High CPU temps on new AIO build

Discussion in 'DIY Server and Workstation Builds' started by whitey, Sep 15, 2019.

  1. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    TLDR [try to keep this short and sweet]

    Recently rebuilt my NAS setup back to AIO, had gone from 3 node vSphere cluster to two node, made the capacity FreeNAS machine back into a phys dedicated setup (old X8 mobo w/ Xeon X3450 proc). Newer scalable Silver 4116 2.1GHZ chips don't seem to keep up w/ 'the Mrs.' VDI digital post processing photography needs (Heavy Lightroom/Photoshop usage) or it's right on the cusp at times. Believe it may be single threaded issue possibly...long and short is I replaced the phys NAS back to an AIO w/ the intent of putting her back in a higher single threaded clock rate proc.

    Enter the X10SL7-F (deals thread $60), a E3-1270v3 (3.5GHZ), 32 GB memory (had on hand), and added a SNK-P0046B passive heatsink as suggested in the mobo guide, always lean towards a active but the one I HAD ordered using the SM heatsink ref site mis-lead me and it did not fit this mobo (SNK-P0046A4). End-state is that w/ only a FreeNAS AIO I was sitting at 62-69C and now with her VDI sess I am hitting 88-92C, even tripped sensor for high temp beeps a couple times. Gear is in a Norco 2212, 4 noctua fans (bad mistake here LONG ago when I didn't know any better, need higher CFM/static press blah blah). Of course w/ case top off it cools right down (damn you lame static pressure and notcua fans, I love and hate you but mostly hate you).

    Remedies...shall I replace the four 80mm Noctua's on the fanwall, add a small fan over the passive CPU heatsink (got one more 4 pin header on mobo free), get another 'proper active but fits this mobo/2U chassis' heatsink (could have SWORE I had a nice Intel stock active cooler when I had 3x E3 systems about 5 years ago, can't find PN now but will go hunting), or something else (AKA get a SM 826/846 chassis and be rid of the last Norco straggler HAH)?

    Appreciate the weigh-in, thanks and kind regards, whitey
     
    #1
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  2. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Ugggh. facepalm moment, I JUST realized now why my original SNK-P0046A4 active heatsink I ordered would not fit...the backing plate for the passive mount was already on there (foxconn), should have jumped out at me as when I ordered my passive SNK-P0046B heatsink and went to install I noticed the backing plate was already installed and I did not have to use the one that came with the passive SNK-P0046B heatsink I ordered when I 'thought I had a incompat orig active heatsink. FML

    Bet if I take that backing plate off the SNK-P0046A4 active with push pins will fit/work correct? SMFH

    DOH!

    Goes to sit in corner with dunce hat on.

    EDIT: The noctua NF-R8 PWN fans I have in that norco 2212 still suck so I should probably source four San Ace/Nidec 80mm fans to replace those. Any suggestions for good deals out on ebay for validated solid fans that I can simply attach to the midplane norco fan wall would be appreciated it anyone knows that offhand.

    ~whitey
     
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  3. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Just cleaned up the rats nest of wiring I had going on, gonna see if that helps else slap the active cooler in, so far seems to be helping to the tune of 20-30C, NO JOKE...WOW, color me impressed. Time to put some load to see if this will really do the trick but before I could not even leave the chassis lid on without it skyrocketing previous to 'wiring clean-up'. Fan mode set to 'Full Speed' in SM IPMI web sess as it was before, noctua PWN fans run at 1900RPM, weak/sigh. (kicking myself in the arse that I didn't take 'before' but here is 'after'. Bout as good as I can get it, took nearly an hour to get 'just right'

    X10SL7-F-wiring-cleaned-up.jpg
     
    #3
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
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  4. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    BOOO, just ran a Horizon Client to her VDI session and fired up big buck bunny 4K 60fps in chrome, 100% CPU usage across 2 cores, 2 mins into vid jumped from 55C to 100C BEEEEPPPPP from chassis, LOL, sonofa, ok ok stubborn as I am I will swapout active cooler tomorrow, it's either that or 'proper' midplane 80mm fans I assume...everyone/anyone concur? :-D

