Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching)

[Jorge Perez]

That depends on how you define 'support' I suppose. In a home LAN/homelab environment, the most useful support would be for the ICX to act as a DHCPv6-PD client to get a prefix from the ISP and then allocate subnets from that prefix to the VLANs it is managing. As best I can tell the ICX software has no ability to do that.

The ICX DHCPv6 server can delegate prefixes though, and the DHCPv6 relay is able to do some sort of notifications based on PD messages passing through.

IPv6-PD is all they can do, and they require proper IPv6 support.
So they do not work with ATTs equipment which receives a /60 and hands out /64s.

 

[epicurean]

I am having 2 particular issues with regards to my so far trusty ICX6450-48OP. Hopefully forumers here can advise me as such
1) How do you remove a LAN to SFP+ adapter from the 10GB ports without ripping the thing apart? I dont want to damage the port, but I cant seem to remove the adapter

2) In recent times, one of the ports to a dahua VTO video door seems to cease it connection with no power to the port. ( no blinking lights). When I unplug and replug the cat 6 cable back in, both ports blink simultaneously for a while. AFter a few repeated tries, its seems to be ok. But within the hour, it goes off again. Does not matter which port I use.

Any clues?

 

[LodeRunner]

I am having 2 particular issues with regards to my so far trusty ICX6450-48OP. Hopefully forumers here can advise me as such
1) How do you remove a LAN to SFP+ adapter from the 10GB ports without ripping the thing apart? I dont want to damage the port, but I cant seem to remove the adapter

After removing the RJ-45 cable, you should be able to pull the SFP out, no problem. There's a little locking bit that you need to swing out that should pop the SFP loose, then you just slide it out. The gold colored part of the SFPs I use is the latch:

 

[epicurean]

So I should flip the latch UP whilst trying to remove the adapter?

 

[LodeRunner]

Flipping the latch (up or down depends on the port orientation). But yes, once the latch releases it should allow the the SFP to slide free.

 

[epicurean]

After removing the RJ-45 cable, you should be able to pull the SFP out, no problem. There's a little locking bit that you need to swing out that should pop the SFP loose, then you just slide it out. The gold colored part of the SFPs I use is the latch:View attachment 26527

Unfortunately, the adapter is still stuck and not moving, even after I moved the latch out. My adapter is the Wiltek SFP-10G-T if it makes any difference

 

[klui]

Either your SFP cage or transceiver latch may be damaged and not allowing the latch to disengage. It should disengage very easily. See

Designs are all pretty much the same. You could probably get a small screwdriver and gently push the bottom portion that moves inward to help it disengage. But if the metal in the cage is bent too much, maybe from someone pulling on a transceiver without disengaging the latch then I can see how the retaining clip could be bent enough to prevent normal disengagement.

Also try using this technique SFP removal with Fibers Connected

 

[LodeRunner]

You could probably get a small screwdriver and gently push the bottom portion that moves inward to help it disengage. But if the metal in the cage is bent too much, maybe from someone pulling on a transceiver without disengaging the latch then I can see how the retaining clip could be bent enough to prevent normal disengagement.

Also try using this technique SFP removal with Fibers Connected

Tiny flat-tip screwdriver was going to be my next suggestion. I had a DAC that wouldn't release all the way; had to pull the tab as far as it would go, then use a screwdriver to actuate the release lever far enough to get it out without breaking anything.

 

[Harmony]

Can someone guide me through creating a VLAN ID 1002 for few different ports that I will be trunked into another router for VPN access. Not sure what commands to use on the 6450

Currently done

Current configuration:
!
ver 08.0.30uT313
!
stack unit 1
  module 1 icx6450-24p-poe-port-management-module
  module 2 icx6450-sfp-plus-4port-40g-module
  no legacy-inline-power
!
!
!
!
vlan 1 name DEFAULT-VLAN by port
 router-interface ve 1
!
vlan 1002 name VPN by port
 tagged ethe 1/1/3

 

[audiobahn]

Unfortunately, the adapter is still stuck and not moving, even after I moved the latch out. My adapter is the Wiltek SFP-10G-T if it makes any difference

Have you managed to find a solution for this? I just bought a used 7150-C12P and I'm finding the exact same problem. There's two optical SFPs which are not budging to get out. Ideally I want to replace them with ethernet ones but really don't know how to remove them without damaging the port. Is there a way to find out what SFPs are installed and if they work as they should? Unfortunately I don't have an optical setup to test it.

