Quanta LB4M 48-Port Gigabit Switch Discussion

[aj84]

How did you flash - webui or cli?
Not sure about that, but I believe the settings are NOT included in the image. So perhaps the switch tries to apply your saved config (created with the previous image-version) after booting the routing image...and possibly fails there. Which image did you use before flashing?

Looking at my notes: the routing image comes with all ports shutdown (adminmode = disabled) and only the management-port will pull a IP address utilitizing DHCP (in-band ip connectivity is protocol "none" = static ip without any ip address set/configured). Try to connect the management port to your router (which hopefully has a DHCP Server running)...

Do you have a serial console cable? (You could easy clear the config from bootmenu or switch to the other image slot.)

 

[Fritz]

Thanks. I'll give it a go. Still have a good image so all is not lost. Do you know if the router image has a web GUI ?

 

[aj84]

Yes, the routing image has a web GUI.

 

[Fritz]

Great.

 

[Fritz]

Pardon me for revealing my ignorance.

1. The new switch arrived. I can access the web GUI via the management port but I can't set the ip address, I get a "operation failed message. Also, DHCP is not an option, None is the only option. This would be ok if I could set an ip.

2. The switch I loaded the routing image on from here isn't pulling an ip from the management port or in band. How should I proceed?

Thanks

 

[aj84]

I would be happy to help you, but sadly you don't answer my questions. That way it's hard to guess what is going wrong...

2. The switch I loaded the routing image on from here isn't pulling an ip from the management port or in band. How should I proceed?

1) Power off the switch
2) Connect a serial cable to the rj45 console port, launch PuTTY or Microsoft Hyperterminal (seems to be only included in older Windows Versions), connect using COM-Port of the serial cable and these serial settings: 9600bps, 8bits, NO FlowControl, 1 StopBits, NO Parity, (no hardware flow control!)
3) Power on the switch...wait and watch the boot messages (PuTTY / HyperTerminal). Copy everything to clipboard and post it here.

1. The new switch arrived. I can access the web GUI via the management port but I can't set the ip address, I get a "operation failed message. Also, DHCP is not an option, None is the only option. This would be ok if I could set an ip.

Is this the one you bought with preinstalled routing image?
How do you try to change the ip address? (WebUI or CLI? if the latter: which commands did you use?)
Please connect using telnet (or serial console) and post the output of these commands:
show version
show bootvar
show network
show serviceport
network protocol ?
network parms ?
serviceport protocol ?
serviceport ip ?

 

[Fritz]

I'm in. Most of the commands in the manual don't work.

Show network does and the IP is the same as it was before so maybe all I need to do is activate the ports?

Can you tell me how to turn the ports on? Thanks.

 

[aj84]

After login on CLI:
enable
configure
no shutdown all
exit

show port all <--- check port status (column: admin mode)
write memory <---- to save your changes to flash

 

[Fritz]

Thank you , sir. All ports are now on.

I cleared the config in hope getting the ports on and when I did I nuked the ip info. Can you tell me how to put it back in?

 

[Fritz]

I managed to get into the web interface via the management port on this one to but get a "Operation Failed" error when I try to set a IP address. And like the other one, DCHP is not an option in the pull down.

 

[Fritz]

Whew, somehow I managed to get DHCP working and then successfully set a static IP once in the in band GUI. Interesting that you can't set network parms while connect via the management port.

Now I have 2 more to pull my hair out over. Should have taken notes while I was groping in the dark.

 

[aj84]

Setting static IP for in-band ip connectivity...after login on CLI:
enable
network protocol none
network parms <IP> <Subnet-Mask> <Gateway>
network parms 192.168.111.111 255.255.255.0 192.168.111.1
network mgmt_vlan 1

show network <--- view current in-band ip connectivity settings
write memory <---- to save your changes to flash

 

[Fritz]

Thanks a million, really appreciate it.

I've taken notes (Your help and what my feeble mind remembers) so the other 2 should be a piece of cake. The one I struggled with all day is now carrying this message to the board.

