So, I have successfully halved my temps on my ICX6610-48P.
About 10 or 11 pages back I identified the noise is too much and went on my way...
Had to wait for 2 Noctua 200mm black fans and a pulse generator to show up from Amazon US, everything else I had sitting around already.
Had some 3mm acrylic/perspex or whatever this is that came from an old telecom rack front door, the whole thing was destined to be recycled. A part of this door will be used to replace the lid of the ICX6610.
I didn't want to hack the case lid for my fan mods because... it is not necessary in any way, its pretty much fully reversible modification.
I cut out the shape according to the switch lid flipped and traced it out on the sheet, when it was cut I marked and drilled the holes precisely while the lid was on so the holes are exactly where they need to be. The holes were also countersunk for the original lid screws to be used, perfect.
Meantime my pulse generator arrived and I did 2 things.
1) Create an excel spreadsheet to record the Noctua 100mm fan RPM Hz, while testing the PWM output from a spare mobo/cpu setup.
I used my cheap digital multimeter that can measure temperature and frequency for this, you just need the positive probe on my model.
Based with this information and a similar fan model as the switch ones I added a formula into my spreadsheet to calculate RPM from Hz or Hz from RPM for playing with.
Here is the google sheet you can use to calculate whatever you need for fans
My pulse generator calculator and 200mm Noctua info Google Sheet
2) Used my multimeter to test out the pulse generator with my new found calculations from the excel spreadsheet information. I tested 750Hz and got 22500 RPM exactly on the motherboard, just as per my calculator
I tested a few different Hz on the mobo once I adjusted the pulse generator accordingly for same output, I used 666Hz for 20000 RPM but anything in this region appears to work fine for the switch, works perfectly, use the multimeter on the pulse generator to set the required Hz (ie RPM required for switch) - At this point I didn't actually measure the switch fans yet, but no matter... just before gutting the fans from the switch I actually measured the frequency and got 650Hz on all 3 fans, so 666 remained..
Next, with the pulse generator worked out, was to do the physical work for mounting the fans as well as wiring, piece of cake.
For the fans, I laid out the fans where I wanted them, covering PSU and the CPU's, they are ginormous so coverage was not difficult, nor placement, and used a scriber thing (anything thats sharp will work) to mark the holes to cut out.
I used a dremel 561 bit which is excellent for cutting this plastic sheet, made it very easy and controllable, even with my crappy cheap non dremel rip off.
The fan mounting holes were also scribed and drilled out to accept regular fan screws of 5mm, also countersunk from the bottom so they dont stick out from under the plastic sheet.
I had some anti noise strip things from years ago I used anywhere where fans contact the sheet and sheet contacts the case, its visible in one of the photos, its stuck not on the switch but on the sheet itself, use masking tape or something that draws on the plastic so you can see it from other side when putting the tape on.
Anyways fans mounted and that part was done, just before I attached the lid on with screws, I put some hot glue over all the fan screws so they are insulated from any possible contact with any switch electronics.
For the PSU to be cooled effectively, I removed the metal top lid and traced out the fan hole, I cut out this portion and kept it, its easily stuck back together when/if returning to stock, you will need it if you are putting on the metal lid on as things are going to short out likely without it..
Wiring was actually piece of cake but YMMW, but im no stranger to wiring and I have experience from more complex wiring jobs through my hobbies...
Anyways I found this instead of me describing it too much, from another thread on this forum, even tho i measured my own to confirm as I recommend anyways...
No stock switch wiring was harmed, I simply removed every part of it from the fan tray and the PSU, the whole rubbish thing is removed in one piece so if it ever gets passed on as stock, its just a simple return operation.
I had also found a very old and broken fan controller that used to be on a pci bracket, I managed to cut the PCB to just fit in the fan tray sideway to have adjustability from outside easily. The broken part was repaired, the regulator snapped off 2 or the 3 soldering pads, so emergency repairs to anchor it down and some wire to repair the electrical connection to the tracks seems to have done the job. Works great now.
Use the diagram above, but for a front to back flow switch you need the 3 grounds, pulse generator and fan controller connected together (and fans grounds if not using controller).
The 12V power is on the bottom 3rd pin from the left, connect that to the pulse generator and fan controller (and fan power if not using controller).
Next pin, bottom, 4th pin from the left and one above it in top row need to be connected to the tone generator output, as well as the power supply fan RPM input too.
My wiring is basically from old motherboard header pins, think reset and power switches, just remove the plastic bits and add a bit of heat shrink, they hold well, needed smaller wire pin for the psu fan header tho, so thats something to consider..
