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Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching)

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tubs-ffm

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Sep 1, 2013
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What is the difference of Fastiron switching software (SPS) to routing software (SPR) when only using L2 functions?

Up to know I always was using the routing software on a 7250 and a 7150. On one device I use routing functions. The other switch I am using as L2 only but with SPR software just because I am familiar with how to set it up. What benefit I would get changing to SPS software? I assume there must be any as otherwise there would be no reason the SPS software exits.
 

i386

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Mar 18, 2016
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What is the difference of Fastiron switching software (SPS) to routing software (SPR) when only using L2 functions?
None.
I would always use the image that has the "most complete" features. In case you want to try/have to use a certain feature you don't have to reflash your switch.
 

tubs-ffm

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Sep 1, 2013
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None.
I would always use the image that has the "most complete" features. In case you want to try/have to use a certain feature you don't have to reflash your switch.
Thank you. I thought there might be a reason for the existence of the L2 software with reduced functionality.

What I had in my mind is that it could be less power hungry what would end up in a cooler fanless device.
 

kpfleming

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Dec 28, 2021
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I would always use the image that has the "most complete" features. In case you want to try/have to use a certain feature you don't have to reflash your switch.
Thanks for that; I'm about to replace a stack with a new stack, and will be using only L2 features on the new stack, so had considered using the SPS firmware instead of SPR.
 

fohdeesha

Kaini Industries
Nov 20, 2016
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Thank you. I thought there might be a reason for the existence of the L2 software with reduced functionality.

What I had in my mind is that it could be less power hungry what would end up in a cooler fanless device.
there's no power or heat difference in the images. the old l2 only images are a holdover from the Foundry days (before brocade bought them) and resulted in smaller images for devices with smaller flash, and some specific FIPS/security situations where a vendor might not allow certain software packages etc. no reason to use the l2 images now and just creates a big PITA if you ever want any of the features in the main image
 
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i386

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I would agree to a certain degree for user applications, but if somebody has access to the cli of your switch and has the permissions to execute commands you already have other problems than l3 functionality :D

edit:fixed typos
 

TonyArrr

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Sep 22, 2021
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Straylia
I would agree to a certain degree for user applications, but if somebody has access to the cli of your switch and has the permissions to execute commands you already have other problems than l3 functionality :D

edit:fixed typos
And how do you get to having CLI access when the equipment owner doesn’t want you to? Exploit bugs and vulnerabilities in the software, firmware and hardware that make up the equipment.

So by having less software when it is not needed, it means there is less “surface” that a hostile party can use to break into your equipment.

Security isn’t a reason to use less software if that software is fulfilling a need, but if you have no need for the software and security is a concern, it’s a good idea to remove the unused software.

in a home use setting, going down to the switch only software is probably gonna be overkill, given homes are lesser targets for most black hat hacking, but in large businesses and up, that level of control can be an important step
 
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Xoid

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Nov 14, 2018
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Anyone know if any of these switches are short depth (i.e. 14" or shorter)? With 12x or 24x SFP+ ports? Understandably the short depth is not very popular in enterprise so there's not many around, but wondering if any were made and if there are any model numbers I should be looking for.
 
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NablaSquaredG

Bringing 100G switches to homelabs
Aug 17, 2020
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Anyone know if any of these switches are short depth (i.e. 14" or shorter)? With 12x or 24x SPF+ ports? Understandably the short depth is not very popular in enterprise so there's not many around, but wondering if any were made and if there are any model numbers I should be looking for.
Nope, none of the old ones.

The only one that would fit your requirements is the new ICX 8200-24FX with 11in depth.

In theory, there is also the ICX7150-24F, but it seems like it never even hit the market to begin with. There was an "Ruckus Emergency End of Sale Announcement – Ruckus ICX7250, ICX7150-C08PT, ICX7150-C08P and ICX7150-24F"

All of 6610, 6650, 7450, 7750, 7850 are too deep
 
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jagsta21

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Feb 23, 2023
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would I be better off purchasing a 7250-48 for 450$ or a 6450-48p for 160$?
I guess what I'm asking is. is the "newer ness" of the 7250 worth the price increase over the 6450?
 

TonyArrr

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Sep 22, 2021
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So looking for some input and advice. A request for comment, if you will.