 

[audiobahn]

Have you managed to find a solution for this? I just bought a used 7150-C12P and I'm finding the exact same problem. There's two optical SFPs which are not budging to get out. Ideally I want to replace them with ethernet ones but really don't know how to remove them without damaging the port. Is there a way to find out what SFPs are installed and if they work as they should? Unfortunately I don't have an optical setup to test it.

UPDATE: I've finally managed to remove them so sharing my experience in case someone needs it in the future.

I ended up using a retractable craft knife. Use the sharp end of the blade to get between the clip and the SFP module (as per the photo) and push the blade in, a little click and the SFP comes straight out.

The previous owner must have been a savage as they clearly tried all no-no methods, including levering it with a screwdriver and using pliers! The evidence is on the marks on the switch and the fact one of the clips is completely bend inside! Now I need to get some new 10G RJ45 SFPs to test the ports before declaring this a success purchase. Any recommendations?

 

[epicurean]

UPDATE: I've finally managed to remove them so sharing my experience in case someone needs it in the future.

I ended up using a retractable craft knife. Use the sharp end of the blade to get between the clip and the SFP module (as per the photo) and push the blade in, a little click and the SFP comes straight out.

The previous owner must have been a savage as they clearly tried all no-no methods, including levering it with a screwdriver and using pliers! The evidence is on the marks on the switch and the fact one of the clips is completely bend inside! Now I need to get some new 10G RJ45 SFPs to test the ports before declaring this a success purchase. Any recommendations?

Thanks!.Wow, I gotta try that craft knife trick. Almost in despair that I cannot get a simple adapter module out of the switch

 

[zrail2]

I recently decided to flip my ICX-6450-24 to the back of my rack to simplify some cable management. That part went well, but now I have a hot switch that's trying to pull air from the back of a crowded cabinet and it's hovering around 70C.

I know it's physically possible to flip the fan around where it sits, but is that going to provide adequate air flow? Or is there a way to mount it such that it blows out the side?

Update: I started reading the thread from the beginning and found the answer to my question:https://forums.servethehome.com/ind...gbe-40gbe-switching.21107/page-35#post-205200

In sum: yes just reversing the fan orientation is fine.

 

[audiobahn]

Thanks!.Wow, I gotta try that craft knife trick. Almost in despair that I cannot get a simple adapter module out of the switch

No problem. It really doesn't help that they are placed back to back so you have extremely limited space to work with. Open the latch and try pulling it out as you would normally do. It'll come up about 1mm which is just enough to see the little notch and put the blade in, lots of light helps. Once you get it to click it comes out VERY easy. Good luck.

 

[epicurean]

No problem. It really doesn't help that they are placed back to back so you have extremely limited space to work with. Open the latch and try pulling it out as you would normally do. It'll come up about 1mm which is just enough to see the little notch and put the blade in, lots of light helps. Once you get it to click it comes out VERY easy. Good luck.

You Sir are a life saver. The craft knife trick worked for me. Much thanks!

 

[audiobahn]

You Sir are a life saver. The craft knife trick worked for me. Much thanks!

Fantastic! Great to hear. Certainly a new life skill acquired for both of us. Let's hope we don't need it again.

 

[audiobahn]

Just a sanity question as I'm getting to know my new router...

All ports seem to work fine but the LED of port 1/1/11 was solid amber instead of solid green. I looked into it further and it seemed to sync as expected at 1Gbit and work fine however it showed 1 CRC error. After resetting / clearing its log the light went back to green and it doesn't seem to have any further problems.

So is that it? Problem fixed? Is it default behaviour to "latch" on Orange until the log is cleared, even if there's no issues?

 

[Jason Antes]

I recently decided to flip my ICX-6450-24 to the back of my rack to simplify some cable management. That part went well, but now I have a hot switch that's trying to pull air from the back of a crowded cabinet and it's hovering around 70C.

