Dell Powervault 5U84 Flextronics UD-PSU01-2200w PSU

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mideel

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@mideel: can you please try Pin23 to Pin24 with either:

- 0 Ohm (short-Circuit)
- 470 Ohm

And if possible try 470 Ohm between Pin11 and Pin23 as well.

I'd just like to narrow down the Issue why mine won't start at all.
Pin23 to Pin24 seems to works with anything lower than 600 ohms (3x 1.8k in parallel). 900 ohms (2x 1.8k in parallel) doesn't work.

Pin11 to Pin23 works with lower values (410 ohms to 1.8k).

For my code:1912 PSU I tested: Pin23 to Pin24 with: 410ohms (2x 820 ohms in parallel), 600 ohms (3x 1.8k in parallel) and 900 ohms (2x 1.8k in parallel). 900 ohm and above doesn't work.

Pin11 to Pin23 works with lower values than 1.8k, I tested 820 ohms and 410ohms (2x 820 ohms in parallel).
 
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luckylinux

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Pin23 to Pin24 seems to works with anything lower than 600 ohms (3x 1.8k in parallel). 900 ohms (2x 1.8k in parallel) doesn't work.

Pin11 to Pin23 works with lower values (410 ohms to 1.8k).

For my code:1912 PSU I tested: Pin23 to Pin24 with: 410ohms (2x 820 ohms in parallel), 600 ohms (3x 1.8k in parallel) and 900 ohms (2x 1.8k in parallel). 900 ohm and above doesn't work.

Pin11 to Pin23 works with lower values than 1.8k, I tested 820 ohms and 410ohms (2x 820 ohms in parallel).
I don't get it then why mine does NOT work at all in the same Conditions.

Crappy Breadboard maybe ?

EDIT 1: I already tried 2 different Breadboards though ...
 

mideel

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I don't get it then why mine does NOT work at all in the same Conditions.

Crappy Breadboard maybe ?

EDIT 1: I already tried 2 different Breadboards though ...
No idea, I also eliminated one more variable. The outlets I have at my house are primarily ungrounded and I had been testing thus far in one of those. I've now tested both PSU's in an outlet with a safety ground. It made no difference, both PSU's power on and supply the main 12V output.

However I did notice something a bit worrying, the bathroom I went to test with a grounded outlet is very quiet compared with the rest of the rooms in my house and I noticed both PSUs have a constant arching sound coming from the primary side (it's not a buzzing/resonating sound, more distinct clicks of electricity like the stereotypical geiger counter sound).
 

luckylinux

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@mideel: OK, just found 1 Issue: the Switch was turned OFF :rolleyes: . Obviously I had the PSU turned back to front so I didn't see that ...

BUT still 2 x Amber LEDs (AC Fault & DC Fault), Green Status LED Blinking and ... I got 13.25 V Output.

EDIT 1: add Pictures

1751279480034.png

1751279512707.png

1751279573771.png

@mideel: I don't think you ever told me that you had 2 AMBER FAULT LEDs, did you ? Do you have the AMBER (Orange) LEDs ON or OFF ?
 

luckylinux

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However I did notice something a bit worrying, the bathroom I went to test with a grounded outlet is very quiet compared with the rest of the rooms in my house and I noticed both PSUs have a constant arching sound coming from the primary side (it's not a buzzing/resonating sound, more distinct clicks of electricity like the stereotypical geiger counter sound).
If I were to guess, it's just some "Pumping" noise every few Seconds.

Remember these PSUs are designed for 180A Load. So if you have 0A or 5A Load @ 12V, the Grid Current @ 230VAC (or @120VAC) will be very small, but the ripple in the PFC Inductor is NOT Zero. Especially if you combine that with the PFC Controller trying to get a Sinusoidal Current from the Grid ... It will basically recharge the DC Link Capacitors as soon as the DC Link Capacitor Voltage drops a bit, but since the Load is so small, it will take relatively big Current but for very short Time from the Grid.

It could also be Controller Oscillation.


EDIT 1: forget what I wrote (I got confused by your "it's not a buzzing/resonating sound", so I was expecting some "low Frequency Issue").

I can Confirm some "Arching Sound" (mini "sparks") as well. Mine is on a Grounded Outlet. Did you hear that with a non-Grounded Outlet as well ?

If you did NOT hear the sound with the ungrounded Outlet, then it's probably the Grid EMC Filter.

But by Ear I would have said that the Noise was coming from the Output Transformer ...
 
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mideel

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@mideel: OK, just found 1 Issue: the Switch was turned OFF :rolleyes: . Obviously I had the PSU turned back to front so I didn't see that ...

BUT still 2 x Amber LEDs (AC Fault & DC Fault), Green Status LED Blinking and ... I got 13.25 V Output.
That's a classic.