I've in the midst of upgrading my home network, mostly to get as much of it off wifi as possible.
While figuring out how I want to set it up for myself, it occurs to me that in the event I sell up, I'll need to strip out a pile of the configuration so that future owners can still use the wired network with their own gear.

What I have that I plan to be a "fixture", that is, remains here as part of the apartment:
  • ICX 7250-24P: The "core switch", being racked in the top of the cupboard where internet comes into the apartment
  • ICX 7150-24: The switch for my office, racked with my Server and connecting my 3 Desktop computers (plus providing a easy point for me to connect new devices near a screen for configuration/testing before moving them to a more permanent home). In event of a move, I might swap this with a ICX 7150-C12P
  • ICX 7150-C12P: Going down by the entertainment unit to connect a gaming computer, some consoles, streaming box and the TV
  • Two short range 2.4GHz APs powered by POE (models not yet decided): The interference is so bad here, that small wifi devices, like those usually used in IoT devices like my ceiling fans and energy monitor, are not powerful enough to get their signal back through to the main AP. By putting them each back into their setup mode where they broadcast their own network, I was able to map out that there is no one spot in the apartment they can all reach, but there are 2 spots that would cover all of them, so I'm putting a small AP in each spot. These will be on their "own" network, not connected to the internet. Planning for them to be managed together through some sort of controller software so there is one place to manage them both. Likely Unifi for now, as HomeAssistant can be that controller.
  • A "TinyMiniMicro"-esque box for VMs: Will run a HomeAssistant instance that has the "fixed" IoT devices all controlled from, and a PFSense instance to act as DHCP and DNS for the IoT stuff. I may run other VMs there that are network related, but remove them if I move out.
On top of that, I would have my own Wifi AP which would not stay here if I moved, for stuff like my Tablet, Phone, things that Ethernet is not an option for but that are internet connected, including guest devices. My office desk is the best location for this AP to cover the whole apartment. Unfortunately not a big enough place for Roaming to work, otherwise I'd use the other two APs for this.

The physical layout, from internet inwards, goes:
  1. Modem, connects via Cat6 to:
  2. Firewall (probably as a VM on the TMM box), connects via DAC or Cat6 to:
  3. ICX 7250-24P, connects via 10Gbe over OM4/5 to #4 and #5, connects via Cat6 to #6 on a separate IoT VLAN
  4. ICX 7150-24 (or C12P, as appropriate): hosts client devices, and connects the main network AP (I'll leave a post-it saying this is the best spot for the new owner's wifi :p)
  5. ICX 7150-C12P, connecting whatever is in where the TV antenna connection is (so most likely TV, Consoles, etc). Might have the VLAN trunked to it for connecting devices you won't want phoning home, but do want to control. Effected ports would be labeled.
  6. The 2.4Ghz APs.
Along with the Optics I'm putting in the wall, I'm pulling Cat6 along to all the same places, which I'll be using as either a management network or backup lines in case a SFP module fails, but new owners could just use as their networking if they didn't want to use the SFP capable switches.

So what I'm wondering is how would you configure the ICX's in this layout, so that they would work with an unknown modem and a unknown wifi AP being installed without needing to be configured by whoever installs them? A VLAN being trunked to the TMM and the 2.4Ghz APs seems an obvious inclusion, but what else would I need to do?

Now I know some might say "why do planning for someone who might live here in the future?"
I have a few reasons for thinking about this.
  1. it might be a minor selling point (particularly over other nearby apartments) that there is a capable wired network to keep their netflix and video gaming stutter free in this grossly overcongested wireless environment, that they can just plug their stuff into and it will work.
  2. a neat experiment in configuration for me to do, since everything I've done networking-wise for the last decade has been to my specific needs, so figuring out making it all work for someone else's use case, or to more broadly work without specific uses in mind, seems like a good bit of practice.
  3. I want to leave the "smarts" of the hardwired IoT devices working for future owners, without having to leave them a pile of manuals to read to configure each one, so having the IoT wifi and HomeAssistant "embedded" in the home enables this, and the wired network partially configured enables that. There are a pile of things, light switches, ceiling fans, extraction fans, the air con, which I've rigged to be able to work remotely through HomeAssistant, although they are also all fully functional using their older "dumb" controls.
  4. If I figure this out now, when the walls are all wired I can do that config, test it works, and export the configs before doing the configuration that is more specific to my use of the network. Won't have to try figure that out when selling up to have it set and ready to go.
  5. What can I say, I'm a nice guy? Maybe it will inspire the new owners into becoming homelabbers?
So I'm posting here because I figure all the config I would need to do on my way out will be on the ICX's, and no one knows them better than the folks in this thread! (I can cut this out and make it all it's own post if you like).