The single green wire going to the PSU, is for the PSU fan trickery
My fans are PWM but im not feeding them PWM, I used some scrap old 3pin pass through and normal connectors from other projects so I can remove lid easily with one connector easily accessed at the back of the switch, at the fan controller output.
All done, just put the lid on,
I forgot to take a pic of the lid screws in place, but they are and the thing is in the rack for testing over next week how it does, temps are 1/2'd since fan switch over.
I also no longer run the blanking plate on the second fan tray. May make a mesh cover to keep any possible larger creatures out of it before I wire it in to my network next week.
This thing is quiet as a mouse 1 meter away, so shouldnt disturb you if your head is next to it... let alone in a rack somewhere else
Speaking of racks, I hope no one has missed the fact my switch is now 2U, something to consider if you are vertically challenged...
The 200mm fans output a LOT of air, its good stuff, also my power draw at the wall is 112W once the switch is booted with only console cable.
Old fan config is 3x40mm 0.81A, new config is 2x200mm 0.08A and a lot more flow.
Here is the whole album link for teardown plus fan mods all pics I took. Includes videos of noise, tho was hard to capture noise after mods, my daughter was lightly playing in the background so its more background noise really then the switch itself, this was fans around 1/2 to 2/3rds speed on the controller..
No fan errors or anything weird going on, as the pulse generator is doing its thing, quite well too.
Here is a shot of temps after 3 hours of on time in the rack with much other heat/etc, keep in mind this is with now closer to 1/2 speed on the fan controller.
If I turn the fan controller up to 11, its still quiet - at 1m hardly audible, in a rack not a chance.
Cheers and enjoy!
About 10 or 11 pages back I identified the noise is too much and went on my way...
Had to wait for 2 Noctua 200mm black fans and a pulse generator to show up from Amazon US, everything else I had sitting around already.
Had some 3mm acrylic/perspex or whatever this is that came from an old telecom rack front door, the whole thing was destined to be recycled. A part of this door will be used to replace the lid of the ICX6610.
I didn't want to hack the case lid for my fan mods because... it is not necessary in any way, its pretty much fully reversible modification.
I cut out the shape according to the switch lid flipped and traced it out on the sheet, when it was cut I marked and drilled the holes precisely while the lid was on so the holes are exactly where they need to be. The holes were also countersunk for the original lid screws to be used, perfect.
Meantime my pulse generator arrived and I did 2 things.
1) Create an excel spreadsheet to record the Noctua 100mm fan RPM Hz, while testing the PWM output from a spare mobo/cpu setup.
I used my cheap digital multimeter that can measure temperature and frequency for this, you just need the positive probe on my model.
| Hz | Reported mobo RPM | Calc RPM from Hz: (Hz * 60) / 2 | Duty % |
| 29.1 | 862 | 873 | 100 |
| 27.7 | 825 | 831 | 90 |
| 22.0 | 650 | 660 | 70 |
| 16.3 | 485 | 489 | 50 |
| 11.5 | 343 | 345 | 35 |
Based with this information and a similar fan model as the switch ones I added a formula into my spreadsheet to calculate RPM from Hz or Hz from RPM for playing with.
Here is the google sheet you can use to calculate whatever you need for fans
My pulse generator calculator and 200mm Noctua info Google Sheet
2) Used my multimeter to test out the pulse generator with my new found calculations from the excel spreadsheet information. I tested 750Hz and got 22500 RPM exactly on the motherboard, just as per my calculator
I tested a few different Hz on the mobo once I adjusted the pulse generator accordingly for same output, I used 666Hz for 20000 RPM but anything in this region appears to work fine for the switch, works perfectly, use the multimeter on the pulse generator to set the required Hz (ie RPM required for switch) - At this point I didn't actually measure the switch fans yet, but no matter... just before gutting the fans from the switch I actually measured the frequency and got 650Hz on all 3 fans, so 666 remained..
Next, with the pulse generator worked out, was to do the physical work for mounting the fans as well as wiring, piece of cake.
For the fans, I laid out the fans where I wanted them, covering PSU and the CPU's, they are ginormous so coverage was not difficult, nor placement, and used a scriber thing (anything thats sharp will work) to mark the holes to cut out.
I used a dremel 561 bit which is excellent for cutting this plastic sheet, made it very easy and controllable, even with my crappy cheap non dremel rip off.
The fan mounting holes were also scribed and drilled out to accept regular fan screws of 5mm, also countersunk from the bottom so they dont stick out from under the plastic sheet.
I had some anti noise strip things from years ago I used anywhere where fans contact the sheet and sheet contacts the case, its visible in one of the photos, its stuck not on the switch but on the sheet itself, use masking tape or something that draws on the plastic so you can see it from other side when putting the tape on.