Now you've got the same point as me. I need to pause for a bit on this front though. Next I want to do some real power and thermal measurements, which requires a way to safely draw up to 2kW from the output pins. I tried looking for any type of connector that I could fit on the exposed pins, but this seems to be some kind of Dell only connector, so no luck on that front.

EDIT:

@mideel: I don't think you ever told me that you had 2 AMBER FAULT LEDs, did you ? Do you have the AMBER (Orange) LEDs ON or OFF ?
I have both on with the green led blinking.
 
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luckylinux

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That's a classic.
Yeah. Murphy's Law :D .

I was EXPECTING the Fault LEDs to go Off so I didn't even investigate the Switch . But even with the Switch in the right Position, I still have the AMBER LEDs ON. Which according to the Manual it's not even Possible. Closest is (with Green Blinking instead of ON):
1751280219123.png

Expectation Bias is a very very very bad Animal :rolleyes:.

Now you've got the same point as me.
Thanks for the Tip about B2 (PS_ON), the Sparring and the Help in Troubleshooting ;). I might have eventually figured it out, but I originally spent a couple Hours one Day, then parked this Task for like 2 Weeks until I received some I2C/SPI/UART Programmers since I basically thought that was the only way forward.


I have both on with the green led blinking.
Thanks :).

I need to pause for a bit on this front though. Next I want to do some real power and thermal measurements, which requires a way to safely draw up to 2kW from the output pins. I tried looking for any type of connector that I could fit on the exposed pins, but this seems to be some kind of Dell only connector, so no luck on that front.
It's 14 Power Connectors (4 Long + 7 Short + 3 Long) + 24 Signal Connectors.

Approximate Measurements with a Caliper:
Power Pin Outside "Left" to Outside "Right": 6.7 mm
Power Pin Thickness: 1.4 mm
Power Pin Height: 7.6 mm
Power Pin Pitch (Center-Center): 6.7mm - 2 * (Half Thickness) = 6.7mm - 2*0.5*1.4mm = 6.7mm - 1.4mm = 5.3mm

From Inside Lock Tab to Inside Lock Tab: 106.5 mm
From Outside Lock Tab to Outside Lock Tab: 113.5 mm

Jump to the Bottom if you want the latest Idea / Solution.

I previously dig a bit around with that, I found this Reference

From that, it would seem that for the "standard" Dell PSU with "PCB Connector" (such as those you see on Aliexpress for Mining GPU etc), they seem to use the Amphenol ICC Series of Connectors.

The Connector on our PSU vaguely resembles this one (look at the Locking Tabs, I know the Power Connector on the Right Side is wrong):



These one seems MUCH MORE similar to ours though (Locking Tab I mean), but I don't see a Model with a simple Full Busbar per each Pole:





This is close BUT not quite exact dimensions:
1751282633567.png

I couldn't find an Exact Match in a quick Search now:(.

Examples of Matches on Digikey

EDIT 1: maybe I was under the wrong "Section", there is another "Backplane Connectors": https://www.digikey.com/en/products...ecialized/407?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIwAY5gOwBYEJAXQL5A

EDIT 2: it could also be TE Connectivity MultiBeam Series, MULTI-BEAM HD, XLE, & XL Connectors

EDIT 3: it could also be something like this, if you find the Matching Part. This however seems to be a bit of a Female (for Power, 2 Teeth/Pin to catch the Busbar) and Male (for Signal) though:

EDIT 4: matching part of the above is:

EDIT 5: however, these TE Connectivity Connectors are ~ 120mm, we need something like ~ 113mm (plus a bit maybe more on the exterior from the locking Tab to the Real Edge of the Connector, see picture above, I did NOT include that small Part sticking out at the very edge of the Connector since IIRC I couldn't grab that with the Caliper).

EDIT 6: double checked, I cannot reach it, but I'd say 2.5mm on each Side, so total Width of Connector in PSU ~ 118.5mm

EDIT 7: isn't this more of the Style of the Busbars/Pins that are on our Connector ?


And this one has the "Characteristic" Short+Long Pin like we have on our Main Connector:

EDIT 8: there might be another Section yet again ...


This REALLY looks like the connector on our PSU


So it seems to really be MOLEX EXTreme Guardian Series of Connectors (214113 / Series Chart: View) ... except that they max out at 10 Power Circuits, NOT the 14 Power Circuits that we have.


However I used Google to try to find a 14P + 24S Connector using the Query molex "14 Power Circuits" + 24 Signal Circuits connector and sure there is one:

1751285415658.png


And the Mating Part is the one on our PSU:

Looks Familiar :) ?
1751285501439.png

Dimensions are within 1mm so probably my Caliper (or the User ;) ) is to blame.