And I'm not necessarily looking for anyone here to post a "do this config <code>", rather for the board strokes, like "you'll need to configure x, y and z to support a, b and c" so I can go looking into how I do that with a bit of a plan, rather than going in blind.

I did do my CCNA back like a decade and a half ago, but immediately got into a IT career that had absolutely no use for anything networking, so the knowledge has well and truely evaporated. I'm not starting from zero, but far enough back that I need the prodding :)

Anyway, hope some of you may have ideas, or even experience planning out something similar! Thanks in advance, and for reading!
 

Xoid

New Member
Nov 14, 2018
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So looking for some input and advice. A request for comment, if you will.

I've in the midst of upgrading my home network, mostly to get as much of it off wifi as possible.
While figuring out how I want to set it up for myself, it occurs to me that in the event I sell up, I'll need to strip out a pile of the configuration so that future owners can still use the wired network with their own gear.

What I have that I plan to be a "fixture", that is, remains here as part of the apartment
I think your ambitions are noble, but it's probably not worth the effort. It won't really be a selling point, if anything it will be probably be a headache for the new owner. Most people are content with their ISP router/modem and a dumb switch. The only selling point is the wiring. But that's just a nice-to-have, it won't really affect the sale price in reality.

If I were you I would just configure everything to work the best for your situation and rip it out when you sell.

Same with the IoT stuff. Set it up the way you want, and just leave the dumb controls for the next person. They can adopt it to their own smart home system if they want. I wouldn't want to be responsible for supporting any of it when I sell the property.
 

tubs-ffm

Active Member
Sep 1, 2013
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  • ICX 7150-24: The switch for my office, racked with my Server and connecting my 3 Desktop computers (plus providing a easy point for me to connect new devices near a screen for configuration/testing before moving them to a more permanent home). In event of a move, I might swap this with a ICX 7150-C12P
Here I would go with ICX 7150-24P in fanless mode or with your optional ICX 7150-C12P to get PoE. You wrote that you want to use AP at this switch and you want to test and configure devices. You want to get PoE here, I believe. My personal opinion, don't go with a fan powered device next to your desk.

  • Two short range 2.4GHz APs powered by POE (models not yet decided): The interference is so bad here, that small wifi devices, like those usually used in IoT devices like my ceiling fans and energy monitor, are not powerful enough to get their signal back through to the main AP. By putting them each back into their setup mode where they broadcast their own network, I was able to map out that there is no one spot in the apartment they can all reach, but there are 2 spots that would cover all of them, so I'm putting a small AP in each spot. These will be on their "own" network, not connected to the internet. Planning for them to be managed together through some sort of controller software so there is one place to manage them both. Likely Unifi for now, as HomeAssistant can be that controller.
Here I cannot follow. But for me it is hard to imagine where "one network" (SSID) that is span via multiples AP across the whole location. These can be connected wired to your switches in the best case wherever is possible or connected wireless by mash. Multiple networks with multiple SSID and VLAN are possible for sure.

As your are using 100% Ruckus switches I would recommend Ruckus AP with Ruckus unleashed. Ruckus unleashed gives you the possibility to manage all AP via a web interface. No controller required, one AP is the controller and all other could be fall back. If you WiFi 5 fulfills your needs, go with Ruckus R710, R610 or R320 depending on the power you need. If you need WiFi 6 go with an R750, R650 or R350. Ruckus unleashed even gives the possibility to integrate all your ICX switches for monitor purposes. In such a centrally managed network that is span across the complete location you have the plausibility to provide certain SSID only at certain APs. The bigger enterprise APs mange their power level in such a network to get best overlapping situation.

I cannot imagine a use case as you described where separate AP with separate SSID gives any benefit. Maybe there are.

Along with the Optics I'm putting in the wall, I'm pulling Cat6 along to all the same places, which I'll be using as either a management network or backup lines in case a SFP module fails, but new owners could just use as their networking if they didn't want to use the SFP capable switches.
Optics is a good way to connect infrastructure devices. I do not know how much effort it is in your case for puling all the cables. Today 10 GBit is fine. Think about if it is worth to spend a little bit more for the cables to be 100 GBit ready.
 
