Q? for those familiar with electronics repair... how do i read this cap?

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cat lover server enthusiast
Jul 7, 2016
I'm going to try my hands at repairing this motherboard, which got one of the capacitors knocked off and damaged a M.2 slot. I'm trying to find the replacement capacitor for it, but I don't know how to read this. From what I've searched so far, the "blue" color means the unit is uF, so this is 560uF. I don't know what the "LF" or the little "j", or the "5ZC" means. In particular, what's the voltage rating on this thing? (the ones in the right edge of the photo seem to have a clear 2.5V, but the one in the middle is not so obvious to me) photo attached...

any help appreciated. pointers to a guide or some other educational material so I can learn how to read this would be particularly appreciated.IMG_20181213_212407.jpg


Active Member
Jul 11, 2017
In terms of damage, that cap is dead. It probably has separated the leg from the inner parts.

Depending on where that cap was wired to, you don't really need to replace it, or you should 100% replace it.

Case 1: if it is part of a bigger bank of caps, there really isn't that much of a need since there are still other caps doing the job.

Case 2: if its the sole "filter"? Cap of a Voltage regulation Module (VRM)
Doesn't matter if buck or boost converter, but most likely buck, you need to replace it since you'd otherwise have "rippling" voltage on that rail.

It could damage what's on the rail.

In terms of replacing it, you'd need a soldering iron, solder, and probably a hot air station or some other kind of heater, since those boards sink heat like crazy and I have found an additional heat source to be very helpful.
You could, but shouldn't, use a hair dryer or the industrial variation of it, which name I just forgot.
"Heat gun" maybe.
Again, you shouldn't since temperature control is very very hard with such equipment and it is likely that you'll kill something in the process. Or in case of the hairdryer, that it isn't helping.

A Multimeter is good to have too, especially to figure out which case from above it is. Diode mode, -> beep beep, sheep sheep.

Tweezers are good idea too.

Now to the replacement part, you don't need the exact same part from the exact brand and manufacturing date.

Capacity, voltage and type are enough.
Though if you can get the exact same part, without giving an arm and a leg, or your first born, then that's a good choice too.

Now to the actual replacing part.

If you feel like it, you can wiggle it around to damage the bonding of the legs inside the cap, and to then pull the top "cap" part off, leaving the legs behind in place.

This makes it easy to remove each leg on its own with the "solder iron"
Heat it up, pull it out with the tweezers, or push it out with the iron.

Probably a combination of both.

The other way is to push the legs through from the bottom, alternating between the two, to steadily but slowly work the cap out.

Both can work without a hot air station, though the hot air could work without the solder iron.

I like both in combination.

I think that's enough for now, details can be discussed later.

In case you don't have such equipment,
10$ multimeter is enough,
Any soldering iron will do, I can recommend the "TS100" or the "TS80" since it is Easter to drive. Those cost like 60$ + a bit for addons.
Hot air stations can be expensive, but the Chineseum 30$ crapp-tastico is fine.
Can come in handy on many other hobby projects too.
5$ solder, and the new cap for hopefully below 5$.

Any other opinions?
Did I butcher something?
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cat lover server enthusiast
Jul 7, 2016
^ This is correct. My mistake. You'll be looking for 56μF instead of 560μF. I assume its short hand for 56μF x 10^0
This is the only in stock 56μF 6.3v radial cap I could find on mouser.
UPW0J560MDD Nichicon | Mouser
Check physical measurements see if it can be drop in replacement.
No, I found in another forum, that at least with these Nichicon al poly caps, that value is uF, meaning it is 560uF. Now, that said, the "part number" does use the "561", which indicates 560uF, but the number printed on the cap is the literal uF.
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