The baud is easily changeable however on the newer switches that run u-boot (because it's just u-boot, use the baudrate env variable)damn you're right. just got home with my serial cable. I thought you were the hacker!
BTW what's the current recommended JTAG? Seems BDI2000 doesn't exist anymore.
holy shit what the hell lol. Can you post pictures of this monstrosity? Also your assumption is correct, they only need one PSU to run. In fact, that's how 90% of them were configured/sold. You can use any wattage too, you can boot a PoE version with the non-PoE small 250w supply (PoE just won't be enabled)Hello!
I am the reddit person with said failed switch. I have just registered to reply here.
Original post:
I assume you are right on every account. They HAVE been tampered with.
I linked the power meter very closely resembling the one I have, as I couldn't find the my Poland/Germany only model on US Amazon. I also have DIN rail mounted current meter.
After reading the replies out there and looking into all the photos and other threads I could find of the switch and its insides, I came to conclusion, that I either "scored" engineering sample or qualification sample or got a result of some not-exactly-professional-but-still-somewhat-competent person frankensteining this device from scrapped or stolen lot.
It can be either, since it's impossible to modify fan curve, and knowing devices like that usually turn into "survival mode" (fan speed to max) when some sensors are off, it behaved surprisingly well, suggesting either someone found a way to alter it, to fool the sensors or it came with pre-release fw or client-targeted one.
I should have opened it right after receiving, but I only did coursory look to see of there are no loose components or screws, threw cables in and it worked, so I left it as it is. Only thing I did was swap the PSUs around. Switch and extra PSU were bought from same place (an eBay auction, and it was private person as far as I remember).
Using this photo:
as reference, I found:
- switch has no serial number, neither on the device itself or on the motherboard, and all stickers were removed. Can't say anything about the firmware now, but you saw the zeros. Only markings I could find are laser etched "AR2054-01-011" between CPU and stack connector card and "Brocade MV1194V-0 / AB 1 026-3" under the card;
- memory stick was kaptoned to the slot from all sides and all over, and I have Smart sg57a648bro535y1sj EP2-5300c-555-13-zz. This is the only thing that has intact serial number in whole device, but I didn't find anything about this particular stick.
- all PSUs had a sticker with revision saying S5, where there would be A, B or C originally, underneath it the original rev has been scratched off. Stickers with QR and s/n are missing. They all bear marks of being opened multiple times (a lot of scratches around the screws and tabs were clearly abused). I missed this since for some time I used to handle device scrapping at my workplace so I got resistant to noticing scratches.
- I went over the motherboard with good light and found solder flux residue around almost all power components;
- almost all of electrolytic capacitors are random brands;
- Boot flash chip has "fused!" handwritten with a marker pen and flux residue around its legs; This probably explains the bricking and null s/n.
- Battery socket, after removing the battery shows signs of cleaned up corrosion (I don't ever recall seeing Lithium battery leak!); Current battery reads 2.9 V.
- headers J2, J10 and U6 had been clearly removed;
- place where POE headers go in PoE-equipped models were clearly soldered on and cleaned up;
- One of the fan tray connectors on the board had mangled pins and its mounting screw was held in place by copious amount of Locktite or similar glue. I had to wrestle it off. Fan modules look okay. There is a trace of s/n stickers being removed from them on the inside between the fans.
One thing that stands to me now, is that I never noticed the switch kicking up the fans to speeds anywhere close those heard during boot sequence, they did went up but not much - but at the same time it really did pull that much power off the wall. On idle the exhaust was moderately warm to very warm, but I wouldn't describe it as hot, like for example Dell R640 going full tilt can get, and with max traffic I could put on it it got really, really hot, enough to make keeping hand in the airstream very uncomfortable to painful.
I should also note that I misread the specifications! I assumed that both PSUs work in unison and share power, and to boot it only from one I need higher tier, 750 ow 1000 W ones. I am used to moving around 2 kW+ switches at work, so this is really why I paid no mind to inability of my device to turn on with one and the power consumption.
With all of that, and switch now bricked, even if I managed to find someone actually competent who would repair it I don't exactly feel safe putting it back into my homelab, little late perhaps, but oh well.
If anything I consider this to be a warning not to blindly trust enterprise gear. It never dawned on me someone would just go over a device like this to fix it. It's not that big blow financially, these switches go under $100 routinely, and I have other 10G gear, 40G was very cool addition, but I can live without it.
Obviously the 6K rpm Arctic's are not sufficient, at 4.5 volts calculating i presume they are spinning at 2250rpm. ((4.5/12)*6000). That's not much for a 40mm fan, and one can barely feel any airflow.So this was with 3x Arctic 4028-6K fans installed:
Code:show chassis The stack unit 1 chassis info: Power supply 1 (NA - AC - PoE) present, status ok Power supply 2 not present Power supply 3 not present Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2 Fan 2 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2 Fan 3 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2 Fan controlled temperature: 63.5 deg-C Fan speed switching temperature thresholds: Speed 1: NM<----->65 deg-C Speed 2: 56<-----> 79 deg-C (shutdown) Sensor B Temperature Readings: Current temperature : 56.5 deg-C Sensor A Temperature Readings: Current temperature : 63.5 deg-C Warning level.......: 69.0 deg-C Shutdown level......: 79.0 deg-C
show chassis
The stack unit 1 chassis info:
Power supply 1 (NA - AC - PoE) present, status ok
Power supply 2 not present
Power supply 3 not present
Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 2 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 3 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan controlled temperature: 57.5 deg-C
Fan speed switching temperature thresholds:
Speed 1: NM<----->65 deg-C
Speed 2: 56<-----> 79 deg-C (shutdown)
Sensor B Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 57.5 deg-C
Sensor A Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 57.5 deg-C
Warning level.......: 69.0 deg-C
Shutdown level......: 79.0 deg-C
I'm struggling with the same question. But after separating "want"s and "need"s the answer is yes.Are these switches still a good value buy in 2022 / 2023?
Thanks for the thoughts, it's very hard to argue with $100 that's for sure and if it lasts 5 years I'd consider that amazing value so long as the running costs aren't drastically higher. Hopefully the one I order doesn't end up being the beat up one that's been abused.I'm struggling with the same question. But after separating "want"s and "need"s the answer is yes.
- high quality
- 1gbe is (still) fast enough to stream multiple 4k streams (I mean remuxed UHD disc quality, not the netflix stuff)
- good documentation, the official and the in official by fohdeesha (I always mistype that name ._.) and other forum members
- free firmware updates (you need a ruckus account)
IPv6 Is a Total Nightmare — This is WhySo FiOS finally turned on IPv6 to my house within the last few weeks.
If there's a way to get rid of the transit network, I'm all ears, I feel like it causes me more problems than it's worth.
Part of why I'm doing this is a learning exercise. The other part is I'm trying to figure out whether or not I can solve some issues I've been experiencing with NAT and some games. I don't actually have very high hopes that the games support IPv6, but on the off chance they do it could alleviate some spouse related annoyances.