mine (CW-ADLN-6L) is still a couple of weeks away.
@splifingate confirmed with another N305 model that up to 48GB (and possibly 64 in the future) works
CWWK/Topton/... Nxxx quad NIC router
- Thread starter Becks0815
- Start date
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@splifingate confirmed with another N305 model that up to 48GB (and possibly 64 in the future) works
I was referring to what the M2_NVME_X1/NA jumper does as well as the USB 2.0 header pinout.
As for memory, If only Best Buy still allows opened memory returns, I can probably test it out, lol.
Probably still want to run a full Memtest though to confirm.
yeah that too. I have some nvme SSD's coming also, but machine will still be 2 weeks away
On mine (CW-ADLN-6L) I reverse engineered (multimeter) the outputs to the serial console - if anyone wanted.
Do you know what type of connector is this? Want to order a bracket so I can move to console, so I can passthrough the GPU to a VM.
For those looking for cooling solutions, apparently there is an "official" 3D-printed external fan stand that allows you to mount a larger fan at the bottom and raise the unit:
I've seen this bracket in a few review videos.
I've seen this bracket in a few review videos.
Having some strange issues with my unit...
Initial boot got the black screen and 1+5 beeps, swapped out memory just in case and did a CMOS clear and now it does nothing. Hit the power button, no beeps, power LED flashes once, they comes on for 10-15s then shuts off and repeats. Let it sit like that for a while in case it's just memory training but never gets out of the loop. Tried two monitors just in case (other thread about monitor issues) it was doing something and no luck.
Starting to think it's just bricked. which would be weird from just a CMOS clear.
Anyone here seen anything similar.
Initial boot got the black screen and 1+5 beeps, swapped out memory just in case and did a CMOS clear and now it does nothing. Hit the power button, no beeps, power LED flashes once, they comes on for 10-15s then shuts off and repeats. Let it sit like that for a while in case it's just memory training but never gets out of the loop. Tried two monitors just in case (other thread about monitor issues) it was doing something and no luck.
Starting to think it's just bricked. which would be weird from just a CMOS clear.
Anyone here seen anything similar.
Finally done: PWN fan steering with data loging:
The heart of the gimmick: an ESP32 C3 super mini:
In detail:
Steering is done using an ESP C3. The 3.3V to run is are generated using a bucket converter (12V -> 3.3V), the green thing with the yellow and black cable (12V input) and red/black output (3.3V). the fan is also attached to the 12V side.
The blue cable goes to pin 0 which is used to generate the pwn signal, and last but not least the green cable (pin 9 of the ESP) goes to a Dallas single wirde digital thermometer (DS18B20). The ESP connects to WiFi and the data server via MQTT and sends the temperature and duty cycle to the db.
Why took it so long?
I can use an ATMega 328 to generate a PWM signal and to read analog signals, typically used when connecting an analog 10k temp sensor. The ATmega has no Wifi, so I had to replace it. First I tried the good old Wemos D1 ESP8266, but failed to generate a PWM signal (no signal generator built in, and the software version is too slow).
Then I tried a Lilygo ESPC3, which has a pwm generator built in, but now the analog signal and temperature was way off. Seems like the C3 has issues with this kind of data. On top, the Lilygo costs 6-8 USD, a bit too much for such a simple task.
Replaced it with a Wemos ESP32 C3 (V2.1) and ordered a bunch of Dallas 1 wire digital sensors. The sensors worked, but the Wemos C3 is bonkers. Even the V2.1 has issues with connecting to WiFi, the V1.0 is unusable. At least I could test something, without risking good hardware: The Noctua offcially uses 5V for the PWM signal, but I failed to generate a 5V one by using a level logic converter (3.3V to 5V). Out of frustration, I tried a 3.3V signal, and it works.
Then I finally found the ultra cheap, ultra small ESP32C3 super mini. Costs 2.50 USD only and everything works fine, including WiFi. Now I can assemble everything, attach the temp. Sensor to the case and then decide at which point I want to turn on the fan at which speed.
The heart of the gimmick: an ESP32 C3 super mini:
In detail:
Steering is done using an ESP C3. The 3.3V to run is are generated using a bucket converter (12V -> 3.3V), the green thing with the yellow and black cable (12V input) and red/black output (3.3V). the fan is also attached to the 12V side.
