Topton Jasper Lake Quad i225V Mini PC Report

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burtal

Active Member
Jul 7, 2022
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Got my Topton V2 with the V3 225-B3 NICs a while ago. When I put Windows on it and ran some stress test, it went from 50c idle to 80c straight away. Repasting with NT-H1 paste didn't help - so I cleaned off the black varnish under the copper heatsink block, polished all surfaces and put a couple of layers of graphite based thermal pads from Innovation Cooling - cut to size. I also put some NT-H1 between the block and the case.

You can see from the silver area in the pic below where the varnish was sanded off - I tested the copper heatsink block with a hair dryer, heating it for 5~10 minutes and verifying that the block itself was cool and the case was getting steadily warmer - so it definitely wasn't a problem with the
block-to-case interface

Idle temps improved from 50c to 45c and load temps were ~ 70c. I used BurnInTest from Passmark as a quick and dirty solution for testing.

Thinking that I could do better - took a careful look and I found that the copper block was tilted and hence one side (in green) actually made good contact with the CPU but the other one (marked in blue) was tilted down and hence there was much less pressure on the SOC/PCH == bad heat transfer.

View attachment 24869


I could have taken the whole copper assembly out and sanded the block or the underlying surface down - but instead got some copper shims and put a 0.5mm shim on one side and a 0.3mm shim on the other.

View attachment 24870

If you're afraid of putting the shims on the CPU directly - after all there is no integrated heat spreader and you can easily crack the CPU if you put too thick a shim or use too much pressure - you can put the shims on the copper heatsink block

View attachment 24871


My temps are now 30c idle and 50c under load, so I think that is as good as result as I can get with this CPU and case ...

told you guys ... lap and gap :) fixes 90% of thermal issues on this machines.
The copper block is not plain .... mine was concave on the cpu part and convex on the case part

yeah....shims have the risck of puuting to much presure on cpu ... that is why i think carefully and slowly grinding the mobo standoffs. In the way you can control when CPU touches the copper gently, grind a bit ..check .. grind a bit check ... eventualy the cpu will touch the copper with less risc of to much pressure

bad part is that you cannot sand down equaly the case .... so you might end up screwing the plane between the copper and case even more.
also the more you grind the case ... the larger the cpu gap becomes if you dont fix it by grinding the standoffs or shims
 

Mike9474593

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Aug 5, 2022
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I can confirm this unit is not the only one with the gap problem. I have a Qotom J4125 unit, it was always running a bit hot (running Opnsense), about 54° in ilde. I checked it and it has a nice gap between the aluminum block (ugh) and the CPU. Added a 0.3mm shim and now it is about 15-20° cooler, about 35° in ilde. The board is fixed with 8 screws, four around the cpu and four on the edge. Let's see how it's working...
 
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Jakub

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Oct 16, 2022
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Wonder why the QC is so bad. Figured at least one seller would step in and up their QC from a business perspective.
 

hmw

Active Member
Apr 29, 2019
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I'd rather mill up a new copper block than grind off the stand-offs!
LOL I totally agree - it's easier to do a 0.2mm + 0.3mm shim and then move to a 0.3mm+0.4mm shim if necessary - you cannot say the same about grinding the standoffs - too much work and you cannot correct if something goes wrong

Also - because the mounting is such low tension/pressure, there's no sense in lapping the surfaces and making them mirror smooth - I just polished with 320/600/800 grit.

There's also no sense in using some exotic thermal paste - just a thin layer of anything reasonably good like NT-H1 or MX-5 is enough
 

hmw

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Apr 29, 2019
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dums

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Aug 14, 2022
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LOL I totally agree - it's easier to do a 0.2mm + 0.3mm shim and then move to a 0.3mm+0.4mm shim if necessary - you cannot say the same about grinding the standoffs - too much work and you cannot correct if something goes wrong
Each shim adds paste-copper-paste layer with some extra mess + thermal performance penalty. Also I suppose in worst case scenario standoffs can be easily replaced.
 