    So what's the vote?
    1. Four new 'proper' (San Ace/Nidec) mid plane fanwall 80mm fans (what ones if so that will easily bolt on/fit this application/chassis?)
    2. Swap out to passive for active heatsink once I take off passive heatsink backing plate (mobo dismount of course and a mild bandaid fix disregarding the garbage noctua's I have that don't push sh|t for static pressure/CFM/RPM)
    3. Bandaid fix w/ 40/80mm fan on top of passive heatsink (my least desirable option)

    Kind regards, whitey
     
    #4
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
  5. Rand__

    Rand__ Well-Known Member

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    How about rigging up an air channel first? That's a part that should be in the manual too as its required/recommended for all passive coolers...

    Else active cooler will be less noisy than switching the Noctua's as it applies cooling directly
     
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  6. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Good thought, would have to be 'creative/custom' though as norco doesn't make those as far as I know like I have for my cse-216's although I don't use them but have proper fans there and active heatsinks. Worth a cardboard try just for kicks ha, probably will just go w active heatsink swapout in the end.

    Appreciate you weighing-in!
     
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  7. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Well hell, feeling defeated, wife is happy w/ performance on new setup (2 vCPU @ 3.5 GhZ) v.s. (4vCPU @ 2.1 GhZ) but I sure the hell can't figure this heatsink issue out. Tried to do maint and put the active heatsink in but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the backing plate off, doesn't even look like it is supposed to come off. Leaves me to be believe I am blind or MAYBE the active heatsink pushpins will just slot into the threaded backing plate holes but I don't have the guts to try it...doesn't seem right.

    Any tips/suggestions or just get a 40mm fan to place over passive heatsink and call it a day? Weak sauce.

    I did take the opportunity to get the 9211-8i LSI SAS ctrl out of there and use the onboard 2308 LSI ctrl w/ my newly sourced reverse breakout cables. Not real happy w/ the 'clutter look' v.s. the two 8087 cables that were going to the 9211-8i I pulled but I'll manage. Also applied AS5 thermal paste to passive heatsink and threw it all back together. GRRR.

    X10SL7-1.jpg X10SL7-2.jpg X10SL7-3.jpg X10SL7-4.jpg
     
    #7
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2019
  8. T_Minus

    T_Minus Moderator

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    I've never taken that backplate off, the heatsink that work screw into it, or no backplate push-on one like you have.
     
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  9. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Right, it's freaking weird, I had several years ago X9 SM mobo E3-1230v1 systems before and that is how I remember them being with the Intel heatsinks I had at the time (push pins/snap through and twist lock).

    The SNK-P0046A4 active cooler is clearly on the list on the mobo page.

    upload_2019-9-28_20-16-8.png

    X10SL7-F | Motherboards | Products | Super Micro Computer, Inc.

    I can't solve the riddle yet. May be heading to find a suitable (need to figure this out) 40mm PWM fan and say 'hell with it' just lay over top of proc and use the last free 4 pin header on the mobo.
     
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  10. T_Minus

    T_Minus Moderator

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    It looks like the 3 screws around the CPU will remove the CPU hold down mechanism and back plate.
    Maybe then you re-attach without the sides of the backplte, and only CPU portion?
     
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  11. Markess

    Markess Active Member

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    If you look closely, the retention mechanism brackets on the back of the motherboard are separate pieces from the actual CPU Socket. I think the issue is that they are glued with pretty strong glue. The ones on desktop boards (i.e. Dell Optiplex, etc) are often held with doublestick tape and you can pry them off, but SM tends to glue theirs.

    I had a similar heat issue moving an older SM board from a server case to a tower. I was able to retrofit an Intel stock cooler similar to the one you pictured (with metal arms for the retention bracket). I removed the push pin assemblies, and used screws (1/4" 6-32 thread screws from the hardware store, but can't guarantee the thread pitch on your X10). I also got some hard rubber washers that were about the same thickness as the round disk at the base of the push pin. I sandwiched those between the motherboard and the bottom of the arm on the heatsink (hope that makes sense). That way, the clamping pressure stayed about the same as with pushpins, and tightening the screw down until the rubber washer started to compress ensured the screws stayed in place.
     
