Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching)

[Drewy]

indeed, you can follow the guide from just the UFI subsection to flash the new 8095d ufi image, it'll handle flashing it to all stack members ICX7250 / ICX7450 - Fohdeesha Docs

thanks guys.

 

[nickf1227]

Since it's the same firmware as my 7450 stack, just update the active master and it will handle updating stack members and performing a rolling restart. Anything that's cross-chassis LAG'd will have no downtime.

Just make sure if you are pre8080 you go to 8080 first then to current.

 

[mmx]

I love the revisions done to the guide!

Also, hack the planet!

EDIT: The serial number has 2 interpretations. Can I share my findings?

 

[fohdeesha]

I love the revisions done to the guide!

Also, hack the planet!

EDIT: The serial number has 2 interpretations. Can I share my findings?

Go for it although it looks like you noticed the LID hash already

 

[mmx]

Go for it although it looks like you noticed the LID hash already

First one I came up with was: "a beef box jk" lol

My second interpretation/guess was a word similar to your username, but wasn't able to make it work.

 

[fohdeesha]

First one I came up with was: "a beef box jk" lol

My second interpretation/guess was a word similar to your username, but wasn't able to make it work.

Hehe yeah I don't think there's any sense to be made of the serial, it's what fastiron hashes it into for the chassis license ID that's the joke

 

[rootwyrm]

I also found the same thing as mentioned further down from the quoted message, even though the pins are gone, the heatsink cannot be removed with any reasonable amount of twisting force.

Does anyone know exactly where/how to order the pins and springs? Unless these are glued well enough that the pins aren't really a concern? And just as a curiosity thing, why one chip lived life hotter than the other? Switch seems to work just fine as far as I've tested it.

The heatsink being unable to be removed is not a good sign. It means the TIM has likely failed. These do not use paste or thin pads, they use special impregnated fabric which has limited adhesive properties. When it fails it can turn into the consistency of glue or epoxy. The only way to remove it is to heat things up (carefully) until it lets go again.
Do NOT use thermal paste, silicone, or closed cell pads as a replacement. This way baked devices lie, because the already marginal interface will be terrible. I recommend Fujipoly SARCON Form-In-Place SPG-25B or SPG-30 as an alternative, the ODM equivalent (superior) is Fujipoly SARCON NR-Tc, or Fujipoly Extremely Compressible PG25A or above.

The pushpin setup is almost always specific to the device, but they are a very common part. You can use a nut-and-bolt setup (USE LOCTITE! they will back out) in a pinch as long as you're extremely careful not to over-tighten. If you have to go metallic, you must insulate because the mounting holes have ground plane pads. It's almost impossible to find pushpins in anything less than qty 100, but you can try ATS at Digikey.

 

[ZFSZealot]

The heatsink being unable to be removed is not a good sign. It means the TIM has likely failed. These do not use paste or thin pads, they use special impregnated fabric which has limited adhesive properties. When it fails it can turn into the consistency of glue or epoxy. The only way to remove it is to heat things up (carefully) until it lets go again.
Do NOT use thermal paste, silicone, or closed cell pads as a replacement. This way baked devices lie, because the already marginal interface will be terrible. I recommend Fujipoly SARCON Form-In-Place SPG-25B or SPG-30 as an alternative, the ODM equivalent (superior) is Fujipoly SARCON NR-Tc, or Fujipoly Extremely Compressible PG25A or above.

The pushpin setup is almost always specific to the device, but they are a very common part. You can use a nut-and-bolt setup (USE LOCTITE! they will back out) in a pinch as long as you're extremely careful not to over-tighten. If you have to go metallic, you must insulate because the mounting holes have ground plane pads. It's almost impossible to find pushpins in anything less than qty 100, but you can try ATS at Digikey.

Oh wow. I'm assuming TIM is "thermal interface material"? If the device appears to still work properly, this is still something that has to be addressed, correct?

Is this a common issue with the 6610's or did I just get lucky?

Also, I had thought about using a bolt and nut setup, but with a nyloc nut and the springs that I was able to recover, is that a reasonable option?

Here are temperatures, it's idle but nothing seems too far out of line?

ICX6610-48_01#sh chassis
The stack unit 1 chassis info:

Power supply 1 (AC - Regular) present, status ok
        Model Number:   23-0000144-01
        Serial Number:  0VH    
        Firmware Ver:    B
Power supply 1 Fan Air Flow Direction:  Front to Back
Power supply 2 (AC - Regular) present, status ok
        Model Number:   23-0000144-01
        Serial Number:  04S    
        Firmware Ver:    B
Power supply 2 Fan Air Flow Direction:  Front to Back

Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 2 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2

Fan controlled temperature: 62.0 deg-C

Fan speed switching temperature thresholds:
                Speed 1: NM<----->78       deg-C
                Speed 2:       73<-----> 84 deg-C (shutdown)

Fan 1 Air Flow Direction:  Front to Back
Fan 2 Air Flow Direction:  Front to Back                        
MAC 1 Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 43.5 deg-C
MAC 2 Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 56.0 deg-C
CPU Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 62.5 deg-C
sensor A Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 46.5 deg-C
sensor B Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 49.0 deg-C
sensor C Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 40.5 deg-C
stacking card Temperature Readings:
        Current temperature : 48.0 deg-C
        Warning level.......: 81.0 deg-C
        Shutdown level......: 84.0 deg-C

 

[Nnyan]

I’m thinking of getting a 6450 since I really don’t like junos on the 3300ex I just picked up. I’m not doing anything too fancy on it (some L3 routing and VLANs) but I prefer a workable UI. What’s the brocades like?

