Dedicated Network Electrical Circuit

[opensourcefan]

I have an electrician coming to do some things. I was thinking while they're here, it might be time to have proper 30amp circuits installed so I can fully utilize my 3000w UPS, and not worry about burning the house down.

Curious if there is anything I should ask for or look into for future planning, safety, convenience etc that you guys aware of.

Would it be worth it to install a kill switch (other than the breaker) and or a inline power meter or idunno.

 

[zunder1990]

maybe get this installed? IoTaWatt™ Open WiFi Electric Power Monitor
it is opensource power monitoring. It has 14 channels, use two for main panel inputs other 12 for your largest loads like AC, water heater, stove and dryer plus your server rack. Note when monitoring 240 devices like water heaters or AC you only need watch one leg of the 240volt since with dedicated 240 circuit the two 120volt legs will be with a few watts of each other. The iota has a feature where it will auto 2x the input so that will show the true usage of 240volt breakers while only watching one leg.

 

[opensourcefan]

@zunder1990
Wow, that is awesome. I like the fact it's opensource as well, totally goes with my use philosophy.

 

[Your name or]

Normally a Fuse in a House are rated for 16kw each Phase. I there should be no problem.
I think about an seperate Fuse for my Server just in the case something else trip the other one.

 

[zunder1990]

Normally a Fuse in a House are rated for 16kw each Phase. I there should be no problem.
I think about an seperate Fuse for my Server just in the case something else trip the other one.

The OP is USA based based on calling for a 30amp outlet to get 3000watts. In the USA most homes have 200amps service at 240. The service is connected as 2 hot legs each at 120volt and a natural leg. Each hot leg will be on a 200amp breaker but the two leg breakers are mechanical connected so if one leg trips both will trip. If you check voltage between the two hot legs you will get 240 volt hence calling it 240 volt service.

 

[Your name or]

The OP is USA based

How should we know. Thanks for say that.

 

[T_Minus]

Usually the cost is in running the wires, so if you're running them already adding a few more won't bump the cost much.
I suggest running more wire and conduit (if you're running conduit) than you plan to use.

• If running conduit, and running 1, run 2 or 3 so you can add more power or data lines in the future.
• Get 2x 30AMP, one on each 120v leg. (So you can add more equipment later, and if needed swap in case one side has issues and you need to keep something running.) This also gives you the ability to re-use some of these wires in the future for a single 50amp breaker\220v outlet should you update\change your PDU\BBU. (I try to make sure to put it NOT on the same leg as your 120v refrig or other leg with motor going on\off -- you can't avoid it 100%, but the fridge is usually it in the home that goes on\off... most new ACs are inverter \ not huge load on startup anymore so that's good)
• Run 1x 15 or 20amp 120v -- Use this for lights in\around your rack, and add a plug near the rack so you can use this for lights \ other misc in front of rack, and also in case you have breaker issue with the larger you could use this for equip you want on NOW (ie: your router and POE gear)

If you want to add a "kill switch" the cheapest way is going to be adding an AC Disconnect, they'll come per-packaged with what you need, and come in various sizes. Like an AC you'd want to place this within view of your rack so you can hit it quick and easy, so not behind cabinets, cupboards, not behind the boat always in the garage you can't get to, etc...

 

[piranha32]

I have an electrician coming to do some things. I was thinking while they're here, it might be time to have proper 30amp circuits installed so I can fully utilize my 3000w UPS, and not worry about burning the house down.

Curious if there is anything I should ask for or look into for future planning, safety, convenience etc that you guys aware of.

Would it be worth it to install a kill switch (other than the breaker) and or a inline power meter or idunno.

Since you're planning to install a new circuit, why don't you switch to running servers on 240V instead of 120? Most computer and network equipment can operate on 120 and 240 by default, power supplies are more efficient when running on higher voltage, and you can switch thick, stiff and heavy 120v power cords to much more easily manageable 240v versions.

 

[zunder1990]

Since you're planning to install a new circuit, why don't you switch to running servers on 240V instead of 120? Most computer and network equipment can operate on 120 and 240 by default, power supplies are more efficient when running on higher voltage, and you can switch thick, stiff and heavy 120v power cords to much more easily manageable 240v versions.

That does not work in the USA, home power is 240 volt over 2 hot wires, the 240 volt at datacenters is 240 volt over 1 single hot leg.

 

[piranha32]

That does not work in the USA, home power is 240 volt over 2 hot wires, the 240 volt at datacenters is 240 volt over 1 single hot leg.

I live in the US, and I'm very well aware of the setup here. Well-designed power supplies in computer equipment are not polarized, so there is no danger of shorting one leg to the ground. Many countries with 240V in the outlets don't use polarized plugs, and all equipment works no matter which way you connect the cord.

 

[opensourcefan]

Usually the cost is in running the wires, so if you're running them already adding a few more won't bump the cost much.
I suggest running more wire and conduit (if you're running conduit) than you plan to use.

• If running conduit, and running 1, run 2 or 3 so you can add more power or data lines in the future.
• Get 2x 30AMP, one on each 120v leg. (So you can add more equipment later, and if needed swap in case one side has issues and you need to keep something running.) This also gives you the ability to re-use some of these wires in the future for a single 50amp breaker\220v outlet should you update\change your PDU\BBU. (I try to make sure to put it NOT on the same leg as your 120v refrig or other leg with motor going on\off -- you can't avoid it 100%, but the fridge is usually it in the home that goes on\off... most new ACs are inverter \ not huge load on startup anymore so that's good)
• Run 1x 15 or 20amp 120v -- Use this for lights in\around your rack, and add a plug near the rack so you can use this for lights \ other misc in front of rack, and also in case you have breaker issue with the larger you could use this for equip you want on NOW (ie: your router and POE gear)

If you want to add a "kill switch" the cheapest way is going to be adding an AC Disconnect, they'll come per-packaged with what you need, and come in various sizes. Like an AC you'd want to place this within view of your rack so you can hit it quick and easy, so not behind cabinets, cupboards, not behind the boat always in the garage you can't get to, etc...

I think I'm going to hand your post over to the electrician, thank you!

I already have a few separate 15amp circuits close by, just nothing higher. I would love to add two 30amp circuits but I don't think I have enough service (125amp) room for that, probably something I should have added to my original post.

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@piranha32

I briefly thought about 240 but really want to keep the potential confusion down and keep it usable for the next project.