@mideel: what do you think about this last Item ? Basically MOLEX 464361094 to mate with the Connector on our PSU (MOLEX 464371094)

EDIT 9: unfortunately the Part above is NOT in stock anywhere as far as I can see :rolleyes: .

Maybe we can just use the MOLEX 1-Pin (https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/part-detail/0464369201) or 7-Pin (https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/part-detail/2195630037) and ditch the Signal Connector ?

That is stocked at least ...
 
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mideel

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@mideel: what do you think about this last Item ? Basically MOLEX 464361094 to mate with the Connector on our PSU (MOLEX 464371094)
I think I'll end up with a "Peace Was Never An Option" solution, rather than sourcing the proper female connector.

But on a bright side, I've managed to get the PSU to behave properly. Once you've turned on the main output we get new voltages:

A1=0.277V A2=13.07V A3=0.627V

A2 acts as the feedback pin. If you source current from it (connect the pin to ground via a resistor) the output gets higher, source too much and the output shutdown. If you sink current to it, the output voltage lowers. The adjustment range is limited, only using the A2 pin I can change the output voltage from 13.07V to 13.61V (output 13.42V without adjustment). EDIT: The range of current you can source/sink is around +- 2mA

Connecting the A3 pin to ground via different value resistors, I can coarse adjust the output voltage. With a 10 ohm resistor (1mA current) the main output adjusts to 12.80V baseline, which the PSU can now adjust via the A2 feedback pin when you connect that to the 12V output.
 
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luckylinux

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I think I'll end up with a "Peace Was Never An Option" solution, rather than sourcing the proper female connector.
Well I posted what I could find. How we deal with it now it's another Topic.

But on a bright side, I've managed to get the PSU to behave properly. Once the you've turned on the main output we get new voltages:

A1=0.277V A2=13.07V A3=0.627V

A2 acts as the feedback pin. If you source current from it (connect the pin to ground via a resistor) the output gets higher, source too much and the output shutdown. If you sink current to it, the output voltage lowers. The adjustment range is limited, only using the A2 pin I can change the output voltage from 13.07V to 13.61V (output 13.42V without adjustment).

Connecting the A3 pin to ground via different value resistors, I can coarse adjust the output voltage. With a 10 ohm resistor (1mA current) the main output adjusts to 12.80V baseline, which the PSU can now adjust via the A2 feedback pin when you connect that to the 12V output.
Nice ;) .
 

mideel

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Jun 20, 2025
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Did some preliminary tests on the PSU. The good news is that you don't need any resistors, you can just short all the pins. The bad news is that the PSU is very limited in the continuous output power.

My test setup was: C7 to C6 (GND) with a jumper, C2 to GND, A2 to +12V and A3 to GND. With that you get a stable ~12.4V out.

PSU.jpg

The result with ~700W load from the wall was that I had to stop the testing due to the PSU starting to overheat:

Results.jpg

I tried blowing the hottest area with compressed air, to get an idea how much cooling might be needed for continuous 700W, and the result wasn't great. The compressed air does cool, but the temperature climbs very quickly back to 100C:

After cooling2.jpg
My best guess is that you can pull somewhere around 250-350W while the PSU is passively cooled. With added air flow you can roughly double that to 600W, maybe even push to 1000W with high RPM fans. This result kind of makes sense, since the PSU is made for the PowerVault ME4084 with 84x 3.5" HDD. The PSU only needs to supply the 2200W for the short duration it takes for 84 drives to spin up. After the system is powered on the power consumption roughly halves, so you'd be looking at 1100W per PSU on spin up and only around 550W in-use.
 

luckylinux

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Did some preliminary tests on the PSU. The good news is that you don't need any resistors, you can just short all the pins. The bad news is that the PSU is very limited in the continuous output power.

My test setup was: C7 to C6 (GND) with a jumper, C2 to GND, A2 to +12V and A3 to GND. With that you get a stable ~12.4V out.

View attachment 44476

The result with ~700W load from the wall was that I had to stop the testing due to the PSU starting to overheat:

View attachment 44477

I tried blowing the hottest area with compressed air, to get an idea how much cooling might be needed for continuous 700W, and the result wasn't great. The compressed air does cool, but the temperature climbs very quickly back to 100C:

View attachment 44478
My best guess is that you can pull somewhere around 250-350W while the PSU is passively cooled. With added air flow you can roughly double that to 600W, maybe even push to 1000W with high RPM fans. This result kind of makes sense, since the PSU is made for the PowerVault ME4084 with 84x 3.5" HDD. The PSU only needs to supply the 2200W for the short duration it takes for 84 drives to spin up. After the system is powered on the power consumption roughly halves, so you'd be looking at 1100W per PSU on spin up and only around 550W in-use.
I'm a bit puzzled because PSUs that are about half as small (thinking Dell/Supermicro 1U Redundant PSUs) can deliver ~ 1kW continuously without Issues I believe.