 

[fohdeesha]

I’m thinking of getting a 6450 since I really don’t like junos on the 3300ex I just picked up. I’m not doing anything too fancy on it (some L3 routing and VLANs) but I prefer a workable UI. What’s the brocades like?

Uis are bad no UI bad bad

 

[nerdalertdk]

Hi

Any know how to silence the fans in my ICX7150-48ZP

 

[mwarps]

Hi

Any know how to silence the fans in my ICX7150-48ZP

There's 301 pages of glorious info to pick through in this thread.

 

[ljvb]

How has this last update not also updated the ssh key algorythms.. serious.. diffie-hellman-group1-sha1 has been obsolete and vulnerable for over a decade.

 

[Vesalius]

There's 301 pages of glorious info to pick through in this thread.

The 7150-48zp is a newer and different beast with little info on it in this thread because only recently could they be found used here or there for less than 1-2k.

 

[nerdalertdk]

There's 301 pages of glorious info to pick through in this thread.

I know, but I think we are only 2-5 people here who have that switch and it uses fans with 6 wires (hot plug) and hot plug psu

 

[tozmo]

The 7150-48zp is a newer and different beast with little info on it in this thread because only recently could they be found used here or there for less than 1-2k.

not to brag, but I got mine for free off eBay because the 2.5 side doesn’t work and the seller didn’t want it back (and refunded me whole). I’m slowly working toward the fan mod like the 6610 with the 2x120 on plexiglass. Photos when I’m done

 

[Vesalius]

not to brag, but I got mine for free off eBay because the 2.5 side doesn’t work and the seller didn’t want it back (and refunded me whole). I’m slowly working toward the fan mod like the 6610 with the 2x120 on plexiglass. Photos when I’m done

A free icx7150-24p ain’t bad at all even if it is louder than the original.

 

[ccie4526]

Uis are bad no UI bad bad

CLI the best UI !

 

[nlj]

Hi all, I'm new to STH Forums but have been lurking this thread for quite some time! I picked up a ICX 7250-24 recently, and am looking forward to using it in my homelab!

Like so many homelabbers, I find the stock Foxconn PIA040H12P fan to be much too loud for where my lab is located. So I've been on a venture to find a fan that keeps the 7250 cool while also being nice and quiet.

@rootwyrm I tried your suggestion of the Delta EFB0412VHD-F00 but the temp just keeps creeping up. After an hour of running idle, the switch is at 93 deg C and continues to climb. This seems a little toasty to me since there's only about 10 deg C headroom until thermal shutdown. I also want to avoid oscillating between fan speed 1 and 2.

I took a look and found a few other fans that seem to move a bit more air, and was wondering what your thoughts might be on them:

Mfr/model​	Size​	Air flow​	Static Pressure​	Noise​	Fan speed​	Price​
Delta FFB0412VHN-F00	40mm x 28mm D	15.8 cfm	0.509 in H2O	45 dBA	9500 rpm	$14.31
Sanyo Denki 109P0412G3013	40mm x 28mm D	14.8 cfm	0.719 in H2O	42 dBA	11500 rpm	$10.51
Sanyo Denki 109P0412B3013	40mm x 28mm D	13.4 cfm	0.574 in H2O	40 dBA	10300 rpm	$10.24
[COMPARE] Delta EFB0412VHD-F00	40mm x 20mm D	10.1 cfm	0.416 in H2O	32.5 dBA	9000 rpm	$12.57

It seems like the 109P0412G3013 might be the most promising, as it has the highest static pressure of the bunch and moves a bit more air per minute, but I am curious to hear what you think.

Thanks so much!

 

[csnaze]

I have the same issue. I'm running firmware version 08.0.30tT313. If it's a software bug, it is not patched in later versions.

It may be of interest to you that I have operated my switch for a day with the fan completely unplugged. It is sandwiched between two (relatively low powered) machines in my rack. The highest temperature I have noticed is 66C on Sensor A. It's little warm, but about 10 degrees below the shutdown level.
I have yet to install any 10Gig modules. While I anticipate they could raise the temperature a non insignificant amount, I have some hopes that this switch can be ran indefinitely with no fan.

A possible alternative is to splice a 100 Ohm resistor into the fan cable. At ~4.5V the fan is still louder than I prefer (completely silent), but it is a big improvement over stock. I don't have any heat shrink handy or I would perform this mod and call it a day.

I also have this issue, but after the resistor trick, my 6450-48 is a lot quieter. Is it a defect in the design that these PWM circuits fail so commonly?