EXPIRED Edge 610 (Dell VEP1400) - Dual Core Intel, 6x1GbE, 2x1GbSFP+ $100 (eBay)
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Does it have a special connector? From the pictures of specs I've seen it seems these are just 12v 5a adapters, which should be fairly common.
Thanks! I guess I hadn't looked at the connector too closely. Appreciate it!
Barrel connectors come in several flavors, depending on diameters. The differences are not big (in order of tenths of mm), but enough to cause very nasty problems. If the center pin in the connector is bigger than the hole in the plug, you will not be able to plug the cable in. However, if the pin is smaller, the plug will fit just fine, but you may encounter problems with intermittent contact between the pin and contacts in the plug. Sometimes there will be no contact at all, but everything will work fine if you bend the cable, or rotate the plug.
Measure the diameter of the center pin, the outside sleeve in the socket, and make sure to order a power supply with matching plug.
You can always just open it up and solder some 12V capable wires to the board 
I don't have callipers on hand but it seems it's around 5.5m x 2.5mm (using a crappy tape measure). That seems to align with the Delta part number that's also on here: DPS-65VB LPS. Voltages and Amperages match, as well as polarity (center positive), 12V, 65W, about 5.417A. The LPS part on the Delta P/N seems to be for the 'locking' version, but without a locking ring it also works fine, just easier to unplug.
I don't have callipers on hand but it seems it's around 5.5m x 2.5mm (using a crappy tape measure). That seems to align with the Delta part number that's also on here: DPS-65VB LPS. Voltages and Amperages match, as well as polarity (center positive), 12V, 65W, about 5.417A. The LPS part on the Delta P/N seems to be for the 'locking' version, but without a locking ring it also works fine, just easier to unplug.
If unsure on the barrel (or hard to find) its only a few dollar for a set like these to just replace both sides and use a whatever cheap brick of correct voltage.
When the standard is not common sizes and adapter was not included i usualy always replace or add a short additional lead with a 5.5x2.1 from typicaly pins underneath board so i got the option.
When the standard is not common sizes and adapter was not included i usualy always replace or add a short additional lead with a 5.5x2.1 from typicaly pins underneath board so i got the option.
You could also go the cheap route and get one of these ccc models that might catch fire, etc--but it's cheap:
But then for a hair more, genuine power supplies are starting at just $16:
But then for a hair more, genuine power supplies are starting at just $16:
Used Delta Electronics DPS-65VB AC/DC Adapter Cable | 100V-240V ~ /2.0A 50-60Hz | eBay
MISSING the power (to the wall) cord. Attached Cable NOTE: Item has been used, tested working. No Exceptions.
www.ebay.com
Delta Electronics DPS-65VB 65W 12V 5,417A AC Adapter - w/ POWER CORD | eBay
W/ Power Cord.
www.ebay.com
Personally i would not agree with the higher risk of catching fire type stuff on the cheaper end.
When entities like the "Directorate for Civil Protection" here buy a few hundread of a item like power brick, hair dryer, toaster etc from pretty much every brand/store/pricerange to get a representative selection.
The expensive and known brands will have just as many problems as the cheap from a safety side of things.
But with the cheapest stuff id expect it to be a cheaper to make and less power efficient design.
So i will favor a hp,dell,lenovo etc brick assuming its an active pfc rather than passive (typicaly being 90%+ rather than 70-85% area if i dont remember wrong).
For bricks below 70w its even still legal in EU to make them without pfc and possibly being as low as 50-60%.
Can almost wonder why 65-69w is so popular...
When entities like the "Directorate for Civil Protection" here buy a few hundread of a item like power brick, hair dryer, toaster etc from pretty much every brand/store/pricerange to get a representative selection.
The expensive and known brands will have just as many problems as the cheap from a safety side of things.
But with the cheapest stuff id expect it to be a cheaper to make and less power efficient design.
So i will favor a hp,dell,lenovo etc brick assuming its an active pfc rather than passive (typicaly being 90%+ rather than 70-85% area if i dont remember wrong).
For bricks below 70w its even still legal in EU to make them without pfc and possibly being as low as 50-60%.
Can almost wonder why 65-69w is so popular...
So maybe not fire, but a lot them do run spicy hot for whatever reason compared to the more genuine designs, probably for the reasons you stated. Not worth saving $5-10 imo. It is interesting about 65w being a common output--never knew that and makes sense.
As a rough and general simplification:
Very light bricks that you almost wonder if stuff inside - no pfc and horrible efficiency, can be as low as 50-60%
Heavy and larger bricks - passive pfc with 70-85% efficiency (heavy since the brand names will compensate with massive heatsinks to limit how spicy brick gets).
Medium weight - active pfc with 90%+ efficiency and usualy 94-97%.
Active costs more to make so with typicaly laptops you will usualy see a small 65w for premium products and larger 65w for cheaper stuff.
The lower efficiency the more energy/heat you are losing in bricks conversion.
If you are drawing 30w through a horrible efficiency dirt cheap that can generate 20w of loss/heat in that brick and get spicy hot, vs a higher cost active pfc generating 2-3watt.
That is also why console bricks can be massive with a "do not cover" type warning, because they are both going high wattage and cheaping out on design.
There's also the increasingly counter-intuitive mix of linear vs switching weight difference; so a crappy linear might be as heavy as a good switching, but a bad switching will always be lighter than any other type. Unless of course the switching power supply uses GAN semiconductors which might be as light as a crappy linear power supply
What's also interesting is the MeanWell, Delta and GreatWall power supplies generally always being good, but they still have internal SKUs that are for internal use in China which can be quite crappy (compared to what we are used to).
What's also interesting is the MeanWell, Delta and GreatWall power supplies generally always being good, but they still have internal SKUs that are for internal use in China which can be quite crappy (compared to what we are used to).
Yep, again why a good used genuine branded power supply will be my go-to, since they are still the best value for the money--even with alternatives out there.
Good technique! I passed on a lot at one point because I didn't need it and then sure enough I got something that did, lol.
If you have only updated once, just reset it during boot (before it starts GRUB) a few times and it will fall back to the backup BIOS (it has two).
Thanks yeah it boots from backup bios still my ethernet ports are not working and even worse GE1 and GE2 are always on they are solid green.
When you updated the BIOS, did you also update the CPLD and/or PIC? I'm guessing you never made it to the PIC, because that would require a reboot-- presumably with the wrong BIOS as primary.