I agree that they are typically oversized to have Room to spin up Hard Drives.

But 600W with some Air Flow seems very low.

About Passive Cooling, keep in Mind that Load Current != Filter Current, thus the Capacitors are ALWAYS stressed (a bit more / a bit less), even though the Load Current might be Zero. So you ALWAYS need some Airflow to cool the Capacitors down. And the Filter Choke to a lower extent.

About the Fan Cooling, are you sure the Cooling was done in an uniform Manner, i.e. NOT focused only on one Point ? Did you put the Lid back on during the air Flow Test ? I ask because without a Duct the Air will NOT be forced front to Back and will just escape from the Top.

Other Possibility is of course to use a big Fan (140mm or 200mm), take the Lid OFF, then force all air from Top to Back of the PSU.

The Choice depends of course on how you plan to integrate the PSU into the rest of your System.

I had done a similar thing with my Solar Inverter: when I sealed up all Gaps with some PC Plates & Silicone Sealing Strips, Temperatures at very low Load dropped from ~ 55°C to around 25 °C. You need to have the air properly guided from Front to back. Lid is one Way. But if your Fan is bigger than 1U or if it's not "flush" with the PSU, then you need some Air Duct to force all air through. And of course, you need enough Static Pressure to achieve that Airflow (P/Q Curve for Fans).

Personally I'd probably stack 3 of these Suckers up and try with an Arctic Cooling P12/P14 Max in the Front to get relatively good Airflow & Static Pressure at Human survivable Noise Level ;) .

Alternatively each of them with the LID off and an Arctic Cooling P14 Max on top, forcing the air to the Back of the PSU.

You could of course try to drill some extra Holes in the Lid or even at the front of the PSU, especially if you cannot achieve enough Static Pressure with the Fans that you are using right now.

If you use high RPM Fans (> 2500 rpm), be careful with your Fingers, put some Fan Grills on to avoid getting them torn apart :rolleyes:.
 

mideel

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I'm a bit puzzled because PSUs that are about half as small (thinking Dell/Supermicro 1U Redundant PSUs) can deliver ~ 1kW continuously without Issues I believe.

I agree that they are typically oversized to have Room to spin up Hard Drives.

But 600W with some Air Flow seems very low.

About Passive Cooling, keep in Mind that Load Current != Filter Current, thus the Capacitors are ALWAYS stressed (a bit more / a bit less), even though the Load Current might be Zero. So you ALWAYS need some Airflow to cool the Capacitors down. And the Filter Choke to a lower extent.

About the Fan Cooling, are you sure the Cooling was done in an uniform Manner, i.e. NOT focused only on one Point ? Did you put the Lid back on during the air Flow Test ? I ask because without a Duct the Air will NOT be forced front to Back and will just escape from the Top.

Other Possibility is of course to use a big Fan (140mm or 200mm), take the Lid OFF, then force all air from Top to Back of the PSU.

The Choice depends of course on how you plan to integrate the PSU into the rest of your System.

I had done a similar thing with my Solar Inverter: when I sealed up all Gaps with some PC Plates & Silicone Sealing Strips, Temperatures at very low Load dropped from ~ 55°C to around 25 °C. You need to have the air properly guided from Front to back. Lid is one Way. But if your Fan is bigger than 1U or if it's not "flush" with the PSU, then you need some Air Duct to force all air through. And of course, you need enough Static Pressure to achieve that Airflow (P/Q Curve for Fans).

Personally I'd probably stack 3 of these Suckers up and try with an Arctic Cooling P12/P14 Max in the Front to get relatively good Airflow & Static Pressure at Human survivable Noise Level ;) .

Alternatively each of them with the LID off and an Arctic Cooling P14 Max on top, forcing the air to the Back of the PSU.

You could of course try to drill some extra Holes in the Lid or even at the front of the PSU, especially if you cannot achieve enough Static Pressure with the Fans that you are using right now.

If you use high RPM Fans (> 2500 rpm), be careful with your Fingers, put some Fan Grills on to avoid getting them torn apart :rolleyes:.
I had the lid completely off during the testing and I used the air compressor at some distance, but that shouldn't be a problem because the volume of air coming from an air compressor is much greater than any fan. It did work and cooled it down quite dramatically, but it started to heat back up again just as quickly.

The main problem I see with the PSU is the design, it's seems to be specifically made for this one system and nothing else. There is no fan and it's completely sealed on the bottom, sides and behind. The air you push in through the front has to come out through the vents on the top. This is different from the 1U PSUs that have powerful fans and push the air back to front. To cool this PSU I feel like you'd need a small high RPM axial fan or a blower fan.

