(Update 04-25) DFI DT122 (AMD RX-427BB) Industrial ITX T730-a-like; $99 shipped w/ 8GB

[canta]

https://www.dfi.com/Uploads/Downloa...2b2/DFI-BE170-BE171-BE173-Mini-ITX-Manual.pdf

DFI has manuals for everything available on their website

All of these boards are basically the same, the only differences are in ATX power vs DC 12V and one of the motherboards has a lesser SoC in place of the RX-427BB.

Thanks, seeing the front-header pin diagram/layout.
expecting LAN leds on the front-header, actually not...

 

[Dave Corder]

I don't see any USB ports on the front. Are there by any chance some USB ports on the side? I think I'd like to use one as an HTPC, but I would need a USB port to add my FLIRC receiver to keep the wife-acceptance-factor high. I can Dremel a hole in the case easily enough and put in a panel-mount USB port if I need to, though.

 

[techtoys]

need a USB port to add my FLIRC receiver

I just bought my FLIRC receiver yesterday. I was planning on installing it on the back and just assumed it would work. If not I guess I can use a simple cable as an extender and change the position externally. It will not look as nice.

I'm using it as an HTPC running J.River right now. It seems to work well but I have not thrown much at it other than blu-ray 1080p. Audio bitstreaming is working fine. I replaced the side fan and may replace it again but after adding hardware the airflow may be needed. Shucked a 8 TB WD Easystore and added it to the case. Looking at using the riser for additional storage or networking but a 1G connection is generally good enough for video. I like to switch tracks a lot and the video stops to buffer if its on the network. Not an issue for movies but I am using it as a jukebox.

 

[arglebargle]

I just bought my FLIRC receiver yesterday. I was planning on installing it on the back and just assumed it would work. If not I guess I can use a simple cable as an extender and change the position externally. It will not look as nice.

I'm using it as an HTPC running J.River right now. It seems to work well but I have not thrown much at it other than blu-ray 1080p. Audio bitstreaming is working fine. I replaced the side fan and may replace it again but after adding hardware the airflow may be needed. Shucked a 8 TB WD Easystore and added it to the case. Looking at using the riser for additional storage or networking but a 1G connection is generally good enough for video. I like to switch tracks a lot and the video stops to buffer if its on the network. Not an issue for movies but I am using it as a jukebox.

One thing you could try for airflow is attaching a pair of 40 or 50mm x10mm fans to the intake vents. I thought about that as a replacement for the somewhat noisy exhaust fan. Also, once you drop to a certain sound level by replacing the exhaust fan you'll want to look at replacing the CPU fan too, it's louder than you'd expect.

 

[fossxplorer]

Perhaps OT: can anyone recommend me a the smallest case possible for the DFI BE170? I got the version with ATX power intake (ie. BE170)
I suspect the CPU cooler will make trouble for some mini ITX cases?

 

[arglebargle]

Perhaps OT: can anyone recommend me a the smallest case possible for the DFI BE170? I got the version with ATX power intake (ie. BE170)
I suspect the CPU cooler will make trouble for some mini ITX cases?

The CPU cooler isn't all that tall TBH, maybe 3cm fan included? The whole assembly doesn't protrude too much higher than the DIMMs. I'm sure the DFI website has a mechanical drawing of the board somewhere, cooler included.

Also, just as a heads-up to anyone else thinking about buying: I'm having cold-boot issues with one of my boxes using an HP 560SFP+ (OEM Intel X520-DA2/SR2). Absolutely zero issues with the other machine running a BCM57810. I have a couple more Mellanox CX3's in the mail right now that I'm going to put in both machines but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone is planning a build using an X520.

This could also be a one-off thing, I bought this machine from another forum member who was, uh, less than kind to his hardware. It arrived with the case screws a little stripped and the CPU fan completely missing. It was cheap though!

edit: Updated the OP with some photos of the inside of the case and of the PSU.

 

[canta]

Perhaps OT: can anyone recommend me a the smallest case possible for the DFI BE170? I got the version with ATX power intake (ie. BE170)
I suspect the CPU cooler will make trouble for some mini ITX cases?

