You're right. The product page of the item I ordered does. However they are now getting a negative review for someone else for the same exact thing.
I'll start looking for a 2 pin to 3 pin cable.
Topton Jasper Lake Quad i225V Mini PC Report
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I'll start looking for a 2 pin to 3 pin cable.
For bare die, you should not use thermal pads. The thermal density of a CPU is too high.
Heat transfer is a function of distance, double the gap and it halves the efficiency. So even if the pad is 2x the W/mK of paste, the distance the heat has to travel is about 10x (0.05mm vs. 0.5mm), so the paste will have ~5x better thermal efficiency than the pad.
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I searched again, as even CWWK mention the header and I found it in the photo of the PDF. It is on the bottom side (CPU side) of the board: CFAN1. More or less below the 4 pin 12V connector.
I ordered the 6 port J6413 Topton/CWWK firewall on October 28th (shipped 31st), and it arrived in British Columbia on my doorstep on November 11th. I needed to bug Topton customer service a couple of times since they seemed to take forever to ship the device. Once shipped it was quite quick except for having the device stuck at Canadian customs for 5 days!
Version: Barebones J6413 version
paid around $292CAD ($220USD) all included
So far I have opened the appliance up and replaced the thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) and the thermal pads (K5-Pro Viscous Thermal Pads)
Notes:
- no gap between the CPU and copper cooler as found in some other models!
Photos below
Version: Barebones J6413 version
paid around $292CAD ($220USD) all included
So far I have opened the appliance up and replaced the thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) and the thermal pads (K5-Pro Viscous Thermal Pads)
Notes:
- no gap between the CPU and copper cooler as found in some other models!
Photos below
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Thanks for posting all of that but would you mind taking the "sepia" filter off the photos of the motherboard. Sepia has no place in photos expressing aspects of a technical nature. The same goes for the external shots, yes they are the perfect composition for arty type photos but not technical ones. The actual front photo has less information than a straight-on shot; we all know what the top of the case looks like, that part has no new info to express.
Yes, I applied thermal pads on my second unit instead of filing down the stand-offs. Only because I already had some sitting around in a draw and thought why not try that first before going down the same road as my first OPNsence router and filing down the stand-offs.
What I can say about thermal pads is that it fix the small gap I had on my second unit. I still did the same things like polished the coper thermal block and wet and dry sanded to remove the paint etc.. The temps are much the same as my first unit, if not slightly better.. I did apply a tiny smear of arctic silver to both side of the thermal pads, just enought to wet the surfaces to keep them in place when putting the unit back together. I've been running this unit since late September with the thermal pads in place. Very happy with the results and wont be needing to do any modifications.
For those getting boxes, especially the types with few info in the thread so far (like J6412, j6413): could you quickly plug a "kill a watt" or similar between box and wall and measure power consumption?
I guess most people who want to build such a smaller FW router are focussed on that aspect especially with rising energy cost in a lot of parts of the world.
I guess most people who want to build such a smaller FW router are focussed on that aspect especially with rising energy cost in a lot of parts of the world.
To be more clear about the thermal pads, the IC Graphite pads are about 0.2mm thick and designed for CPU cooling, unlike silicone pads that most people think of. They work best between a CPU heatspreader and cooler, with a decent amount of pressure. Even at 35 W/mK, they still don't work as well as cheap paste (with no gap), but If it works, it works.
I had a bunch of shims and silicone pads left over from some GPU cooling mods, so decided to stick them on the i225 chips and the backside of the VRM. The pads used on the i225's were ~2mm thick, not great but better than an air gap. Also glued some tiny heatsinks to the inductors on the top side, because why not
I had a bunch of shims and silicone pads left over from some GPU cooling mods, so decided to stick them on the i225 chips and the backside of the VRM. The pads used on the i225's were ~2mm thick, not great but better than an air gap. Also glued some tiny heatsinks to the inductors on the top side, because why not
Woohoo,,,finally my Topton N5105 v4 unit is here..after almost 3 weeks of waiting.
