If you get the Arctic TP-3 0.5MM Thermal Pad you can stack them according to their docs.Thank you! Guess I will have to go tpad road as well, just not sure what thicknes, no 2 boards are the same. Probably will go 1mm to be sure.
I plan to use Jonsbo HX6200 with Noctua fan on top, been reading it fits ok.
It only needs to be applied to the dies.Btw did you put tpads on dyes only or on the whole raised copper plate?
also curious about thermal tests. Idle and max if you can. Did not change the paste and I was thinking the temps were a little hightJust a large goop of thermal paste.
I did try putting a small ball of thermal paste on the die (like you would a desktop cpu) and then put the head speader on and it nearly touched, not enough to spread the paste out.
So you need a lot of thermal paste to make contact between the two. But I have now put a 0.5mm thermal pad between the both and they now make contact and squish the thermal pad slightly. Great!
I will run some thermal tests as soon as I can.
Right now I am contemplating whether to use the included jonsbo HP400S cooler or not as it is VERY close the the capacitors when mounted in a specific orientation. The other 3 orientations actually make contact with components on the board...
Good luck finding an ASM2812 that is short enough to fit in this motherboard with a x4 PCIe .
- Buying a PCIe 3.0 x4 dual NVMe card (ASM2812) from AliExpress
Interesting. Though I doubt about boot time power consumption. 7 hdds spin up should be alone close to 100w, for a few seconds.I changed the thermal paste to a pad at the begining so i don't have thermals with the paste. I build my system in an old N40L case, not best option.
I need to use the stock heatsink without fan because i don't have enough space. The only fan is the 12 cm case fan and the PSU fan.
In idle with thermal pad about 48-50C in peek load it reach the thermal limit.
Power usage with a Samsung 980 nvme boot drive, 2x3.5 4TB purple, 2x3.5 1TB Toshiba and Samsung connected to a 9207 HBA and 3x2.5 500Gb HDD connected to the sata ports.
The N305 board use in idle around ~50W at boot ~70W
I running proxmox with 2 wm's and 8 container.
I don't stink the thermal paste will works in a long term, because when it dries up it's just get worse or not transfer any heat to the heatsink.
Well, that depends if the card **requires** all 8 pcie lanes as looking at the layout of some of these cards the lanes map directly to the m.2 slots. So if you plugged it in a x4 slot, there is potential only 1x m.2 card will be detected.You can use a Pcie 3.0 x4 rising cable or just use sata 2,4,6 port.
Don't do this, you have ZERO knowledge on if 0.5mm is the correct amount you need to reduce the gap by, it could be different for every board sold due to manufacturing inconsistency/tolerance.Insert a 0.5mm copper shim with thermal paste and do a CPU stress test—you'll get a big surprise.
Don't do this either, same reason as above. These are not designed to mount directly to the CPU dies and you should only do this if you know the EXACT measurements.you can try Thermalright SI-100 cpu heatsink, it is low profile cpu heatsink.
You can even buy some 8mm high ABS round spacers from Amazon to replace the spacers that come with the heatsink. This way, you can mount the SI-100 directly onto the CPU without needing the original copper heatsink.
Dies are very fragile. The cost of the motherboard is irrelevant to whether a CPU die will crack under too much pressure.Don’t think of the CPU as so fragile. Even if the motherboard bends, it won’t necessarily damage the CPU die. It’s just a $100 motherboard, but you’re acting like it’s a $10,000 one!
Everything I’ve mentioned has been tested by myself and is currently in use.
Yes you are right. The actual power consumption on boot maybe higher. I use a smart meter which doesn't gave me continous measurements.Interesting. Though I doubt about boot time power consumption. 7 hdds spin up should be alone close to 100w, for a few seconds.
Thanks for the info. Later i will check the exact distance between the die and the heatspreader.Insert a 0.5mm copper shim with thermal paste and do a CPU stress test—you'll get a big surprise.
Excellent. I wondered how they did it with no visible bolts on top.Here you go!
It slots into the the motherboard holes yeah.Excellent. I wondered how they did it with no visible bolts on top.
Do the standoffs only sit on top of the motherboard, or do they set into the mounting holes? If just on the surface then it would be pretty easy to file a small amount off the end. The hardest bit would be keeping them even so the plate stays level.
Pleased to hear that the pad is a good fit.Just a large goop of thermal paste.
I did try putting a small ball of thermal paste on the die (like you would a desktop cpu) and then put the head speader on and it nearly touched, not enough to spread the paste out.
So you need a lot of thermal paste to make contact between the two. But I have now put a 0.5mm thermal pad between the both and they now make contact and squish the thermal pad slightly. Great!
I will run some thermal tests as soon as I can.
Right now I am contemplating whether to use the included jonsbo HP400S cooler or not as it is VERY close the the capacitors when mounted in a specific orientation. The other 3 orientations actually make contact with components on the board...
The Noctua NH-L9i fits perfectly. The gap is close to the caps still but not as close as the jonsbo cooler was.Pleased to hear that the pad is a good fit.
There are other discussions about the tricky fit of the Jonsbo cooler, though I recall someone finding that a number of alternative coolers were actually tighter still, or wouldn't fit.
Ah, that would make it harder to reshape the fit. I saw your other post and that a simple pad closed the gap. Good news especially if the temperatures improve.It slots into the the motherboard holes yeah.
There was another insidence of this, a collision between the two standards. 6-32 vs M3Furthermore the standard motherboard screws are too big for the holes in the motherboard, but the provided screws fit through the holes.
So now I have to somehow find some compatible standoffs...
So the standoffs *I think* are 6-32 (need a battery for my calipers) and the screws shipped with the MB *I think* are M3.There was another insidence of this, a collision between the two standards. 6-32 vs M3
As I recall the case end of the standoffs is always 6-32 but the motherboard end can be either thread. It's more odd if the MB included M3 but they're too skinny for the MB holes.