Are the fans also fairly loud at idle like with your other unit?
I haven't gotten around to ordering one or two for myself yet.
EU EATON 5P1550IR 1550VA 1U UPS available from various eBay Sellers in Large Quantity
- Thread starter olev
- Start date
Notice: Page may contain affiliate links for which we may earn a small commission through services like Amazon Affiliates or Skimlinks.
I haven't gotten around to ordering one or two for myself yet.
The Earthing / Grounding shouldn't be a Factor if at all, unless at the "NEW" site the Earthing is MUCH worse !Oh there were some bad years for APC when they felt the need to cut corners to compete, and that would explain some of what you experienced.
Interesting your tripping issue was also in an apartment--mine too. Maybe that's a function of how the grounding of multitenant units are done--who knows. I just know that the exact same unit is working fine now in my office on a circuit with a bunch of other stuff plugged in.
I've seen status codes like that too, and many times even though unrelated it was just that the battery was dead.Yep, not their best years on those units.
Culprit number 1 is most likely a very old RCD in the old Installation.
Depending how [bad] the old Installation is, it's also possible that somebody borrowed a neutral somewhere, so some current would always return via another Path. That would require that only a small Portion of the Current is redirected via another Path, which while possible, I'd say it's unlikely at ~ 10A.
A 30mA RCD / GFCI should NOT trip below 50% of Rating and must Trip below 100% of Rating, so your maximum Load Impedance to trip a 30mA RCD should be between 230V/0.03A = 7.6 kOhm and 230/0.015 = 15.3 kOhm. Those are quite big Values.
Now, granted, earth Faults are not short-circuits so the Fault itself has some Impedance which is definitively non-negligible (100 Ohm ... 10 kOhm ?).
There are several Things to consider, but as a general Rule:
- (of course I exclude the Case of an IT Earthing System, since the RCD will never trip in such Case, but you'd be relying on Insulation Monitoring via an Insulation Monitoring Device or IMD, AKA Voltage Monitoring instead of Differential Current Monitoring)
- If somebody forgot to connect the Earth (PE) Wire to a Plug, the Earth Resistance is going to be very very High (theoretically Infinite)
- For a TN-S or TN-C-S System where your Earth is coming from the Supply Transformer, Earth Impedance is quite Low / very Low (think about Range of 0.1 Ohm ... 10 Ohm as a ball Park Figure)
- Only Issue where you COULD have a high earth Impedance would be a TT System (Earth Electrode in the Ground), but it would be a very bad one at > 1666 Ohm Earth Electrode Impedance, potentially made worse by contributing Factors (soil is almost always Dry, single Electrode, bad/corroded Connection, no big Structure nearby [Concrete, especially reinforced Concrete, will almost always be a better "electrode" and improve Earthing than whatever 6mm2 or 16 mm2 Copper Wire will ever do, simply because of the huge Surface], etc).
https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/TT_system_-_Principle
If the Earthing on your new Installation is quite bad, at least speaking from my European Perspective and NOT US Mid-Point Grounding of Transformer (0 +/- 120V -> 240V Supply), the Issue would appear in Europe as a fairly big Neutral - Earth Voltage (which is normally & ideally 0V).
OK, where is that Transformer then
?I have some 50 Hz 24V 1200V Transformers at Home (bought standalone, NOT in a UPS !), I can tell you you can FEEL how heavy those Things are: 13 kg each.
1500VA is closer to 17 kg for the Transformer in the same Series that I have.
1200 VA you are probably looking at around 150mm x 150mm x 150mm.
1500 VA you are probably looking at around 175mm x 175mm x 175mm.
Maybe a bit less Iron in the US (although more lossy) since 60Hz, but Still.
I believe you are rather describing an Autotransformer which is a special Type of Transformer with much less Short-Circuit Impedance and no Isolation at all.
Regardless, for a Transformer to vary the Output Voltage, it needs to be adjustable (heh
). Whether it's a Variac (brand Name) where you turn a Knob or whether it's some Brushes run by an electric Motor that moves the Tap Brushes up and down along a Column of Winding (like an On-Load Voltage Transformer / Stabilizer would do), it still needs to be adjustable.Of course you can do the same with a Power Converter / Inverter (and much more).
You don't get Fixed Output Voltage for a Variable Input Voltage just by Magic of having a "Transformer"
.EDIT 1: just because of the Size (let alone the Weight), this is NOT something that would fit in a 1U Factor. Sure there are planar transformers for high Frequency Applications, but I believe it would NOT be cost-effective at all for 50/60Hz.
Did anybody try to update the UPS firmware?
The model I got states firmware version number 03.16.0032, current seems to be 04.02.0001,
but the accompanying update manual contains a warning not to upgrade beyond version 03.18:
The firmware version 3.18 seems nowhere to be found though, neither advice how to get on a current / actively supported (?) firmware version.
Does anybody know some more details about this?
Thank you!