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TonyArrr

Active Member
Sep 22, 2021
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Straylia
I think your ambitions are noble, but it's probably not worth the effort. It won't really be a selling point, if anything it will be probably be a headache for the new owner. Most people are content with their ISP router/modem and a dumb switch. The only selling point is the wiring. But that's just a nice-to-have, it won't really affect the sale price in reality.

If I were you I would just configure everything to work the best for your situation and rip it out when you sell.

Same with the IoT stuff. Set it up the way you want, and just leave the dumb controls for the next person. They can adopt it to their own smart home system if they want. I wouldn't want to be responsible for supporting any of it when I sell the property.
I didn’t mean selling point like to make more money off it, more like a item to help pad the feature list. Maybe get a “oooohhhh, aaaahhhhhh”.

Kind of the point I’m looking for is so it’s not a headache for future owners to use. Kind of thinking along the lines of leaving it in a state where they can plug the WAN line into their ISP provided router/modem, and the loose end of a LAN-labelled cable going to the switch, and then have all the wired end points just work for whatever they plug in.

But all in all, I know it wouldn’t be something to do in terms of getting the effort’s worth from a future owner (I have precisely zero plans of moving), but I felt like having that sort of configuration would make good learning experience for myself, giving me an opportunity to do things other than the exact configuration I use for my networking needs. So I guess the payback for the effort would be in the doing it and having it work ^_^

And there’s not much to worry about having to support them for the home automation side. You don’t really meet the original owners when buying and sellinghomes over here, so they aren’t gonna be able to call up and ask for help. Plan is to leave a list of usernames and passwords, a QR code to HomeAssistant’s documentation, and a USB with a backup of the configuration as basic fallback in case of breaking it. Leave the Google Assistant and Homekit inclusions running and they can sort the rest out if they want it.

But yes, I am going to configure it all exactly right for me, just want a fallback config I could leave for the bits I leave here. Like I said, I don’t actually plan to move in the future, but if I ever reached the point I was financial enough to afford it, I’d wanna kit out with a core switch that could push 10Gbe to everything, not just 4-8 things :p hopefully the more recent 7xxx series would be affordable on eBay by then haha
 

TonyArrr

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Sep 22, 2021
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My personal opinion, don't go with a fan powered device next to your desk.
Can I get an amen!
The non-poe was a cool 800 bucks less than the poe models I had seen over the previous 2ish months before I bought. Thankfully, no shortage of power points there, and the circuit is overprovisioned at the switchboard so I’ll survive the lack of power

Here I cannot follow. But for me it is hard to imagine where "one network" (SSID) that is span via multiples AP across the whole location. These can be connected wired to your switches in the best case wherever is possible or connected wireless by mash. Multiple networks with multiple SSID and VLAN are possible for sure.
So it’s not an issue of getting the IoT devices to see my wifi network, it’s an issue of them being able to transmit back to the AP. Most of them are little ESP devices, so when they try to transmit information to the wifi network, they often time out, with the AP never receiving the message. I’ve put it down to interference from all the wifi networks from other apartments. When I use Netspot, there’s a minimum of three independent networks for every channel, and when I look for the captive network a bare ESP32 is broadcasting as a test, it stops being visible when moved about 4 meters from the desktop running netspot.

I did the same test at my folks, with the same desktop and ESP, and it had good signal strength to about 30 meters (then it dropped below -80 RSSI). They are in a detached house, and you can only faintly detect one other network from a neighbour.

With some playing around with a really long Ethernet cable and a travel Wifi AP, I found a spot at each end of the apartment where the wifi IoT devices would connect and stay connected while the AP was there, so while we run the cables in the roof and walls, I figured I’d put a AP in each spot and power them over twisted pair.

As your are using 100% Ruckus switches I would recommend Ruckus AP with Ruckus unleashed. Ruckus unleashed gives you the possibility to manage all AP via a web interface. No controller required, one AP is the controller and all other could be fall back. If you WiFi 5 fulfills your needs, go with Ruckus R710, R610 or R320 depending on the power you need. If you need WiFi 6 go with an R750, R650 or R350. Ruckus unleashed even gives the possibility to integrate all your ICX switches for monitor purposes. In such a centrally managed network that is span across the complete location you have the plausibility to provide certain SSID only at certain APs. The bigger enterprise APs mange their power level in such a network to get best overlapping situation.
Ruckus Unleashed, ay… I will definitely look at that.
Honestly, the tablet and phone are basically for messaging and web browsing, and I don’t really consume video off the net a la YouTube, social media, so I don’t even really need high bandwidth wifi for them. Everything that I need lots of bandwidth for is connected by copper Ethernet at the moment, the upgrade is moving all that into the walls instead of along skirting boards.