First thing i did unbox it and tear it apart to check the gap ahh. It seems there's a small gap but not that bad.
Then i removed the copper block and appliedTF9 thermal paste instead of the crap thermal paste used by the factory then cleaned the CPU and applied TF9 TM also.
Temp seems fine for now, around 45c on idle while room temp is around 26C. And around 65-70 under stress test with 18W PL2.
Although i tried to find the auto power on in bios setting but i couldn't find it.
edit: its v4 with usb type c not v3.
First thing i did unbox it and tear it apart to check the gap ahh. It seems there's a small gap but not that bad.
Then i removed the copper block and appliedTF9 thermal paste instead of the crap thermal paste used by the factory then cleaned the CPU and applied TF9 TM also.
Temp seems fine for now, around 45c on idle while room temp is around 26C. And around 65-70 under stress test with 18W PL2.
Although i tried to find the auto power on in bios setting but i couldn't find it.
edit: its v4 with usb type c not v3.
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On mine it is hidden under the system / power monitor section. I think under the advanced tab.
Well..sadly the temps on opnsense idle is not that good, its staying around 48-50c at 0.3-1% Cpu usage. even though in windows it was running around 42-45c and high 60c at 18w full load.
I guess the standoffs need some filling, will sanding paper be enough to filling them down? or should i keep it as it is.
as i remember when running opnsense and pfsense on laptop till the box arrives. Pfsense ran around 5-6c cooler while running pfblockerNG for some reason...
I guess the standoffs need some filling, will sanding paper be enough to filling them down? or should i keep it as it is.
as i remember when running opnsense and pfsense on laptop till the box arrives. Pfsense ran around 5-6c cooler while running pfblockerNG for some reason...
I already repaste it, these temps after using high quality paste not the factory applied one.
I've got the J6413 version. I haven't done anything in the Bios. I have replaced the thermal paste and thermal pads. I installed a 2.5" 870 SATA SSD and OPNSENSE shows temps 39-40 degreesHello! Finally got my J6412 from CWWK. The seller asked if I need a WiFi free of charge, of course I got it, but I don’t think I ever will use it on that box.
Got a second hand msata 850 EVO (that disks are MLC and basically last forever), found old DDR4 from old laptops, 8+4 DDR4 2400 ADATA and Samsung. System is ready. Installed OPNSense and.. fast forward of two hours learning curve to get system work
So, about temperature, the system show 56c idle and 60c on 1nic load 60mb/s download. If a touch the box, it’s pretty damn warm. I wonder if I can put it in closed space box, where are all my cables…
I did not tune anything, did not messed with c-states or anything like that, but i think that i need to get temperatures down to 40s, any ideas?
If your running OPNsense bare metal then add these to your Tuneables: (System > Settings > Tuneables)
Just be aware that setting p-states to 100 will lock the CPU to 800MHz.
99 = 800-1600MHz
I have mine set to 85, which is about 800-2200MHz on the N5100.
The default setting is 50, which for me was about 2100-2800.
If you want to enable C-states in Opnsense Tunables :
If you do enable C3, the CPU will downclock to 800MHz at idle, no matter what p-state setting is used.
I haven't had any issues with C3 enabled but YRMV.
You can also check PCIe ASPM support in bios. Should be under chipset > PCH > PCIe root ports (or something like that)
Setting each port to ASPM Auto should save a couple watts. I haven't experienced any issues with it enabled.
99 = 800-1600MHz
I have mine set to 85, which is about 800-2200MHz on the N5100.
The default setting is 50, which for me was about 2100-2800.
If you want to enable C-states in Opnsense Tunables :
hw.acpi.cpu.cx_lowest = C3If you do enable C3, the CPU will downclock to 800MHz at idle, no matter what p-state setting is used.
I haven't had any issues with C3 enabled but YRMV.
You can also check PCIe ASPM support in bios. Should be under chipset > PCH > PCIe root ports (or something like that)
Setting each port to ASPM Auto should save a couple watts. I haven't experienced any issues with it enabled.
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