The model I got states firmware version number 03.16.0032, current seems to be 04.02.0001,
but the accompanying update manual contains a warning not to upgrade beyond version 03.18:
The firmware version 3.18 seems nowhere to be found though, neither advice how to get on a current / actively supported (?) firmware version.
Does anybody know some more details about this?
Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply, I bought 3x Noctua NF-A4x20 from a guy on a local forum, so I just used one of those. They came with some vibration dampening rubber mounting pins that worked pretty nicely to mount it with.
Yeah, they're no screamers like those meant to cool 1U servers, but not something I'd want to listen to while working.
I got a measurement mic so I could make samples with the different fans, but without level-calibrated playback I'm not sure how useful it'd be anyway?
Agreed, that's very subjective anyways. I've got some tiny fans I don't mind and others that are obnoxious, even though there are quieter.
Wow, that's really not a lot of static pressure and airflow. But if yours is cool enough with that fan, it makes me think about swapping the stock fan as well.
Not really, their Website takes 2 Minutes to load or more
.So you mean it has like 3 or 4 Additional Fixed Taps so it steps down to -10%, -20% (and nothing in between of course) ?
That doesn't change the laws of Physics.
Where is that "Transformer" Physically ?
The original fan isn't moving that much air either, and my ambient temperature during the seasons w outages have been 5°C-15°C with plenty of free space around the UPS, and it's pretty efficient i guess, so pulling 300W for 25 minutes only resulted in the case being around body temperature, and the heat most concentrated around the batteries.
I would not want to pull 1500W with that fan.
OK that's a Autotransformer with a few additional Fixed Tap Positions that you switch via some Relay/Contactors/Thyristors then, not really "variable" (continuosly).
Then we could agree
.EDIT 1: and of course since it's an AutoTransformer without any Primary/Secondary Isolation, you just have a Copper Winding with some Taps, but without any Iron Circuit, thus MUCH lighter and compact
.
Last edited:
When I open the item it says that shipping is only possible to Germany ? How did you get to be shipped elsewhere ? I'm from Croatia (also EU), would like to buy it but only shipping option is Germany.
Fair enough (I meant the same in the Positive Direction too BTW)
.
OK so it had no "predictive" or "timer" Circuit but rather just an Absolute Instantaneous Threshold (reached at last Data Point before the Output Voltage Drops). Fair enough
.
I relatively frequently use Mailboxde as a forwarding service from Germany to EU. I can recommend them and they are reasonably prized.
I used the contact seller option its after that may not ship to your country and i got email for contact to their customer service and i ordered from them with shipping to Finland. Shipping was about 45euro with GLS freight i think.
Edit: You cant use mail forwarders because there are batteries in the ups and its labeled such on the box. You can literally see the label on ebay...
I've contacted seller and he sent me mail address to contact them directly.
Ordered two, payed via bank transfer, got receipt and they shipped the items fast.
Both arrived in original packaging, not opened.
What is the catch ? Catch is that they sell it without warranty on batteries, which are 2-4 years old. Also, this model is is on road to be discontinued (not that it matters much).
One UPS has good batteries, another one is reporting battery fault. I'll see if I can do something about it before I order replacement batteries.
Anyway, good deal.
You have same UPS from same seller, with fresh batteries with warranty for 379 EUR.
Ordered two, payed via bank transfer, got receipt and they shipped the items fast.
Both arrived in original packaging, not opened.
What is the catch ? Catch is that they sell it without warranty on batteries, which are 2-4 years old. Also, this model is is on road to be discontinued (not that it matters much).
One UPS has good batteries, another one is reporting battery fault. I'll see if I can do something about it before I order replacement batteries.
Anyway, good deal.
You have same UPS from same seller, with fresh batteries with warranty for 379 EUR.
I tried to buy this UPS from this seller with shipping within Germany to a collecting point of Austrian post "Alles Post Deutschland" for forwarding to Austria.
I attempted to purchase it on eBay and on their website. The seller canceled both transactions, stating that they cannot ship products containing batteries to Austria. They mentioned a special service involving invoices and bank transactions. It sounded strange, so I decided to avoid them.
I simply ordered from another eBay seller for cheaper, with working batteries, and it's a 2022 model. The device arrived today, and it works well. I easily registered the three-year manufacturer's warranty.
Yes, it's €119 on their eBay page and €129 on the seller's website, but delivery is free in Germany.
I bought mine from rb-mtec for 98 EUR + 23 EUR DHL delivery, but seems it was the last item. The battery came with 60% charge.
I found that the fan connector on the device is an XH2.54 3-pin connector.
I read some time ago that a capacitor needs to be soldered to an RPM wire for Noctua to work properly.
Could you please tell me if you used an adapter for the Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX, or if you simply connected the pins accordingly?
I just cut the original wire and a Noctua extension cord and connected them with those gelfilled scotchlock connectors. No issues with the RPM signal noise, which would be the point of the capacitor to fix I assume? There was none on the original fan afaik, so dunno why it would be needed w a Noctua fan.