I cannot imagine a use case as you described where separate AP with separate SSID gives any benefit. Maybe there are.
Yeah, it’s a pickle, hey? The multiple APs are to have APs in range so that the low powered devices can reach them, and it doesn’t matter how powerful a single AP I can get, it won’t make the signal coming back from the devices stronger, and it can’t clean up the interference from all the other networks that drowns them out.
If I could, I’d spend a week going around the apartments, help everyone tune their wifi routers TX levels and channel choices to work more harmoniously, I really would! But apparently that would be “weird” and “off putting”. And I’d have to spend some time doing it to every new person’s router too ;)

I probably could use the two APs for my main network too, have it on the 5ghz and VLAN off the 2.4Ghz, since all my “client” devices that use wifi are happy enough on 5Ghz, however I don’t know how far apart they need to be to support roaming connections. Still could be worth doing.

Optics is a good way to connect infrastructure devices. I do not know how much effort it is in your case for puling all the cables. Today 10 GBit is fine. Think about if it is worth to spend a little bit more for the cables to be 100 GBit ready.
Yeah, we’re cutting open most of the walls and roof to remove a failed aircon unit, it’s drain pipe and coolant pipes, and installing its (more powerful) replacement in a different part of the unit that will let it reach the bedrooms and kitchen better. When I worked out everything we’re opening for that, I realised that I could network everything and only open 3 more spots, so why not?

And getting in there is such a nightmare as it is, I figured putting in optics means there will never be a reason to open the walls again. I’m gonna try and push flexible conduit just in case, but not sure how that’s gonna turn out.
Pretty sure the optics will be OM5, since it has more multiplexing possible, so highest possible bandwidth, and it really doesn’t cost any different to OM4 anyway, not at the lengths I’d be getting :)
I did consider OS2 since it nearly has a limitless ceiling, but even the short range transceivers get well pricey, well fast!

Thanks for the viewpoints, it does really help just to see what questions come to mind for others looking at it all!
 

kpfleming

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Dec 28, 2021
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Thanks for the viewpoints, it does really help just to see what questions come to mind for others looking at it all!
Just another thing to consider... here in the US for some time a major homebuilder (Lennar) was pre-installing 7150-C12Ps and a single Ruckus AP in many of the homes they sold, to 'make things easier' for homebuyers.

The Ruckus forums are full of posts from people who have no idea what to do with this stuff, especially when it doesn't continue working in bare-bones single-VLAN-single-SSID mode, and I suspect that for a while the reason that -C12Ps were so cheap on eBay is because they were being pulled out of these houses.

I'll echo the comments from another reply: ensure that the cabling is easily usable should the next homeowner want to use it, and ensure that any home controls are usable without the automation tooling that you use, and that's sufficient. If, and only if, you get an interested buyer who indicates that they'd like to purchase the networking equipment as-installed, then offer it to them (same as a buyer paying for 'optional' appliances already installed in the house).
 
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Offspring

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I bought an ICX6450-48p a couple years back, and never got around to updating/flashing the firmware, which I finally did last weekend. Everything seemed to be going great, except I'm seeing severe limits on the transfer speeds, both across the internet and locally, capping out at 100Mbit/sec even though I'm either running gigabit or 10Gbit.

I've tried swapping the cables, and I've changed ports but if I try to use the ICX6450, I'm being severely limited and I don't see anything in the config that might be causing that, so I'm hoping someone else might have seen something similar and knows what the cause is, so I can go about unlocking the full gigabit/10Gb speeds.

Thanks.
 

tubs-ffm

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Sep 1, 2013
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I've tried swapping the cables, and I've changed ports but if I try to use the ICX6450, I'm being severely limited and I don't see anything in the config that might be causing that, so I'm hoping someone else might have seen something similar and knows what the cause is, so I can go about unlocking the full gigabit/10Gb speeds.
What is limiting your switch to 100 Mbit I do not know. But did you unlocked the licence to get 10 GBit capability?
ICX6450 Licensing - Fohdeesha Docs