Cpu cooler is not the problem. It would ram up to 7000rpm . Very loud.
I have one on idle running ~3k rpm. That is still loud for me.
Combine with small mini itx board. It would run greater than 3k for sure.

I am building another my own 3printing cylinder case for this board and this beast generate more heat than my i3 v3 board in identical customized cylinder case on average, which pretty tight in space and only has top 120mm exhaust fan control by motherboard.

On my case. I replace with my good spare 80mm fan and 50mm to 80mm adapter.






the cpu fan height is mostly identical with standard intel heatsink/cpu combo.
I can make height shorter. but ~45 angle slot should be give smooth fan circulation from 80mm to 50mm by forcing the pressure.

If you do not mind on noise. It will fit on super compact mini itx case for sure.
Or if you wan to normalize fan noise. You have to replace cpu fan with 80mm fan minimally < mine replace with 800rpm to 5000rpm fan>. You can make your own adapter with simple hack or 3d printing.
I picked 3dprinting due on having 3d printer.

Good luck.

For stressing. Iam using streess-ng with command under linux:
class <memory|io|interrupt|os|cpu|os> —sequential 0 -timeout 20 —debug

Torturing stress test

 

[techtoys]

I'm having cold-boot issues with one of my boxes using an HP 560SFP+ (OEM Intel X520-DA2/SR2). ... but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone is planning a build using an X520

Thank You!
I was planning on trying a Dell X520-T2. These older chips run hotter and the Dell board has a fan on the chip. Using this or an LSI HBA in such a small case may cause heat issues. These types of boxes could not have been designed for such a use case .. which is why you suggested additional fans on the side.

I'll see if I get time this weekend to plug in the X520 card.
I was wondering if the AMD CPU could move data that fast anyways. I was impressed with the on board network controller and CPU being able to handle 1080p H.264 video. In Jriver this is an issue for a video jukebox since it downloads the video to cache at top speed and then the network is relatively quiet. During the download to cache the CPU sometimes has issues with feeding running video and stutters. Other HTPC I have used really struggle with the network even when the GPU can handle the video decoding.

 

[arglebargle]

@techtoys let me know how it goes, I don't have enough data with this one NIC to know if this is a common thing with X520s or just a one-off with this machine and this NIC. I was tempted to pick up another X520 board and see if it happened again but with Mellanox 40Gb NICs being so cheap I've just standardized on them across all of my machines.

 

[techtoys]

@techtoys let me know how it goes, I don't have enough data with this one NIC to know if this is a common thing with X520s or just a one-off with this machine and this NIC. I was tempted to pick up another X520 board and see if it happened again but with Mellanox 40Gb NICs being so cheap I've just standardized on them across all of my machines.

I'll plug it in! will try earlier but for sure by weekend. It's just schedule on when I get home.

I also have the Mellanox cards 10G and 40G and where I can I use them. My best case in most rooms in the house would still be 10G with Mellanox over fiber. Lighting the fiber is a chore. Also the existing fiber will not run 40G. I know what you mean about cheap 40G. I punched a hole in my floor and through the garage ceiling to get a 40G link from bedroom closet to rack in the garage. In wall wiring is still easier with 10G RJ45. I have X520 and Aquantia for that. The rack is easy 40G since Mellanox IB switches are cheap but noisy.

 

[fossxplorer]

@canta and @arglebargle Thanks for your feedback. I picked up this board in the believe that it would be low power and low noise like T730, but it seems i might be wrong here..
@canta, do you have any files for 3Dprinting the duct for an 80mm fan?

 

[arglebargle]

@canta and @arglebargle Thanks for your feedback. I picked up this board in the believe that it would be low power and low noise like T730, but it seems i might be wrong here..
@canta, do you have any files for 3Dprinting the duct for an 80mm fan?

You could start with just replacing the exhaust fan and the CPU fan. With these tiny fans it's a lot more difficult to make the machine quiet than it is with a 80mm or 120mm fans but you can make decent improvements without too much effort.

If you tell me what you're planning to use the machine for, and what you're going to put in the PCIe slot, I can point you at some Sunon maglev fan models that'll be quieter. They won't be silent but they'll be quite a bit quieter.