Now that I know which part gets the hottest, I'll try testing with the case on, thermocouple and a fan.
 

luckylinux

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I had the lid completely off during the testing and I used the air compressor at some distance, but that shouldn't be a problem because the volume of air coming from an air compressor is much greater than any fan. It did work and cooled it down quite dramatically, but it started to heat back up again just as quickly.
I guess for the Air Compressor you used the "standard" (very small) Nozzle, didn't you ?

Or course that's not working the Air through all of the Components in the "Normal" Way (Top to Back).

The main problem I see with the PSU is the design, it's seems to be specifically made for this one system and nothing else.
Sure, we are DIY-ing here :cool: .

But it's still a PSU that needs Cooling that obeys by the same Laws of Physics. You know, Fan Curves (P/Q), Flow Mechanics, etc.

We are NOT talking about Quantum Physics :p.

There is no fan and it's completely sealed on the bottom, sides and behind.
Sure, because the System Integrator (Dell) had the Task of ensuring that there is sufficient Airflow going through this Power Supply at all Times.

Take e.g. a LSI 9300-8i. It has no Fan. But it clearly specifies in the Datasheet that you must ensure an Airflow of at least 200 linear feet per minute (LFM):

Same for your CPU, Network Card, etc. Just because it doesn't have a Fan built-in, it doesn't mean that it doesn't need Airflow from the System ;).

It could very well be yet another example of pushing the Can/Problem (and Cost) down the Road: "look, our PSU is high Power Density, but of course we don't provide a Fan, because that would decrease our Power Density Datasheet Claim by 5% or so". Although to be fair, in this Case, I believe that 40+ HDDs need A LOT of Airflow, so the PSU would anyways get some for "free".

It also improves the Efficiency Figures of the PSU because you do NOT need to provide Power (~ 1W-20W) for the Fan yourself :p.

The air you push in through the front has to come out through the vents on the top. This is different from the 1U PSUs that have powerful fans and push the air back to front. To cool this PSU I feel like you'd need a small high RPM axial fan or a blower fan.
Or a Duct / Ventilation Channel. You do NOT necessarily need a Small Fan. You need Airflow and Static Pressure.
Airflow can be either:
- Small Fan high RPM
- Big Fan reasonable RPM with a Duct

Just to prove my Point:

But yeah, you can also use a Centrifugal (Blower) Fan if you want to. Several Ways to solve a Problem.

You just need a Fan that can Provide:
- Enough Airflow
- Enough Static Pressure at that Airflow when connected to this PSU

The Rest is Mechanical Integration.

Now that I know which part gets the hottest, I'll try testing with the case on, thermocouple and a fan.
I'd trust the Thermocouple more than a Thermal Camera on a non-black (and potentially quite reflective, those Parts are silver-ish) Surface.

With the Thermal Camera you might also be getting VERY wrong Results. You should really be painting the surface you are analyzing Black.

Did you check the Idle Power (and your low ~300W Load) with a Kill-a-Watt Meter by the Way ? At 300W you should be at 13.6% Load.

80+ Platinum requires:
- At least 90% Efficiency at 20% Load (440W), which would translate into <= 89W Losses
- At least 94% Efficiency at 50% Load (1100W), which would translate into <= 70W Losses
- At least 91% Efficiency at 100% Load (2200W), which would translate into <= 217W Losses

Temperature Measurement should be accompanied by Power Loss Measurement which, while not 100% accurate depending how you do it (Kill-A-Watt, Smart Plug, etc) - please keep in Mind Power Factor / cos_phi though - can provide a cross-check against your Temperature Measurement. Airflow Measurement using an Anemometer should provide Feedback of the last Missing Piece of the Equation.

Another Thing to keep in Mind: your DIY "PCB" with those tiny soldered Joints etc is providing:
a) A relatively high Resistance
b) Not a lot of cooling by Conduction. If you look at Standards for sizing of e.g. Breakers/Contactors/etc you'll see that Cables/Busbars need to be the right Cross-Section and at least IIRC. 1.5m (or even 3.0m) on either Side. That's for Cooling by Conduction, since the Component they are connected to is a "Power Source" which needs a "Power Sink" to dump losses into.

Not necessarily True provided you ensure sufficient Airflow, which does NOT seem to be the case until now.
 

mideel

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Here's some numbers with my 175W electronic load and the case closed:

Input current (A)​
Output current (A)​
Input Power (W)​
Output power (W)​
Power factor​
Efficiency​
Dissipated power (W)​
0.5​
1​
72​
12.4​
0.63​
0.17​
59.6​
0.51​
2​
76​
24.8​
0.64​
0.33​
51.2​
0.53​
3​
84​
37.2​
0.67​
0.44​
46.8​
0.54​
4​
87​
49.5​
0.68​
0.57​
37.5​
0.57​
5​
96​
62​
0.72​
0.65​
34​
0.61​
6​
109​
74.4​
0.76​
0.68​
34.6​
0.66​
7​
122​
86.8​
0.79​
0.71​
35.2​
0.7​
8​
135​
99.2​
0.82​
0.73​
35.8​
0.75​
9​
148​
111.5​
0.84​
0.75​
36.5​
0.8​
10​
162​
123.9​
0.86​
0.76​
38.1​
0.85​
11​
175​
136​
0.87​
0.78​
39​
0.9​
12​
188​
148​
0.89​
0.79​
40​
0.95​
13​
201​
161​
0.9​
0.80​
40​
1.01​
14​
215​
173​
0.91​
0.80​
42​

Anything in the 1-3A output current range and the PFC circuitry just dies (heatsink rapidly reaches 120C and the output turns off), not even a lot of airflow can seem to stop that.

At 10A and a little bit of airflow the PFC heatsink got to 64C equilibrium, increasing the output current to 14A and the temperature decreases further to 59C. Since the power factor on my 700W input power test was 0.98, I'd guess that anything under the optimal power factor causes that circuitry to not function properly. That also explains the sparking noise at no load (0.04 power factor with no 12V output, 0.09 with 12V output enabled, but no load).

Due to the way the PFC seems to function there doesn't seem to be any way to use this power supply passively. Too low output current and the PFC over heats and dies. Too high output current and 12V output stage heats up and requires airflow.

When the PFC is the hottest component it seems hard to get airflow back there. A 120mm fan blowing air at the case doesn't do much, but even a little direct airflow from a blower fan at 0.6W (8V 0.075A) can cool the PFC heatsink just fine to 64C.

At 215W input power the PFC is by far the hottest component in the system. At 700W input power the PFC cools itself passively (no airflow required), but the output stage gets to 110C.

It's a bummer that this PSU seems to require a load around 7A for the PFC to not overheat. It's not the end of the world, but it kind of limits the versatility. When I have time I'll try to test up to 50A, but that's kind limit for my equipment.
 

luckylinux

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Anything in the 1-3A output current range and the PFC circuitry just dies (heatsink rapidly reaches 120C and the output turns off), not even a lot of airflow can seem to stop that.
That makes NO SENSE to me in Normal Operation. See the Bottom of the Post for more abnormal Scenario.

I agree that if the Output Current is too low, then the Power Factor will be low and Oscillating quite a bit, since the DC-link Capacitors can hold most of the Power required by the Output Circuit on their own (without need for much Input Current). Thus there will be some "Pumping" Action from the Input from Time to Time at low Load.

I'd expect the Power Factor to oscillate in Time. Did you get your Measurement with an Oscilloscope or just a Kill-A-Watt Meter ?

That the Power Factor is bad a low Output Load is not a Surprise.

That it overheats it DEFINITELY is a big Surprise though :oops: .

I can only speculate that, for whatever Reason, the Oscillation Amplitude and/or Frequency is higher than expected.

This means that the PFC Switching Frequency is not fixed but somewhat Variable. Heck, at extremely low Load it might even switch Off from Time to Time. That can only be observed with an Oscilloscope though.

I'd expect at very low Load they might want to REDUCE the PFC Switching Frequency, which should reduce Losses, but increase current Ripple.

When you say that the "PFC Overheats", do you mean the Transistors ? Or the filter Choke ?

If you have a HV differential Probe (do NOT do this directly with an Oscilloscope) you could try to look at the Transistors Gate-Source Voltage and see if there is something weird happening with their Switching Pulses at low Load.

But again ... to overheat so badly at low-load is a bit of a Mistery.

Are you sure it's the PFC Circuit ?

At 10A and a little bit of airflow the PFC heatsink got to 64C equilibrium, increasing the output current to 14A and the temperature decreases further to 59C. Since the power factor on my 700W input power test was 0.98, I'd guess that anything under the optimal power factor causes that circuitry to not function properly. That also explains the sparking noise at no load (0.04 power factor with no 12V output, 0.09 with 12V output enabled, but no load).
Well that's roughly 3A Input Current, for a 10A Input Nominal Current (~ ish). Of course they don't design PFC to be optimal at 0.01% Load :p.

But that a bad PF causes the PFC to overheat is really weird to me.

Do you mean this Heatsink is getting very hot ?

:cool:1752117532448.png

Due to the way the PFC seems to function there doesn't seem to be any way to use this power supply passively. Too low output current and the PFC over heats and dies. Too high output current and 12V output stage heats up and requires airflow.
Again, that doesn't make much sense to me.

Unless ... Their PFC Circuit tries to over-compensate and thus INCREASES the Switching Frequency quite a bit at low-load.

Which IMHO is exactly the Opposite of what I'd expect, since that kills Efficiency (forget about the PF at low Load).

But also that shouldn't overheat, even 10x Switching Frequency shouldn't matter if current is 10x smaller than Nominal. Except if they have a very bad Diode (Reverse Recovery).