Anyways fans mounted and that part was done, just before I attached the lid on with screws, I put some hot glue over all the fan screws so they are insulated from any possible contact with any switch electronics.
For the PSU to be cooled effectively, I removed the metal top lid and traced out the fan hole, I cut out this portion and kept it, its easily stuck back together when/if returning to stock, you will need it if you are putting on the metal lid on as things are going to short out likely without it..
Wiring was actually piece of cake but YMMW, but im no stranger to wiring and I have experience from more complex wiring jobs through my hobbies...
Anyways I found this instead of me describing it too much, from another thread on this forum, even tho i measured my own to confirm as I recommend anyways...
No stock switch wiring was harmed, I simply removed every part of it from the fan tray and the PSU, the whole rubbish thing is removed in one piece so if it ever gets passed on as stock, its just a simple return operation.
I had also found a very old and broken fan controller that used to be on a pci bracket, I managed to cut the PCB to just fit in the fan tray sideway to have adjustability from outside easily. The broken part was repaired, the regulator snapped off 2 or the 3 soldering pads, so emergency repairs to anchor it down and some wire to repair the electrical connection to the tracks seems to have done the job. Works great now.
Use the diagram above, but for a front to back flow switch you need the 3 grounds, pulse generator and fan controller connected together (and fans grounds if not using controller).
The 12V power is on the bottom 3rd pin from the left, connect that to the pulse generator and fan controller (and fan power if not using controller).
Next pin, bottom, 4th pin from the left and one above it in top row need to be connected to the tone generator output, as well as the power supply fan RPM input too.
My wiring is basically from old motherboard header pins, think reset and power switches, just remove the plastic bits and add a bit of heat shrink, they hold well, needed smaller wire pin for the psu fan header tho, so thats something to consider..
The single green wire going to the PSU, is for the PSU fan trickery
My fans are PWM but im not feeding them PWM, I used some scrap old 3pin pass through and normal connectors from other projects so I can remove lid easily with one connector easily accessed at the back of the switch, at the fan controller output.
All done, just put the lid on,
I forgot to take a pic of the lid screws in place, but they are and the thing is in the rack for testing over next week how it does, temps are 1/2'd since fan switch over.
I also no longer run the blanking plate on the second fan tray. May make a mesh cover to keep any possible larger creatures out of it before I wire it in to my network next week.
This thing is quiet as a mouse 1 meter away, so shouldnt disturb you if your head is next to it... let alone in a rack somewhere else
Speaking of racks, I hope no one has missed the fact my switch is now 2U, something to consider if you are vertically challenged...
The 200mm fans output a LOT of air, its good stuff, also my power draw at the wall is 112W once the switch is booted with only console cable.
Old fan config is 3x40mm 0.81A, new config is 2x200mm 0.08A and a lot more flow.
Here is the whole album link for teardown plus fan mods all pics I took. Includes videos of noise, tho was hard to capture noise after mods, my daughter was lightly playing in the background so its more background noise really then the switch itself, this was fans around 1/2 to 2/3rds speed on the controller..
No fan errors or anything weird going on, as the pulse generator is doing its thing, quite well too.
Here is a shot of temps after 3 hours of on time in the rack with much other heat/etc, keep in mind this is with now closer to 1/2 speed on the fan controller.
If I turn the fan controller up to 11, its still quiet - at 1m hardly audible, in a rack not a chance.
Code:
SSH@bigbeef>show chassis
The stack unit 1 chassis info:
Power supply 1 not present
Power supply 2 (AC - PoE) present, status ok
Model Number: 23-0000142-02
Serial Number: WME
Firmware Ver: A
Power supply 2 Fan Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
Fan 1 ok, speed (auto): [[1]]<->2
Fan 2 not present
Fan controlled temperature: 41.0 deg-C
Fan speed switching temperature thresholds:
Speed 1: NM<----->84 deg-C
Speed 2: 79<-----> 87 deg-C (shutdown)
Fan 1 Air Flow Direction: Front to Back
MAC 1 Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 38.0 deg-C
MAC 2 Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 40.5 deg-C
CPU Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 39.5 deg-C
sensor A Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 27.5 deg-C
sensor B Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 29.5 deg-C
sensor C Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 29.5 deg-C
stacking card Temperature Readings:
Current temperature : 41.0 deg-C
Warning level.......: 84.0 deg-C
Shutdown level......: 87.0 deg-C
Boot Prom MAC : cc4e.243b.a2bc
Management MAC: cc4e.243b.a2bc
Last edited:
