One of the many reasons I advise people to pretend like the web UI doesn't exist I think my favorite is the ICX6430 having a BGP checkbox (it doesn't even run layer 3 images)
Since it's the same firmware as my 7450 stack, just update the active master and it will handle updating stack members and performing a rolling restart. Anything that's cross-chassis LAG'd will have no downtime.Thank You, you’re a star.
what’s the recommended method of upgrading a stack? Un-stack and do them one at a time?
ive got a pair of stacked 7250’s.
indeed, you can follow the guide from just the UFI subsection to flash the new 8095d ufi image, it'll handle flashing it to all stack members ICX7250 / ICX7450 - Fohdeesha DocsSince it's the same firmware as my 7450 stack, just update the active master and it will handle updating stack members and performing a rolling restart. Anything that's cross-chassis LAG'd will have no downtime.
This is really digging up bones, sorry, this is one of the few mentions I've found for this happening, this is specific to the ICX6610.Does anyone have a scrap mainboard? I need two replacement push pins for the main routing IC heatsinks. I guess they failed with heat and age.
View attachment 9590
Before I start bricking stuff, I'm looking to upgrade my 7150-C12 to 8090k from the fohdeesha default 8080. Guides/videos talk about usb upgrade, but before I brick it, they mention the security of NOT having a cfg installed when going to upgrade.
So... how do you do that? I have the ICX7150 and manifest files on my usb, but how else do I prepare the switch for the upgrade? Is there a doc that I didn't see about "simple" upgrade paths?
thanks guys.indeed, you can follow the guide from just the UFI subsection to flash the new 8095d ufi image, it'll handle flashing it to all stack members ICX7250 / ICX7450 - Fohdeesha Docs
Just make sure if you are pre8080 you go to 8080 first then to current.Since it's the same firmware as my 7450 stack, just update the active master and it will handle updating stack members and performing a rolling restart. Anything that's cross-chassis LAG'd will have no downtime.
Go for it although it looks like you noticed the LID hash alreadyI love the revisions done to the guide!
Also, hack the planet!
EDIT: The serial number has 2 interpretations. Can I share my findings?
First one I came up with was: "a beef box jk" lolGo for it although it looks like you noticed the LID hash already
Hehe yeah I don't think there's any sense to be made of the serial, it's what fastiron hashes it into for the chassis license ID that's the jokeFirst one I came up with was: "a beef box jk" lol
My second interpretation/guess was a word similar to your username, but wasn't able to make it work.
The heatsink being unable to be removed is not a good sign. It means the TIM has likely failed. These do not use paste or thin pads, they use special impregnated fabric which has limited adhesive properties. When it fails it can turn into the consistency of glue or epoxy. The only way to remove it is to heat things up (carefully) until it lets go again.I also found the same thing as mentioned further down from the quoted message, even though the pins are gone, the heatsink cannot be removed with any reasonable amount of twisting force.
Does anyone know exactly where/how to order the pins and springs? Unless these are glued well enough that the pins aren't really a concern? And just as a curiosity thing, why one chip lived life hotter than the other? Switch seems to work just fine as far as I've tested it.
Oh wow. I'm assuming TIM is "thermal interface material"? If the device appears to still work properly, this is still something that has to be addressed, correct?The heatsink being unable to be removed is not a good sign. It means the TIM has likely failed. These do not use paste or thin pads, they use special impregnated fabric which has limited adhesive properties. When it fails it can turn into the consistency of glue or epoxy. The only way to remove it is to heat things up (carefully) until it lets go again.
Do NOT use thermal paste, silicone, or closed cell pads as a replacement. This way baked devices lie, because the already marginal interface will be terrible. I recommend Fujipoly SARCON Form-In-Place SPG-25B or SPG-30 as an alternative, the ODM equivalent (superior) is Fujipoly SARCON NR-Tc, or Fujipoly Extremely Compressible PG25A or above.
The pushpin setup is almost always specific to the device, but they are a very common part. You can use a nut-and-bolt setup (USE LOCTITE! they will back out) in a pinch as long as you're extremely careful not to over-tighten. If you have to go metallic, you must insulate because the mounting holes have ground plane pads. It's almost impossible to find pushpins in anything less than qty 100, but you can try ATS at Digikey.
ICX6610-48_01#sh chassis
The stack unit 1 chassis info:
Power supply 1 (AC - Regular) present, status ok
Model Number: 23-0000144-01
Serial Number: 0VH
Firmware Ver: B
Power supply 1 Fan Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
Power supply 2 (AC - Regular) present, status ok
Model Number: 23-0000144-01
Serial Number: 04S
Firmware Ver: B
Power supply 2 Fan Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 2 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan controlled temperature: 62.0 deg-C
Fan speed switching temperature thresholds:
Speed 1: NM<----->78 deg-C
Speed 2: 73<-----> 84 deg-C (shutdown)
Fan 1 Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
Fan 2 Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
MAC 1 Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 43.5 deg-C
MAC 2 Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 56.0 deg-C
CPU Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 62.5 deg-C
sensor A Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 46.5 deg-C
sensor B Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 49.0 deg-C
sensor C Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 40.5 deg-C
stacking card Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 48.0 deg-C
Warning level.......: 81.0 deg-C
Shutdown level......: 84.0 deg-C
Uis are bad no UI bad badI’m thinking of getting a 6450 since I really don’t like junos on the 3300ex I just picked up. I’m not doing anything too fancy on it (some L3 routing and VLANs) but I prefer a workable UI. What’s the brocades like?
There's 301 pages of glorious info to pick through in this thread.Hi
Any know how to silence the fans in my ICX7150-48ZP