The blue cable goes to pin 0 which is used to generate the pwn signal, and last but not least the green cable (pin 9 of the ESP) goes to a Dallas single wirde digital thermometer (DS18B20). The ESP connects to WiFi and the data server via MQTT and sends the temperature and duty cycle to the db.
Why took it so long?
I can use an ATMega 328 to generate a PWM signal and to read analog signals, typically used when connecting an analog 10k temp sensor. The ATmega has no Wifi, so I had to replace it. First I tried the good old Wemos D1 ESP8266, but failed to generate a PWM signal (no signal generator built in, and the software version is too slow).
Then I tried a Lilygo ESPC3, which has a pwm generator built in, but now the analog signal and temperature was way off. Seems like the C3 has issues with this kind of data. On top, the Lilygo costs 6-8 USD, a bit too much for such a simple task.
Replaced it with a Wemos ESP32 C3 (V2.1) and ordered a bunch of Dallas 1 wire digital sensors. The sensors worked, but the Wemos C3 is bonkers. Even the V2.1 has issues with connecting to WiFi, the V1.0 is unusable. At least I could test something, without risking good hardware: The Noctua offcially uses 5V for the PWM signal, but I failed to generate a 5V one by using a level logic converter (3.3V to 5V). Out of frustration, I tried a 3.3V signal, and it works.
Then I finally found the ultra cheap, ultra small ESP32C3 super mini. Costs 2.50 USD only and everything works fine, including WiFi. Now I can assemble everything, attach the temp. Sensor to the case and then decide at which point I want to turn on the fan at which speed.
To anyone who has purchased one of these please let me know if the intel bootguard fuse has been enabled or not.
I'm looking into how to bring coreboot to these devices but if the fuse has been blown there is no point.
To check whether or not you have Intel Boot Guard enabled you can use intelmetool
I'm looking into how to bring coreboot to these devices but if the fuse has been blown there is no point.
To check whether or not you have Intel Boot Guard enabled you can use intelmetool
Code:
$ git clone --depth=1 https://review.coreboot.org/coreboot
$ cd util/intelmetool/
$ make
# modprobe msr
# ./intelmetool -b
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I'm looking for a N100 based device and read a lot in this thread.
Though I'm a bit concerned about the heat. Do I really need an external fan to be attached to the device for effective cooling?
Beats the purpose of buying a fanless mini-pc if I need to attach a fan to it to be effectively cooled...
I was looking at a few devices on Ali, the following models:
Any one got some input on this?
Though I'm a bit concerned about the heat. Do I really need an external fan to be attached to the device for effective cooling?
Beats the purpose of buying a fanless mini-pc if I need to attach a fan to it to be effectively cooled...
I was looking at a few devices on Ali, the following models:
Any one got some input on this?
No, not if you live in a not too hot area. I built my fan and the controller because I like playing with ESP8266 and similar small SBCs. But if the machine gets to hot, the most simple and yet very effective way of passive cooling is to remove the vertical plate on the side of the power button. This will allow enough fresh air to flow through the system to cool the critical parts: the SSD and the RAM.
Got mine direct from CWWK a week or so ago. Quick delivery, "C" type case without asking, thermals look good - very pleased.
I'm having a few LAN issues now, and I'm not sure whether it's the N100, Proxmox, pfSense or my setup. I'm therefore not sure where to ask, but hoping someone here has seen something similar. I'll be quick...
pfSense running on Proxmox (installed via doc on Netgate site), virtualised WAN and LAN ports. Imported setup from previous baremetal setup and reassigned the ports
1Gb internet up / down, PPPoE connection, VLAN ID 911 (UK Vodafone / CitiFibre)
LAN is fairly simple. 1 unmanaged main gigabit switch, 2 unmanaged gigabit switches connected with PCs / access points.
All running fine, but if a machine is doing a large download then after a while the speed will drop to about 10Mb/s (of the whole LAN). If I leave it for a while the speed will eventually return. If I pause the download, the speed will return (and resuming the download chokes the speed again). If I restart pfSense, the speed will return.
I set up an Ubuntu VM on Proxmox and connected it to pfSense's LAN bridge. While the network was slow, this instance was still able to get fast speeds on the WAN connection, so I'm pretty sure it's not ISP related.
