SATADOM 2 to 3 pin cables - How can I make them?

Discussion in 'DIY and Makers Spot' started by jonobk, Feb 13, 2020.

  1. jonobk

    jonobk New Member

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    Looking for some advice here. I have a couple SATADOMs that don't receive power from the yellow 7 pin on my X10 Supermicro board. I need to power via a tiny connector on the board, and an even tinyer connector on the SATADOM.

    These cables cost about $30 Canadian. Ouch!

    Any suggestions on how I can make one? Such as, what are the end connectors (type) and where can I get them?

    Thanks!
     
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  2. Markess

    Markess Active Member

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    This thread might help: https://forums.servethehome.com/ind...-2-pin-satadom-power-cable.27014/#post-249294
    In it, Forum Member @BeTeP noted that the 3 Pin connector on his DOMs is:

    Thanks to @BeTeP for originally sharing the info.

    If your motherboard's 3 pin connector is the same, or another Molex type, you can find out where they are in stock on the Molex site (www.molex.com) The 3 Pin version of the connector listed above is Molex Part 511460200 (Some sites may list it with a leading "0"). Enter that in the search on molex.com and click "Check Distributor Inventory". You can use that to narrow down by region.

    Most of the distributor websites will have some sort of search/filter feature to let you find connectors in a family by pin count as well, so if you are lucky and what you need are 3 and 2 pin connectors of the same type, its easier to locate them.

    I use Digikey, and at the bottom of the page for a given connector, they also list all the pins and crimpers that are compatible.

    Once you know what connector you need though, you may want to search Amazon to see if anyone is selling one (or both) of the connectors you need with pigtails. That way you only have to crimp the other end.

    Also, once you know what crimper type you need (assuming you don't already have the tools), you can also search those on Amazon. The parts sites, like Digikey, seem to want to sell you only professional tools. Honestly though, if you only plan to make a few of something, a cheaper tool that works along with some extra connectors/pins to accommodate mistakes and learning curve, is probably cheaper. If you do try, and if you aren't experienced with making cables, make sure you get some extra connectors & pins. Its hard to get it right first time every time, especially with small parts!
     
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  3. jonobk

    jonobk New Member

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    Thank you, @Markess!

    This got me pointed in the right direction, and I've found the part on Digikey that will work with the three pin connection to the Innodisk SATADOM-ML Industrial 3SE (0T4M4) part.

    A little more digging on Molex and Digikey any I'm certain I'll find the connector for the board end.
     
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  4. azev

    azev Active Member

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    let us know when you found the board end connector, I am in the same boat, need tons of these cables :)
     
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  5. nthu9280

    nthu9280 Well-Known Member

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  6. azev

    azev Active Member

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    that is good, but I'd like to find out the supermicro board connector as well.
     
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  7. jonobk

    jonobk New Member

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    Here are the parts that I have found for this project.

    Innodisk
    SATADOM-ML 3SE Series (Dell specific revision 0T4M4) No 7 pin power, must be powered with 5v cable.
    Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.

    Supermicro
    X10SRL-F (Supports 7 pin power over two yellow SATA ports. Also has two 5v connectors (JSD1, and JSD2) adjacent to the yellow ports to supply power to SATADOMs if they don't support 7pin SATA power.)
    Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.
    • Cable requires Molex 1513400302. (NB: This is both the three pin PicoBlade connector and a 28AWG wire assembly. This is a 150mm version, I would prefer to use the 300mm but it is out of stock currently.)
    Tools
     
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  8. jonobk

    jonobk New Member

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    Was about to buy the parts and decided to check clearances for the cables on the SATADOMs. I had planned to run two of these in a mirrored ZFS array to boot FreeNAS from. Unfortunately, the modules would be too close together to allow the connection of the power cable on one of them.

    Alas, I wont be able to use them as intended, and wont be ordering the parts to make the cables as a result.
     
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