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burtal

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Jul 7, 2022
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if you can mill a new block ... by all means that is the best solution, but not all of us have access to that ...

if you have access to a mill sky is the limit ... you can mill the case and make a custom bigger cooper block .

yes lapping to a mirror finish is not necessary but the plane corection is ...and to get a almost mirror look you just need about 10 passes on a 1k /2k grit sandpaper ... not much work effort ...


now im still trying to fine tune this .... in current room temps of about 22-23c on full load i see max of 63c, no fans, no nothing, for a full hour .... that is really good in my book .

what i notice is that the freq starts at 2.7-2.75 ghz all cores for 128 seconds (i set it in the bios) but then they start to drop to the 2.5ghz where they stabilize.

i put the PL1 to 20w and PL2 to 25w .... and no power or theermal limits where tripped package power never went above 20w .... but i still get a down clock....

what would be nice if it will boost to max all untill it reaches the thermal limit....

anyway bioses are crap and most of the settings do not apply anyway


1666179633578.png
 
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hmw

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Apr 29, 2019
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what i notice is that the freq starts at 2.7-2.75 ghz all cores for 128 seconds (i set it in the bios) but then they start to drop to the 2.5ghz where they stabilize.

That is strange. The 4 core turbo multiplier is 28 which means you should get sustained 28 x 99.784 = 2793.952 MHz unless the SOC trips on power or thermal limits.

For example here's a TS Bench 8GB run on my system after 1 minute - just after a run with 120M and another with 960M to build up some heat. I've let the system run for quite some time and it's been consistent at the 28x multiplier for all 4 cores. (all my BIOS settings for power are default)

a.png

What are your results for the 120M and 960M benchmark runs in ThrottleStop? Does the multiplier stay constant at 28x for all four cores during those runs?

Maybe reset BIOS to default settings (default limits for PL1, PL2, PL3, PL4 and Turbo Performance) and try again?
 

burtal

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Jul 7, 2022
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for some reason in TS bench is not going to 28x or 29x .... is just capping at 25x .... prime95 is running 28x but the freq varies a lot
1666190005990.png

my bios is also default ... only PL1 is modified to 20w and PL1 time to 128 sec

cause if you leave the default 15w PL1 after the PL1 time is done, it will drop to 15W and in my case it will run at about 2.3-2.4 ghz

im on V103 bios .... default has only 2 PL ...and they are disabled by default :))) . You can activate the PL3 and 4 ...but with them disabled default is 15/25w PL

maybe is silicon lottery :)

im ok with it ... 128sec for full boost all cores should be more then enough for any daily stuff this machine will encountr. so i think ill leave it to 15 w PL1 and 128 Sec PL1 limit
 
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hmw

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Apr 29, 2019
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maybe is silicon lottery :)
That's not how the silicon lottery works. What would happen is that you would get a SoC with higher VID, meaning Vcore gets higher => more heat dissipated. As long as you can sink 30W of thermal load, you shouldn't throttle and therefore maintain the 28x multiplier regardless of whether you have a SoC with higher VID or lower

- What is the power brick you are using for the PC?

- Are both chiplets on the SoC covered by the copper block? It has two screw holes - is any part of the chiplet under this?

- Does changing the Windows power plan from Balanced to High Performance make any difference?
 

newabc

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Jan 20, 2019
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One of the Topton 4-port i226 w/ N6005 barebones is lowed to around $220(link) and I haven't found its major differences to this one(link), except for the later one's case. But its case has no heat pipes, I don't think this case make its price difference higher to $40. And I only found the later one on CWWK's store.
 

GreenAvacado

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Sep 25, 2022
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One of the Topton 4-port i226 w/ N6005 barebones is lowed to around $220(link) and I haven't found its major differences to this one(link), except for the later one's case. But its case has no heat pipes, I don't think this case make its price difference higher to $40. And I only found the later one on CWWK's store.
By the looks of it, it appears it could be cheaper because they skimmed on beefy heatsink with fins but then there is breathing grill on either side for better air circulation. Would be interesting to know if anybody benchmarked thermal performance.
 

Becks0815

Well-Known Member
Oct 15, 2022
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With so many people reading/writing here, I hope I have a chance to get some info about the actual power consumption of the N5105 and the J6412 one (which I just found on page 69 I think). I read something about 11W for the N5105 idle, is that correct, even after some tweaking of the Bios and/or running programs like powerd to reduce the consumption during runtime?

Anyone else has some data about theose two boards (N5105 and J6412), please?
 

Jakub

New Member
Oct 16, 2022
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Topton just released a new two port i226 J4125 for around $130. For those wanting to separate their network controllers (recommended) and run something like Pi-hole this is a great option.

I have a $25 7" IPS display off AliExpress that I use in my closet as my modem and router are connected at the drop. It makes changing my LAN subnet a breeze.

 

Catalin

New Member
Sep 3, 2022
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hi. I have a Topton unit with i225 B3. I saw the "new" i226 units but it is worth the hassle of selling the unit with i225 and get i226 instead? Thanks!