There's nothing odd setup in pfSense (a few ports forwarded, but that's about it), and it was good on baremetal (Dell R210 II). I may have had this slowdown once or twice, but I'm restarting pfSense most days at the moment.
Appreciate this likely not the best place to ask, but I'm not sure where to start with this one, so appreciate your time.
I'm having a few LAN issues now, and I'm not sure whether it's the N100, Proxmox, pfSense or my setup. I'm therefore not sure where to ask, but hoping someone here has seen something similar. I'll be quick...
pfSense running on Proxmox (installed via doc on Netgate site), virtualised WAN and LAN ports. Imported setup from previous baremetal setup and reassigned the ports
1Gb internet up / down, PPPoE connection, VLAN ID 911 (UK Vodafone / CitiFibre)
LAN is fairly simple. 1 unmanaged main gigabit switch, 2 unmanaged gigabit switches connected with PCs / access points.
All running fine, but if a machine is doing a large download then after a while the speed will drop to about 10Mb/s (of the whole LAN). If I leave it for a while the speed will eventually return. If I pause the download, the speed will return (and resuming the download chokes the speed again). If I restart pfSense, the speed will return.
I set up an Ubuntu VM on Proxmox and connected it to pfSense's LAN bridge. While the network was slow, this instance was still able to get fast speeds on the WAN connection, so I'm pretty sure it's not ISP related.
There's nothing odd setup in pfSense (a few ports forwarded, but that's about it), and it was good on baremetal (Dell R210 II). I may have had this slowdown once or twice, but I'm restarting pfSense most days at the moment.
Appreciate this likely not the best place to ask, but I'm not sure where to start with this one, so appreciate your time.
@Becks0815
Thanks! I also found this one which looks good:
@cessquill
Can you tell me what the "C" type case is?
Thanks! I also found this one which looks good:
@cessquill
Can you tell me what the "C" type case is?
I don't think it is the N100 (unless it is throttling) so I'll keep it short.
As you are using PPPoE, is that single threaded on pfSense? What CPU type are you using for it? I have two cores using type=host for OPNSense.
There looks to be a lot going on in the pf world ATM from the limited exposure I see on Reddit, not good unfortunately.
Thanks for getting back to me. I think PPPoE is single threaded, yes (for this I largely just followed instructions). At the moment I'm set to host type for the CPU with a single core and four threads. I don't think it's N100 related either, but it's my first journey into both virtualization and >1Gb ports, so I could miss the obvious.
Was thinking about migrating to OPNSense, but didn't fancy doing it all in one hit. Looks like I'm spinning up a test VM over the weekend. The old R210 is still in the rack so I can patch that back in.
It works. Here is the data logging output:
Now I can play with the start temperature (currently 40°C) and how long the fan should be on, plus the duty cycle (=fan speed).
Now I can play with the start temperature (currently 40°C) and how long the fan should be on, plus the duty cycle (=fan speed).
I was not able to get a clear response from the tool:To anyone who has purchased one of these please let me know if the intel bootguard fuse has been enabled or not.
I'm looking into how to bring coreboot to these devices but if the fuse has been blown there is no point.
To check whether or not you have Intel Boot Guard enabled you can use intelmetool
Code:$ git clone --depth=1 https://review.coreboot.org/coreboot $ cd util/intelmetool/ $ make # modprobe msr # ./intelmetool -b
[root@localhost-live intelmetool]# /intelmetool -b
Can't find ME PCI device
Can't find ME PCI device
If it is of any use, this is what appears in the BIOS
| Brand string | Intel(R) Core (TM) |
| I3-N305 | |
| VMX | Supported |
| SMX/TXT | Not Supported |
| TXT Crash Code | 0x00000000 |
| TXT SPAD | 0x0000000000000000 |
| Boot Guard Status | 0x00000000 |
| Boot Guard ACM Policy Status | 0x0000000000000000 |
| Boot Guard SACM Information | 0x0000007000000000 |
From what I can tell, the jumper does nothing...
The supplied NVME card comes up in either slot, with the jumper in either position...
The lspci output shows the card running in 1x mode in either slot with the jumper in either position.
I did not see any relevant settings in the BIOS.
I will do some more testing when more parts come in.