When the PFC is the hottest component it seems hard to get airflow back there.
Back there ? The PFC is in the Front ...

A 120mm fan blowing air at the case doesn't do much.
Well, you have to blow Air through the Case, not on the Case. Without a Duct you'd have zero Chance.

but even a little direct airflow from a blower fan at 0.6W (8V 0.075A) can cool the PFC heatsink just fine to 64C.
At which Input Current Load is that ?

At 215W input power the PFC is by far the hottest component in the system.
Again, weird. I'd say the Switching Frequency is going UP at low Load, which is the Opposite of what I'd expect.

But also THAT doesn't explain why it's overheating that much to be honest.

Like even if Switching Frequency is 10x Higher (and for the sake of Argument let's say that at Reasonable Load Switching Losses are 50% of the Total, other 50% being Conduction Losses), then that shouldn't really overheat, since the CURRENT is 10x lower than Nominal ...

At 700W input power the PFC cools itself passively (no airflow required), but the output stage gets to 110C.
Output Stage with no Airflow ? For ~ 30% Nominal Power I'd say it's not too Bad :).

It's a bummer that this PSU seems to require a load around 7A for the PFC to not overheat. It's not the end of the world, but it kind of limits the versatility. When I have time I'll try to test up to 50A, but that's kind limit for my equipment.
If you have a Scope it would be interesting to investigate the PFC Circuit as to why it behaves like this and what changes between very low Load and 7A Load.

You will need HV Differential Probes and Oscilloscope (and lots of Caution).

I have those but ... right now I don't have much Time unfortunately :(.


Anecdotally, I have seen something similar-ish at work (NOT at very low load though) BUT ... to explain the Overheat Phenomenon, I think we have to look at abnormal Operation right now.

One such case is a Shoot-Through, but the only Way to have that for this Topology is if they do a Synchronous Rectification with MOSFET after the Boost. Basically 2 transistors shorting the DC Capacitor for a Fraction of a Microsecond each Time.

Another one could be having 2 Boost PFC interleaved with insufficient Inductance in-between them, so you kinda get current circulation between them. Again, not something I at first Sight see happening for this Topology.

And of course if anything causes the Semiconductor to heat up, the Switching Waveforms can SEVERELY be affected, thus the Turn On / Turn Off (Rise & Delay) Parameters can vary dramatically. A Semiconductor Timing at ambient Temperature is very different than when Hot.

It could also be caused by a slightly different Component Batch from the Semiconductor Supplier of course.

Funnily enough I saw this in a Paper, could indeed be what's going on, if the Controller things that we are always around Zero-Crossing:
1752118835873.png


Aside from that, the other Things that comes to Mind is: Diode Reverse Recovery.

IF the Switching Frequency increases at low Load, then the Diode of the PFC might be overheating.

MOSFET Conduction & Switching Losses are current dependent for the most Part (if you exclude the Gate Driver Losses).

Diode Reverse Recovery (Qrr/trr) is not. That mostly depends on the Switching Frequency.

So if Losses are definitively going up at low Load, the Switching Frequency is increasing, but there is no Shoot-Through or Current Circulation between Parallel Converters, Diode Reverse Recovery might be the explanation.

And if that is the Case, then I'm afraid we don't really have much Options.

I don't know if what they have installed right now is a PFC Diode + MOSFET in a single Package or as separate Discrete Components.

Depending what they have installed, it might be worth considering replacing those with a SIC/Schotty Variant.

With the Downside of course that we would have to find a way to "drive" the Diode (some SIC Diodes, at least when built inside a MOSFET Package/Module, have extremely high forward Voltage up to 4V, thus they need to be bypassed by the MOSFET !), if they do NOT have a Synchronous Bridge Rectifier Control already implemented.


 

mideel

New Member
Jun 20, 2025
15
6
3
Do you mean this Heatsink is getting very hot ?

View attachment 44522
I had the thermocouples mixed up (had trouble with my less than good thermometer, it kept reading nonsense due to the switching noise). The heatsink that gets hot is the one on the right side of that. Which should be part of the switching stage and not the PFC.

