Any server rack experts here? Need help.

Fritz

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Spartacus

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We have a couple of 2950G and 3950Gs in our racks doing the same, we just put a server below it so it doesn't sag.
You do kinda have to lift the switch up to slide it in after servicing the server though.
 
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hmw

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I have a very heavy ICX6610 and a 16" deep rack, the back end of the switch would sag heavily. I also have a 1U short depth server that's just 10" deep and has the same problem - when affixed from the front, the back just sags

What I did was use this - flipped over and mounted below the ICX6610:

1613711702640.png


And for the 1U server - I used this

1613711810066.png

again, flipped over and mounted just below the server.

This allows me to slide the server and the switch in and out easily and they don't sag as they have support. Mounting the rack shelf at the back of the rack involved some acrobatics and fiddling. You might find the L shaped rails easier to mount as they actually fit on the sides of the rack posts. Very few of the L-rails have slots, most have holes and these are the most difficult to align due to tolerances
 
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Fritz

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We have a couple of 2950G and 3950Gs in our racks doing the same, we just put a server below it so it doesn't sag.
You do kinda have to lift the switch up to slide it in after servicing the server though.
I ran into this with a PDU. Problem was it stated to peel the plastic coating off the top of the server when I slid it back into the rack. Had to relocate the PDU which lead, in a roundabout way, to my current problem with the switch.
 

Fritz

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Apr 6, 2015
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I have a very heavy ICX6610 and a 16" deep rack, the back end of the switch would sag heavily. I also have a 1U short depth server that's just 10" deep and has the same problem - when affixed from the front, the back just sags

What I did was use this - flipped over and mounted below the ICX6610:

View attachment 17582


And for the 1U server - I used this

View attachment 17583

again, flipped over and mounted just below the server.

This allows me to slide the server and the switch in and out easily and they don't sag as they have support. Mounting the rack shelf at the back of the rack involved some acrobatics and fiddling. You might find the L shaped rails easier to mount as they actually fit on the sides of the rack posts. Very few of the L-rails have slots, most have holes and these are the most difficult to align due to tolerances
I have a collection of brackets like these but they wouldn't work because the switch has overly thick ears which means there's not a big enough gap for the bracket to fit. There's barely any gap at all between the switch and the rack rails. Last thing I tried was a set of brackets similar to the bottom ones except they're 2 piece. With them properly positioned the switch wouldn't slide into place.
 

penrhos

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I got a second set of ears and mounted them on the rear of the switch - then used some fencing wire to hang the rear of the switch so it wouldn't sag - only really feasible if you can access the sides of the rack though. I've used the sliding rails you get with Netscalers/nexus kit in the past and they work ok with a couple of fresh holes drilled into them.
 
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Fritz

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One side of the rack is against the wall. :(

I didn't know you could put ears on the back. That would open up more possibilities. I'll keep that in mind for the next time I do majorly mods to the rack.
 
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hmw

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I have a collection of brackets like these but they wouldn't work because the switch has overly thick ears which means there's not a big enough gap for the bracket to fit. There's barely any gap at all between the switch and the rack rails. Last thing I tried was a set of brackets similar to the bottom ones except they're 2 piece. With them properly positioned the switch wouldn't slide into place.
If you mount it this way - yes it will cause problems if there is very little space between the rack posts and the switch

1613786369897.png

But if there's 1U of space beneath, can you flip it so that the bracket is *below* the switch? (i.e. it makes an inverted L)

The other option is to use a rack shelf and mount it behind. Even if the rack is against the wall there is enough space between the posts to use your fingers to put some clip nuts and mount it with screws. Just pinch/bend the clip nut tabs so that they go in easily. Again, if the switch is so wide that there is no space between the posts and the switch, then just flip it so that the rack shelf is inverted i.e. you're using 1U of space beneath the switch

1613786873096.png
 
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Fritz

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If you mount it this way - yes it will cause problems if there is very little space between the rack posts and the switch

View attachment 17596

But if there's 1U of space beneath, can you flip it so that the bracket is *below* the switch? (i.e. it makes an inverted L)

The other option is to use a rack shelf and mount it behind. Even if the rack is against the wall there is enough space between the posts to use your fingers to put some clip nuts and mount it with screws. Just pinch/bend the clip nut tabs so that they go in easily. Again, if the switch is so wide that there is no space between the posts and the switch, then just flip it so that the rack shelf is inverted i.e. you're using 1U of space beneath the switch

View attachment 17597
Thank you sir. Great idea. Think I'm going to reopen the case in the morning.
 

