Got my Topton V2 with the V3 225-B3 NICs a while ago. When I put Windows on it and ran some stress test, it went from 50c idle to 80c straight away. Repasting with NT-H1 paste didn't help - so I cleaned off the black varnish under the copper heatsink block, polished all surfaces and put a couple of layers of graphite based thermal pads from Innovation Cooling - cut to size. I also put some NT-H1 between the block and the case.
You can see from the silver area in the pic below where the varnish was sanded off - I tested the copper heatsink block with a hair dryer, heating it for 5~10 minutes and verifying that the block itself was cool and the case was getting steadily warmer - so it definitely wasn't a problem with the
Idle temps improved from 50c to 45c and load temps were ~ 70c. I used BurnInTest from Passmark as a quick and dirty solution for testing.
Thinking that I could do better - took a careful look and I found that the copper block was tilted and hence one side (in green) actually made good contact with the CPU but the other one (marked in blue) was tilted down and hence there was much less pressure on the SOC/PCH == bad heat transfer.
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I could have taken the whole copper assembly out and sanded the block or the underlying surface down - but instead got some copper shims and put a 0.5mm shim on one side and a 0.3mm shim on the other.
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If you're afraid of putting the shims on the CPU directly - after all there is no integrated heat spreader and you can easily crack the CPU if you put too thick a shim or use too much pressure - you can put the shims on the copper heatsink block
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My temps are now 30c idle and 50c under load, so I think that is as good as result as I can get with this CPU and case ...
LOL I totally agree - it's easier to do a 0.2mm + 0.3mm shim and then move to a 0.3mm+0.4mm shim if necessary - you cannot say the same about grinding the standoffs - too much work and you cannot correct if something goes wrongI'd rather mill up a new copper block than grind off the stand-offs!
I was going to try those Graphite Patches but I had some NT-H1 kicking about so I used that last time.There's also no sense in using some exotic thermal paste - just a thin layer of anything reasonably good like NT-H1 or MX-5 is enough
yeah I got the pad for 12 bucks and cut several rectangular strips and used those. The IC pad *needs* a high tension mount i.e. a lot of pressure. With low pressure the pad is not as good as pasteI was going to try those Graphite Patches but I had some NT-H1 kicking about so I used that last time.
Each shim adds paste-copper-paste layer with some extra mess + thermal performance penalty. Also I suppose in worst case scenario standoffs can be easily replaced.LOL I totally agree - it's easier to do a 0.2mm + 0.3mm shim and then move to a 0.3mm+0.4mm shim if necessary - you cannot say the same about grinding the standoffs - too much work and you cannot correct if something goes wrong
what i notice is that the freq starts at 2.7-2.75 ghz all cores for 128 seconds (i set it in the bios) but then they start to drop to the 2.5ghz where they stabilize.
That's not how the silicon lottery works. What would happen is that you would get a SoC with higher VID, meaning Vcore gets higher => more heat dissipated. As long as you can sink 30W of thermal load, you shouldn't throttle and therefore maintain the 28x multiplier regardless of whether you have a SoC with higher VID or lowermaybe is silicon lottery
By the looks of it, it appears it could be cheaper because they skimmed on beefy heatsink with fins but then there is breathing grill on either side for better air circulation. Would be interesting to know if anybody benchmarked thermal performance.One of the Topton 4-port i226 w/ N6005 barebones is lowed to around $220(link) and I haven't found its major differences to this one(link), except for the later one's case. But its case has no heat pipes, I don't think this case make its price difference higher to $40. And I only found the later one on CWWK's store.