Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching)

Bjorn Smith

Active Member
Sep 3, 2019
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that cable will work and that is running plenty cool, if it heats up it will just spin the fans up to speed 2 to compensate, but it's not even near that temp yet
Cool thanks a lot - after having run in "production" around 18 hours now temps are:

Code:
Power supply 1 (NA - AC - PoE) present, status ok
Power supply 2 not present

Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 2 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2

Fan controlled temperature: 58.5 deg-C

Fan speed switching temperature thresholds:
                Speed 1: NM<----->64       deg-C
                Speed 2:       59<-----> 88 deg-C (shutdown)

Sensor B Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 55.0 deg-C
Sensor A Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 58.5 deg-C
        Warning level.......: 78.0 deg-C
        Shutdown level......: 88.0 deg-C
So it only crept up a few degrees since that, but its kind of annoying that it borders on the speed 2 threshold - I hope when it gets hotter in the weather that it will not just go from fan 1 speed to fan 2 speed and back constantly, that would be a little annoying with the changing fan speed.

Now I just have to figure out how to configure my VLAN's properly :)

I have never done VLAN's before, but I want to separate my LAN/DMZ/GUEST before I even consider opening up anything to the outside :)

Any good guides on the internet which will help me understand VLAN's better, i.e. the difference betwwen Tagged/Untagged ports, Trunk/Access/Hybrid ports etc.

Would be awesome with a virtual "lab" with multiple switches, computers where you could change the configuration and see traffic flow/not flow depending on how stuff was configured.
 

Fallen Kell

New Member
Mar 10, 2020
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But it does spin down after boot right? Rev A's are definitely louder, if you can source a couple of rev B's or C's it will be noticeably quieter
The fans were not spinning down, but I figured out why. I only had one power supply plugged into an outlet. Once I plugged the second one in, they finally went into a more reasonable quiet mode (it's still louder than my 4U server, but I did a lot of mods to that to quiet it). It is finally on the order of magnitude as my old 24 port switch (just without the failing fan bearing drone noise that the old one has and the main reason for me finally upgrading).
 
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Tobolaski

New Member
Mar 16, 2020
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I just acquired an ICX7250-48p. I've been trying to get connected to the console but I've run into an issue. I've assembled a couple of the serial cables for these and using the settings that it should be (9600 8N1), all I get is gibberish. The way the output is produced seems like it is a boot up sequence and if I let it go, it will echo back what I type like it has gotten to the shell but the output is unreadable. Any ideas on how I can get it working?
 

fohdeesha

Kaini Industries
Nov 20, 2016
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The fans were not spinning down, but I figured out why. I only had one power supply plugged into an outlet. Once I plugged the second one in, they finally went into a more reasonable quiet mode (it's still louder than my 4U server, but I did a lot of mods to that to quiet it). It is finally on the order of magnitude as my old 24 port switch (just without the failing fan bearing drone noise that the old one has and the main reason for me finally upgrading).
I can't remember if both PSUs needing to be plugged in to spin down is a documented thing with the rev A's, it's been a while ,but glad you got it figured out. If you want to go even quieter you can keep an eye out on ebay for rev B or C PSUs
 

Tobolaski

New Member
Mar 16, 2020
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sounds like the previous owner reconfigured the serial baudrate (can be set with a u-boot env variable). try 19200, 38400, 57600, 115200, etc until the output makes sense
I thought of that before I posted and tried a couple of the baud rates around 9600 but, they didn't work. I've now gone through all of the commonly used baud rates and none of them produces a useable output. Can it be set to anything or just the commonly used rates?

Could the cable be wrong? I feel like if it wasn't right, I wouldn't be getting anything.

I've contacted the seller and they were not helpful. The only thing that they were able to do is mention that the serial port is a micro-usb port and to offer a return
 

fohdeesha

Kaini Industries
Nov 20, 2016
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I thought of that before I posted and tried a couple of the baud rates around 9600 but, they didn't work. I've now gone through all of the commonly used baud rates and none of them produces a useable output. Can it be set to anything or just the commonly used rates?

Could the cable be wrong? I feel like if it wasn't right, I wouldn't be getting anything.

I've contacted the seller and they were not helpful. The only thing that they were able to do is mention that the serial port is a micro-usb port and to offer a return
the cable is physically fine, I have had one instance where I was getting garbled crap and it was the usb > serial adapter driver crapping out, a reboot fixed it. Can you reboot the PC, and unplug/replug the serial adapter and try again? if it's still garbled, test the serial adapter on something else to ensure there adapter itself is fine. I can almost 100% guarantee the switch itself is fine. If you've done all that to rule out the serial adapter, step through every single one of these serial speeds, one of them will work: 4800, (9600 which I'm assuming is the first thing you tried), 19200, 38400, 57600 and 115200
 
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Hexcode

New Member
Mar 19, 2020
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Just got a Brocade ICX6450-24P an exchanged the fans to Noctua ones. Now the system is stating the FANs are failed? Is this an expected behaviour? I changed the Pins (yellow, black) like the original ones before, but this doesn't change anything :/
 

Bjorn Smith

Active Member
Sep 3, 2019
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Just got a Brocade ICX6450-24P an exchanged the fans to Noctua ones. Now the system is stating the FANs are failed? Is this an expected behaviour? I changed the Pins (yellow, black) like the original ones before, but this doesn't change anything :/
I just did the the same a couple of days again - and its working perfectly for me, no errors.

Check the both fans are spinning - I had an issue first where one fan did not have a proper connection, so only one was registered correctly and I got the "fans failed" error.

And just double check that you bought 12V fans - Noctua have the fans both as 5V and 12V.
 

Hexcode

New Member
Mar 19, 2020
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Fans are spinning and it's the 12V Version... did you change black and yellow or did you simply connect the fans?
 

Bjorn Smith

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Sep 3, 2019
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Its not just a matter of connecting the switches - cables have to be switched - I cannot remember right now, but the original fans have:

Black is Ground
Yellow is 12v
Green is Sensor

And I just looked at what the Noctua Fans were and connected the correct wires.

I am using these fans: NF-A4x20 FLX

Which is using these pins:
Noctua

So you would need to connect
Black -> Black
Green -> Yellow
Yellow -> Red

Check if thats what you have done.
 

Hexcode

New Member
Mar 19, 2020
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My stock fan's didn't have a green one. They had black, yellow, red like the Noctua ones. While the order on the original ones was black, red, yellow the Noctua had yellow-red-black. So I changed yellow and black on the noctua ones and the fans are spinning.
 

Bjorn Smith

Active Member
Sep 3, 2019
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Noctua had yellow-red-black.
OK, assuming your original fans are: Black=Ground, Yellow=12V, Red=Sensor

That means you need to connect:

Original -> Noctua
Black -> Black
Yellow -> Red
Red -> Yellow

If you already have that, then you need to find out the specs of the original fan, so you know what pins to connect to what.

But anyway, I am pretty sure Black is ground - that seems to be a "standard" - even though fan manufacturers like to switch others around.
 

Hexcode

New Member
Mar 19, 2020
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Seems like I fried the chip which is reading the values. Even with the original fans the reading states failed :/
As the fan's are spinning correctly and the temperature is fine I'm going to ignore this - only thing is now Zabbix is showing the fans as failed, too. But as I also monitor the temperature of the device, this shouldn't be a problem, since alarming is then triggered on temperature and not the actual fan state.
 
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Alitech

New Member
Feb 14, 2020
21
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Quick question folks, I am trying to purchase brocade transceivers and multimode cables for my home lab but have confusion over the different models of transceivers.

I have a 6450p 48port and trying to buy some kit to enable SFP on my computers.

I have already bought this from reading up in this thread.
2 Mellanox MCX311A-XCAT CX311A ConnectX-3 EN Network Card 10GbE + cable SFP | eBay

I plan to use one care on my main rig and the other on a NAS that i created. It only comes with 1 cable and a set of tranceivers and they look to be 10GB so all good there. However I now need another cable and set of transceivers to connect the switch to my NAS and looking around for sets.

Is this ok? Brocade 58-1000027-01 10Gb 3M SFP to SFP Active FCoE Cable 4052777114608 | eBay
P/N: 58-1000027-01

I looked this up on google and saw that this "could" be for ethernet and not fibre channel, but I cant say for sure.

Any help is much appreciated.

ALso, I am trying to get brocade stuff as it show more data in the switches as this thread has said a number of times.

I just need to ensure I am buying the correct kit for my setup.
 

sash

Member
Nov 22, 2019
31
4
8
Quick question folks, I am trying to purchase brocade transceivers and multimode cables for my home lab but have confusion over the different models of transceivers.

I have a 6450p 48port and trying to buy some kit to enable SFP on my computers.

I have already bought this from reading up in this thread.
2 Mellanox MCX311A-XCAT CX311A ConnectX-3 EN Network Card 10GbE + cable SFP | eBay

I plan to use one care on my main rig and the other on a NAS that i created. It only comes with 1 cable and a set of tranceivers and they look to be 10GB so all good there. However I now need another cable and set of transceivers to connect the switch to my NAS and looking around for sets.

Is this ok? Brocade 58-1000027-01 10Gb 3M SFP to SFP Active FCoE Cable 4052777114608 | eBay
P/N: 58-1000027-01

I looked this up on google and saw that this "could" be for ethernet and not fibre channel, but I cant say for sure.

Any help is much appreciated.

ALso, I am trying to get brocade stuff as it show more data in the switches as this thread has said a number of times.

I just need to ensure I am buying the correct kit for my setup.
You do not need active cable for what you want to achieve. Passive is what you need. Not sure about Brocade DAC cables. But transceiver modules should be MM (Miltymode type). Here is a link to Brocade modules support: https://www.andovercg.com/datasheets/brocade-ethernet-optics-family-ds.pdf
You need 10G-SFPP-USR model.
 

Mithril

Member
Sep 13, 2019
96
19
8
Hey all, So I've read this thread in bits and pieces over time so forgive me if I have missed/forgotten things :)

I've got a 6610 on the way, before I start messing with it I'd like to dump/save everything I can as backups (licences, firmware), feel free to just point out the previous posts that cover that
I know based on discussion that these are very sensitive to the RPM of the fans and are thus considered "not modifiable", that being said are there replacement fans of a compatible RPM that are better (more CFM per DB) as I know not all fans are created equal; has anyone tried replacing the TIM, and/or replacing heatsinks(s)?