Also, I've said this before but I'll say it again here for visibility: If the 40mm exhaust fan is too loud you could remove it (or preferably replace with a 40x40x10mm quiet Noctua) and gang two 50x50x10 fans together side by side pulling air in the intake vent down by the SATA ports. You'll have to be creative with your mounting (zip ties will probably do if you've got nothing else.) Or you could drill holes in the side panel and mount them permanently, but I wouldn't do that until after you've tested their effectiveness. If you do this I'd test your temps under load and add the 40x40x10mm exhaust if required, I don't know if 50x10mm fans have the static pressure to push air out of the case effectively by themselves. Honestly this machine is so overkill cooled by default that if you've got some airflow and you're not cranking out a ton of heat from a 20W NIC or a GPU that it's probably enough

With a Sunon 40x40x20mm maglev fan as an exhaust (V1 or V2, I don't recall right now), the stock fan on the CPU cooler and a Broadcom 10Gb NIC I had CPU temps of, like, 52C(?) while stressing the CPU for 20 minutes straight last night. The stock cooling is seriously overkill. I have more Mellanox CX3 40Gb NICs arriving this week, once I get those in and installed I'll put together some comparisons of temps and noise with different exhaust and CPU fans and link to the models I used.

 

[canta]

You could start with just replacing the exhaust fan and the CPU fan. With these tiny fans it's a lot more difficult to make the machine quiet than it is with a 80mm or 120mm fans but you can make decent improvements without too much effort.

If you tell me what you're planning to use the machine for, and what you're going to put in the PCIe slot, I can point you at some Sunon maglev fan models that'll be quieter. They won't be silent but they'll be quite a bit quieter.

Also, I've said this before but I'll say it again here for visibility: If the 40mm exhaust fan is too loud you could remove it (or preferably replace with a 40x40x10mm quiet Noctua) and gang two 50x50x10 fans together side by side pulling air in the intake vent down by the SATA ports. You'll have to be creative with your mounting (zip ties will probably do if you've got nothing else.) Or you could drill two holes per fan in the side panel and mount them that way but I wouldn't do that until after you've tested their effectiveness. If you do this I'd test your temps under load and add the 40x40x10mm exhaust if required, I don't know if 50x10mm fans have the static pressure to push air out of the case effectively by themselves. Honestly this machine is so overkill cooled by default that if you've got some airflow and you're not cranking out a ton of heat from a 20W NIC or a GPU that it's probably enough

With a Sunon 40x40x20mm maglev fan as an exhaust (V1 or V2, I don't recall right now), the stock fan on the CPU cooler and a Broadcom 10Gb NIC I had CPU temps of, like, 52C(?) while stressing the CPU for 20 minutes straight last night. The stock cooling is seriously overkill. I have more Mellanox CX3 40Gb NICs arriving this week, once I get those in and installed I'll put together some comparisons of temps and noise with different exhaust and CPU fans and link to the models I used.

it is not overkill when it said industrial .
this industrial "PC" always (mostly) places in warehouse that has very fluctuation in temperature.
this motherboard consume more watts due on additional hardware are added as I know.

 

[canta]

@canta and @arglebargle Thanks for your feedback. I picked up this board in the believe that it would be low power and low noise like T730, but it seems i might be wrong here..
@canta, do you have any files for 3Dprinting the duct for an 80mm fan?

I attach 92/80 to 50mm stl file.
92 to 55 has longer height 5mm.

you can edit those stl file as you like, if you want to adjust the height
80to50mm is good height for me.
if you use the original case, you have to adjust the height first for air flow.
if you are using mini-itx case, this is depends on how tall the case...

this is the beauty of 3d printing, does not fit? just edit the file and print :-D
good luck..

on my side:
this is kind of low power (more 10 watts consumption than old j1900 mini itx, but more power handling).
low noise always relarted with fan noises ,, bigger the fan and less noise, this is the fact ...

taming noise level is trial and error, but I am glad having 3d printing to do a clean hack way :-D

 

[brmiller]

You'll have to be creative with your mounting (zip ties will probably do if you've got nothing else.) Or you could drill two holes per fan in the side panel and mount them that way but I wouldn't do that until after you've tested their effectiveness.