Samir

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Have a Cisco switch in the rack that's long and heavy. Problem is the ass end of the switch sags badly. I went looking for a brace or bracket / support that will hold up the ass of the switch but to no avail. Ideally it needs to attach to the rack side to side and not front to back. There are a row of square holes along the sides of the rack that were obviously put there for a purpose. My needs in this case seems to be the perfect purpose for these holes. Problem is I can't find a bracket. Does one exist? I'd rather not have to fabricate one myself but will id necessary.

TIA
Do you have a picture of the holes along the sides? I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I think there may be some cheap 2x4 way of doing this, but need more details.
 

Samir

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Thank you! If that lip on that side support is towards the inside, seems like it should be pretty easy to get a board cut from home depot about 1/2" think and maybe 4-5" and wedge it in like a shelf. Then just add some more small boards on top of that until you fill the gap between the board and the bottom of the switch. Should cost maybe $10 and they'll do all the cuts for you.

If I haven't visualized this right, let me know! I'm sure I can figure out something to rig here--that side has a lot of nice holes and things to grab on to.
 
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Fritz

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Thank you! If that lip on that side support is towards the inside, seems like it should be pretty easy to get a board cut from home depot about 1/2" think and maybe 4-5" and wedge it in like a shelf. Then just add some more small boards on top of that until you fill the gap between the board and the bottom of the switch. Should cost maybe $10 and they'll do all the cuts for you.

If I haven't visualized this right, let me know! I'm sure I can figure out something to rig here--that side has a lot of nice holes and things to grab on to.
Thanks. I've decided to put it on the back burner for now. I'll revisit it some time in the future but for now I have more pressing issues to attend to.

Just lost a backplane in a SM 846 and HD in another server. When it rains it pours.
 
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Samir

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Thanks. I've decided to put it on the back burner for now. I'll revisit it some time in the future but for now I have more pressing issues to attend to.

Just lost a backplane in a SM 846 and HD in another server. When it rains it pours.
Gotcha. :) I'm subscribed to the thread so whenever you decide to pick it back up (even if years later), post up and we'll continue where we left off. :) Hope that backplane is an easy fix! Parts for those 846s have hopefully not skyrocketed in cost like the enclosures have. o_O
 
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Fritz

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Gotcha. :) I'm subscribed to the thread so whenever you decide to pick it back up (even if years later), post up and we'll continue where we left off. :) Hope that backplane is an easy fix! Parts for those 846s have hopefully not skyrocketed in cost like the enclosures have. o_O
Yea, prices are crazy. I've had my eye out for a BPN-SAS2-846EL1 for quite some time and one popped up for $69 so I jumped on it. Patience can save you a lot of money.
 
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Samir

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Yea, prices are crazy. I've had my eye out for a BPN-SAS2-846EL1 for quite some time and one popped up for $69 so I jumped on it. Patience can save you a lot of money.
Yep, there's a lot to be said for waiting for the right deal. Of course, sometimes you also just need the job to be done. I've been in both situations before and try to pick up spares (like UPS batteries) when I find the deal versus when I need it.
 
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koyetsu

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Easy solution if your side square holes are in the right spot and this should be a sub $10 fix.
2xcage nuts
1xThreaded Rod Cut to length
1xHeat Shrink

Cut threaded rod to about 20" and debur/clean up cut end
Place Cage nuts in side 1 at appropriate height.
Cut heat shrink to 2 pieces, 16" Long and the other 18.5
Place 16" heat shrink on rod centered and shrink.
Place 18.5" Heat shrink over that but do no shrink.
Thread one end of rod into M6 cage nut until clear of hole on opposite side.
Place cage nut side 2.
Thread rod into it.
Center loose heat shrink on rod and shrink it down.

That give you a cheap support that won't scratch up equipment.
If you don't care about scratches you can forgo the heat shrink.
Price, $10 with heat shrink $5 without
 
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Fritz

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Easy solution if your side square holes are in the right spot and this should be a sub $10 fix.
2xcage nuts
1xThreaded Rod Cut to length
1xHeat Shrink

Cut threaded rod to about 20" and debur/clean up cut end
Place Cage nuts in side 1 at appropriate height.
Cut heat shrink to 2 pieces, 16" Long and the other 18.5
Place 16" heat shrink on rod centered and shrink.
Place 18.5" Heat shrink over that but do no shrink.
Thread one end of rod into M6 cage nut until clear of hole on opposite side.
Place cage nut side 2.
Thread rod into it.
Center loose heat shrink on rod and shrink it down.

That give you a cheap support that won't scratch up equipment.
If you don't care about scratches you can forgo the heat shrink.
Price, $10 with heat shrink $5 without
I'd have to drop down about an inch and a half from the square hole so this won't work. But good idea tho. Maybe a couple of homemade brackets plus rod would work.