Just did the other 2. Makes a big difference when you know how.

 

[BackupProphet]

I've not started flashing yet as I'm waiting for a serial cable I bought on Ebay. My plan is to flash with CLI. But I really want to flash it today. I don't need the serial cable for a successful firmware upgrade?

 

[aj84]

To flash you basically only need WebUI/Telnet/SSH access (one of them) and - at least if you flash via CLI - a PC running TFTP Server as image-source (WebUI might allow you uploading the image via http - haven't tried that). But if the switch doesn't come back afterwards (e.g. if it doesn't pull a IP by DHCP) it is time to use the serial cable... (using serial cable you could switch to the other image slot / delete config / examine boot problems / examine current switch config...)

After Fritz's experience: It might be a good idea to reset the switch to factory defaults, powercycle the switch and afterwards start flashing. That way there couldn't be any problems with old config (saved in flash) + the newly flashed image. (Here comes another benefit of the serial cable: after factory reset / after flashing you don't need to worry about ip connectivity of the switch...you simply connect using serial cable and the whole switch config doesn't matter -> you'll have access to the CLI)

 

[Fritz]

I flashed mine via the web interface which worked just fine. Problem was gaining access to the switch after the flash. For this you need the serial cable and, in my case, a little help from the forum.

 

[RKDigital]

Guys,

I just received and have successfully flashed a brand new "used" LB4M from Ebay, of course with all of your posts. One thing I would like to bring to the moderators is that we need to create some "Stickies" for some of the basic information on how to properly flash, get ports working, beginning steps, etc. I tried to make sure I documented everything that I did during the process to help with posting those types of instructions.

Next, and my formost question, who has tried what fans, and I mean specifically exact brand and model numbers, in there cases, and power supplies?? I am working on compiling an exact list of what is available (as I have purchased many different fans from many different vendors over the years) and I want to make sure that we meet the quality and sound levels that are mostly acceptable by most people in their home. Grant it that I have way too much equipment in my basement equipment room and I have to run separate air conditioning just to keep things cool, I really want to drop some sound levels and I am on the quest of finding the right fans. I have made the mistake of just buying the cheapest ones out there that fit, and have equipment fail 6 months to two years later, when fans should last literally at least 5 to 7 years of continuous use. Given that almost all of the LB4M's on the market are used, they already have several years of use on them, and I want mine to last until I find a suitable upgrade several years down the road. So I'm on the quest of price vs. quality vs. sound levels, and I am determined to find the best deal out there.

So if everyone could either send me a message, or reply, I will compile the specifications from the manufactures (along with my industry knowledge), and post a working spreadsheet with everything one would need to know to make an informed decision as to what works best as replacements.

 

[PGlover]

Guys,

I just received and have successfully flashed a brand new "used" LB4M from Ebay, of course with all of your posts. One thing I would like to bring to the moderators is that we need to create some "Stickies" for some of the basic information on how to properly flash, get ports working, beginning steps, etc. I tried to make sure I documented everything that I did during the process to help with posting those types of instructions.

Next, and my formost question, who has tried what fans, and I mean specifically exact brand and model numbers, in there cases, and power supplies?? I am working on compiling an exact list of what is available (as I have purchased many different fans from many different vendors over the years) and I want to make sure that we meet the quality and sound levels that are mostly acceptable by most people in their home. Grant it that I have way too much equipment in my basement equipment room and I have to run separate air conditioning just to keep things cool, I really want to drop some sound levels and I am on the quest of finding the right fans. I have made the mistake of just buying the cheapest ones out there that fit, and have equipment fail 6 months to two years later, when fans should last literally at least 5 to 7 years of continuous use. Given that almost all of the LB4M's on the market are used, they already have several years of use on them, and I want mine to last until I find a suitable upgrade several years down the road. So I'm on the quest of price vs. quality vs. sound levels, and I am determined to find the best deal out there.

So if everyone could either send me a message, or reply, I will compile the specifications from the manufactures (along with my industry knowledge), and post a working spreadsheet with everything one would need to know to make an informed decision as to what works best as replacements.