I know it's physically possible to flip the fan around where it sits, but is that going to provide adequate air flow? Or is there a way to mount it such that it blows out the side?

Update: I started reading the thread from the beginning and found the answer to my question:https://forums.servethehome.com/ind...gbe-40gbe-switching.21107/page-35#post-205200

In sum: yes just reversing the fan orientation is fine.

My switch has the port exhaust fans and I have a plenum for it to get fresh air from the front to the switch.

 

[tillburn]

I need some config advice.

I have a 7250 flashed, licensed, racked up with UPS + cable modem, POE wifi AP + home office all wired up working fine.
I have a 6610 flashed, licensed, racked up with UPS + NAS, Disk shelf, Hypervisor machines, misc servers, Starlink and POE wifi AP in the shop.

Physically like this: Home office, 6610 1/3/1 mm-LC OM4 fiber--------------------------------------> Shop, 7250 1/2/1 mm-LC OM4 fiber.

I only have the single mm-LC 100 meter fiber cable linking the shop to the office.

7250/48p is 10.10.100.2
6610/48p is 10.10.100.3

Can access both switches via ssh on the network.

Both switches have vlans configured this way:

vlan 1 name DEFAULT-VLAN by port
router-interface ve 1

vlan 10 name management by port
vlan 20 name servers by port
vlan 30 name IOT by port
vlan 40 name sec_cam by port
vlan 50 name cablenet by port
vlan 51 name starlink by port
vlan 777 name native by port

I would like to use vlans to tunnel the cable modem to the rack in the shop, host either a physical or VM instance of pfsense and divide up the network with vlans to keep things more secure. Setting up pfsense with dual wan isn't a problem, but tunnelling the cable modem to the shop is a hurdle I need to clear.

I have two EnGenius EWS357AP AP's that do have mesh, but I haven't been impressed with it's bandwidth or reliability (it's disabled). I intend to run both AP's with multiple SSIDs, tagging SSID's and using a management vlan to control them. I was able to pull that fiber through the electrical conduit from the house to the shop. I can't pull any more fiber through that conduit, it's full I was lucky to get this one cable through, took 3 attempts and lots of lube...

At first I thought I could stack them, run them as a single physical switch with one linear fiber connection, but then I found out that doesn't work because they aren't the same physical switch and don't have the same firmware... Can't buy another 7250 because the price is through the roof STH members must have gobbled up most of them

I very much want to do this myself where I am stuck is finding examples using brocades terms/commands and or translating cisco to brocade T Henry's videos are helpful, but vlans, VE's etc. are tripping me up. I read Kapone's post (page 75ish) in this thread and it seems similar to what I want to do but I have the extra element of having two switches, two locations and vlans.

When I add the physical ports to the vlans, wr mem on the 6610 in the shop and then do the same for the 7250 in the office I lose connection between the two. So clearly I am missing steps for a route, not adding the vlans to the port(s) on the switch(s) or something else that isn't jumping out at me.

Suggestions, pointers, anyone willing to translate above to a check list of things to do to get up and running I would appreciate it!

 

[AllenB]

Hi all, I've got a multigig question -- have searched this thread and found some partial answers, but nothing complete. Perhaps this will be of use to others.

I'm using an ICX7250-24p as my home switch. Love it. Got a server and two workstations on 10GbE, some APs on PoE, and then various other connections.

Now that faster Internet speeds are available, I'm looking at getting a DOCSIS modem with a 2.5GbE port. And that's where the trouble starts.

It appears that 2.5/5 GbE support was never added to the ICX7250, even in the latest 9.0.x releases. Is that correct? And if so, it strongly implies that using a "basic" multigig SFP+ adapter won't help, either.

I've seen references to one or more SFP+ to copper adapters which can handle the data rate conversion from 2.5/5.0 to 10 gbps. I've not been able to actually pin down model numbers, or find a search term that hits these.

So, is there a solution for getting 2.5 GbE into an ICX7250? I'd prefer to avoid a 2nd switch. The fallback is to put a 2.5GbE NIC into the server but that means losing all Internet connectivity if it goes down.

Thanks,
Allen