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  12. Rand__

    Rand__ Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure the passive HS is mounted correctly?
    I thought the air should be able to pass through the fins to take up heat - you'd need to rotate 90° either way to have that happen...
     
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  13. T_Minus

    T_Minus Moderator

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    GOOOOD catch!

    I would also use a 2U or taller passive HS and\or make air channel :D
     
    #13
  14. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    The backing plate certainly looks glued/epoxied rather well, my picture did not show that but I distinctly recall that looking from different angles. I did get a doublestick backing plate w/ the passive heatsink before I realized the plate was already on there so that went unused. I'll have to see if there is any way to take out the push pins and secure it in some other fashion, not sure I have the desire to screw w/ it that much though.
     
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  15. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Uhhh, I do indeed have that buggered up it would appear. Still don't think w/ it turned 90 degrees either way to get fins 'flowing' w/ air direction will help that much in this case but who knows, I WAS awfully surprised that simply cleaning up the cable clutter dropped 20-30C off temps so maybe that fix-up will have a more dramatic effect than expected. Thanks again for the catch!
     
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  16. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Thanks for the input T, just following the mobo pdf and SM website for the X10SL7 I didn't see a 2U passive but I can go look again to see if something fits the application, being 2 heatsinks in already I am beyond irritated w/ the thought of having to cough up more loot to get a third HS. GRRRR, this was supposed to be a super budget build and now I have 25% of total system cost into heatsinks. I may pull a janky move and just get a 40/80mm fan to plop on top and walk away.

    With that in mind there is certainly a large disparity in 'proper' fan to alleviate my CPU cooling woes. For example a Noctua NF-A4X20 lists 5K rpm and a Delta FFB0412SHN 13K rpm, trying to hone in on the proper balance, the delta sounds like it would be a screamer.
     
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  17. RedX1

    RedX1 Member

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    Hi


    Getting the Supermicro 115X CPU Cooler backing plates off of used motherboards is a very tricky job. Particularly if you are trying not to damage the board. They are attached with film adhesive that really hardens over time.

    I did this procedure enough times to seek a better way of putting an active cooler these small motherboards.

    The Standard Intel 115X Cooler can be attached quite simply, if you can make some small adaptors. I made these, you can then attach the CPU cooler to a SM Motherboard using 3.0mm dia. screws.


    Cooler Mount Adaptors.PNG



    IMG_2237 Adj 2.jpg

    This way does not require the backing plate to be removed and it has worked well for me.


    I hope it helps.



    Have fun.



    RedX1
     

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  18. T_Minus

    T_Minus Moderator

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    I'd try the Noctua first if you have it :) Or can pick it up local and quick to try.
    13k RPM for an E3 seems excessive :D
     
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  19. whitey

    whitey Moderator

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    Funny, on first install I had the passive HS fins going the right way but I clearly need to fix that now, while I Do like @RedX1 idea above I don't have the gear to crank that out. I believe I'll probably pick up a Noctua 40mm fan, question is what's the preference/difference between these two or is there a better option?

    Amazon.com: noctua nf-a4x20 pwm

    One is a 5V version, other looks std, both PWN 4 pin, not sure the benefits or if either will work.
     
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  20. Markess

    Markess Active Member

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    The passive cooler's fins are connected together across the top with folded over fin material. The folded parts create "stripes" across the top with small "holes" in the middle of each joint. I've used small sheetmetal screws through those to attach fans to the LGA 2011 Narrow ILM heatsinks. On those the spacing is perfect for an 80mm fan. You may want to measure your heasink to see if any standard size fan will fit (perhaps canted a bit so that two diagonal holes match). A larger, slower fan, might fit and be more quiet than a 40mm?
     
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