Can you please post your detailed steps used to flash the LB4M with new firmware.

 

[PGlover]

Guys,

I just received and have successfully flashed a brand new "used" LB4M from Ebay, of course with all of your posts. One thing I would like to bring to the moderators is that we need to create some "Stickies" for some of the basic information on how to properly flash, get ports working, beginning steps, etc. I tried to make sure I documented everything that I did during the process to help with posting those types of instructions.

Next, and my formost question, who has tried what fans, and I mean specifically exact brand and model numbers, in there cases, and power supplies?? I am working on compiling an exact list of what is available (as I have purchased many different fans from many different vendors over the years) and I want to make sure that we meet the quality and sound levels that are mostly acceptable by most people in their home. Grant it that I have way too much equipment in my basement equipment room and I have to run separate air conditioning just to keep things cool, I really want to drop some sound levels and I am on the quest of finding the right fans. I have made the mistake of just buying the cheapest ones out there that fit, and have equipment fail 6 months to two years later, when fans should last literally at least 5 to 7 years of continuous use. Given that almost all of the LB4M's on the market are used, they already have several years of use on them, and I want mine to last until I find a suitable upgrade several years down the road. So I'm on the quest of price vs. quality vs. sound levels, and I am determined to find the best deal out there.

So if everyone could either send me a message, or reply, I will compile the specifications from the manufactures (along with my industry knowledge), and post a working spreadsheet with everything one would need to know to make an informed decision as to what works best as replacements.

Check out this post by me. I have been using the Noctua Low-Noise Adaptors and the new Delta fans for over a year and no problems yet.

Quanta LB4M 48-Port Gigabit Switch Discussion

 

[rEd2k]

Guys,

I just received and have successfully flashed a brand new "used" LB4M from Ebay, of course with all of your posts. One thing I would like to bring to the moderators is that we need to create some "Stickies" for some of the basic information on how to properly flash, get ports working, beginning steps, etc. I tried to make sure I documented everything that I did during the process to help with posting those types of instructions.

Next, and my formost question, who has tried what fans, and I mean specifically exact brand and model numbers, in there cases, and power supplies?? I am working on compiling an exact list of what is available (as I have purchased many different fans from many different vendors over the years) and I want to make sure that we meet the quality and sound levels that are mostly acceptable by most people in their home. Grant it that I have way too much equipment in my basement equipment room and I have to run separate air conditioning just to keep things cool, I really want to drop some sound levels and I am on the quest of finding the right fans. I have made the mistake of just buying the cheapest ones out there that fit, and have equipment fail 6 months to two years later, when fans should last literally at least 5 to 7 years of continuous use. Given that almost all of the LB4M's on the market are used, they already have several years of use on them, and I want mine to last until I find a suitable upgrade several years down the road. So I'm on the quest of price vs. quality vs. sound levels, and I am determined to find the best deal out there.

So if everyone could either send me a message, or reply, I will compile the specifications from the manufactures (along with my industry knowledge), and post a working spreadsheet with everything one would need to know to make an informed decision as to what works best as replacements.

I replaced all my fans (including the psu ones which did require pin re-wiring) with 40mm Noctua fans which were a little thin @ 10mm depth/thickness but they still work great, they are super silent. The temps are higher though, around 50-55 degrees compared to 37-45 with the original fans at the usual jet engine speed, but it hasn't affected performance in any way as far as I can tell. My switch sits on its ass end currently and I found that if you are able to leave the switch flat (as intended and designed) you will have even lower temps around 43-47 degrees lol using all Noctua fans. I have also tried the Noctua in-line fan speed limiters on the original fans and they did work as intended but the Noctua fans do a much better job of staying quiet and air flow/pressure was the same if not better as temps are slighty lower than the fan limiters I used. One more thing to note is that the psu reports that it has failed but it's just because the fan speed is so much slower, and at times it reports it's functional, this is normal, so no worries. Hope that helps