Honestly, I’ve been enjoying success with “Sticky Tack”, BlueStik, or similar sticky rubber adhesive material. I’ve used it to mount fans, SSDs when no chassis mount was available, and the random piece of child artwork (not in a server chassis, of course) without any loss of adhesion. If you put the stuff on the corner of each fan (or SSD) and press hard against the surface you want it on, it will deform to be flat against the case and protrude into the screw hole providing extra “grab” for the fan (or disk). I also tell myself that it’s providing a sound isolation function as it is rubberized and will absorb minor vibrations without transferring them to the case.

 

[canta]

Honestly, I’ve been enjoying success with “Sticky Tack”, BlueStik, or similar sticky rubber adhesive material. I’ve used it to mount fans, SSDs when no chassis mount was available, and the random piece of child artwork (not in a server chassis, of course) without any loss of adhesion. If you put the stuff on the corner of each fan (or SSD) and press hard against the surface you want it on, it will deform to be flat against the case and protrude into the screw hole providing extra “grab” for the fan (or disk). I also tell myself that it’s providing a sound isolation function as it is rubberized and will absorb minor vibrations without transferring them to the case.

Based on my knowledge.
It might work well. Heatsink has fluctuation in temperature, let says 65 degree to less.
Rubbery double adhesion is good and easy for removal too. I has been used since 2005 for diy and everything.
But i see it would loose when temperature fluctuate occurs. I even mount ipcam with it..
I would buy Durable double sided for outdoor. It more stiff than regular one.

But i against to use on cpu heatsink especially this embedded amd cpu. It is easy to being 65 degrees or more when doing something and drop to 35 when idling..

Zip tie would be my preference for this beast hot embedded amd processor when living in a small mini itx case.

 

[jackfrost]

Oh yeah, if you are looking to put a crapload of RAM into your machine, I just had success with 16GB 2-Rank DDR3L notebook RAM on the t730. No reason why the same would not work on this machine.

Yes, I can confirm that 16gb cruicial dimms work... also, you can mount two more 2.5 drives using one of 2x 2.5 to 3.5 adapters (the ones with the solid bottoms are best) and some 3m vhb tape above the back IO and to the right (facing the front of the case).

I 3d printed a simple block to match the LAN port heights that fits between the edge of the motherboard and the case wall, then used the vhb tape to mount it to the bottom, then more vhb tape to mount the adapter to the block and the lan port tops... and there's still room for a (very) low profile card if you want one.

If you have the right sata cables (angled) you might be able to rotate for full usage of the pcie slot, but I'm not currently using it (and don't have angled cables spare atm) so I didn't test that.

 

[Geran]

I really want to get one of these and put it into a 1u chassis but I/O shield won't fit

 

[Marsh]

you can mount two more 2.5 drives using one of 2x 2.5 to 3.5 adapters (the ones with the solid bottoms are best) and some 3m vhb tape above the back IO and to the right (facing the front of the case).

Thank you for the brilliant idea of mounting 2 more SSD.
I do not have a 3-d printer.
I do have the next best thing.
I have this https://www.amazon.com/2-5-inch-Drive-3-5-inch-Plastic-Adapter/dp/B0061GEORW

I just tested this dual 2.5 inch plastic mount, it fit quite well, there are 2 mount screws hole line up with the case side grill. Do not need to drill any holes.

Now, I could fit 4 SSD inside.

 

[arglebargle]

@Marsh @jackfrost

I love that you guys are jamming more drives into these machines. I had exactly the same idea, if you want to jam even more drives in these exist too: New Mini PCIe PCI-Express to 2 Port SATA 3.0 III 6Gb/s Expansion Card PM1061

I'm moving in a month so I don't have a ton of time to fabricate parts right now but I'm planning on buying a 3d printer after the move and fabbing some internal mounts for mine. The space around the PSU is pretty inefficiently used, with a brace to hold up the PCIe riser you could replace the existing drive mount and probably fit 3-4 drives in there (cabling permitting) and 2-4 drives in over the NICs and mPCIe/SATA port area.

Does anyone know if super low profile SATA power cables exist? I've used these in SFF builds before and something similar for power would help jam in more drives above the PSU: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Lateral-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