Here's my final results, there might be some discrepancy due to the heating/cooling, but it should be in the ballpark:

Input current (A)​
Output current (A)​
Input Power (W)​
Output power A (W)​
Output power B (W)​
Output power Total​
Power factor​
Efficiency​
Dissipated power (W)​
0.5​
1​
72​
12.4​
12.4​
0.63​
0.17​
59.6​
0.51​
2​
76​
24.8​
24.8​
0.64​
0.33​
51.2​
0.53​
3​
84​
37.2​
37.2​
0.67​
0.44​
46.8​
0.54​
4​
87​
49.5​
49.5​
0.68​
0.57​
37.5​
0.57​
5​
96​
62​
62​
0.72​
0.65​
34​
0.61​
6​
109​
74.4​
74.4​
0.76​
0.68​
34.6​
0.66​
7​
122​
86.8​
86.8​
0.79​
0.71​
35.2​
0.7​
8​
135​
99.2​
99.2​
0.82​
0.73​
35.8​
0.75​
9​
148​
111.5​
111.5​
0.84​
0.75​
36.5​
0.8​
10​
162​
123.9​
123.9​
0.86​
0.76​
38.1​
0.85​
11​
175​
136​
136​
0.87​
0.78​
39​
0.9​
12​
188​
148​
148​
0.89​
0.79​
40​
0.95​
13​
201​
161​
161​
0.9​
0.80​
40​
1.01​
14​
215​
173​
173​
0.91​
0.80​
42​
1.05​
15​
227​
173​
12.38​
185.38​
0.91​
0.82​
41.62​
1.1​
16​
241​
173​
24.76​
197.76​
0.92​
0.82​
43.24​
1.16​
17​
254​
173​
37.13​
210.13​
0.93​
0.83​
43.87​
1.21​
18​
268​
173​
49.49​
222.49​
0.93​
0.83​
45.51​
1.26​
19​
281​
173​
61.84​
234.84​
0.94​
0.84​
46.16​
1.32​
20​
294​
173​
74.18​
247.18​
0.94​
0.84​
46.82​
1.38​
21​
309​
173​
86.51​
259.51​
0.95​
0.84​
49.49​
1.43​
22​
322​
173​
98.83​
271.83​
0.95​
0.84​
50.17​
1.49​
23​
336​
173​
111.15​
284.15​
0.95​
0.85​
51.85​
1.55​
24​
350​
173​
123.46​
296.46​
0.96​
0.85​
53.54​
1.61​
25​
363​
173​
135.74​
308.74​
0.96​
0.85​
54.26​
1.67​
26​
378​
173​
147.99​
320.99​
0.96​
0.85​
57.01​
1.72​
27​
391​
173​
160.26​
333.26​
0.96​
0.85​
57.74​
1.78​
28​
405​
173​
172.5​
345.5​
0.96​
0.85​
59.5​
1.84​
29​
418​
173​
184.75​
357.75​
0.97​
0.86​
60.25​
1.9​
30​
432​
173​
196.98​
369.98​
0.97​
0.86​
62.02​
1.95​
31​
446​
173​
209.18​
382.18​
0.97​
0.86​
63.82​
2.01​
32​
460​
173​
221.38​
394.38​
0.97​
0.86​
65.62​
2.01​
33​
457​
173​
233.56​
406.56​
0.97​
0.89​
50.44​
2.76​
46​
635​
173​
390.97​
563.97​
0.98​
0.89​
71.03​

With the case closed and a fan blowing in air (24V blower fan at 12V and 0.118A) nothing reaches worrying temps.

Hot components.jpg

The hottest components at 46A output current are circled in red. The heatsink that gets extremely hot and causes the thermal shutdown at low load is circled in yellow.

Thermal.jpg

With the case open and some airflow, even the hottest part in the output doesn't get worryingly hot.
 

luckylinux

Well-Known Member
Mar 18, 2012
1,421
436
83
I had the thermocouples mixed up (had trouble with my less than good thermometer, it kept reading nonsense due to the switching noise). The heatsink that gets hot is the one on the right side of that. Which should be part of the switching stage and not the PFC.
The PFC IS switching. I believe they use Active PFC (Boost Converter) on such a high Power Module.

Passive PFC will NOT let you achieve PF > 0.8 on a Single Phase Supply at any Load ....

The hottest components at 46A output current are circled in red. The heatsink that gets extremely hot and causes the thermal shutdown at low load is circled in yellow.

View attachment 44538

With the case open and some airflow, even the hottest part in the output doesn't get worryingly hot.
Again I'm not sure I'd trust the Thermal Camera on Silver color & reflective Surfaces.

I also agree that the Thermocouple is quite Bad with Switching Noise, PT100 properly shielded would be better (but also more expensive). Alternative is of course to use Temperature Stickers (but expensive) OR ... just paint the Heatsink black :p .

Without reverse engineering everything, and just on a first Glance, I would have expected that there are 2 Output Stages that are paralleled in order to achieve the huge output Current (220A) at 12V.

Especially weird that the Chokes are so stressed at low Load. That could also be an Indication that the Switching Frequency is getting higher than Designed (thus Iron Losses also increase, even though current Ripple decreases).

Do you know what the Silver "plate" where you put the Thermocouple with Kapton Tape is ? Are these the Diodes/MOSFETs on the Secondary Side of the HF Transformer or just the Gate Driver Circuit with a mini Heatsink on Top ? There seems to be something like 4 x SOIC-8 SMD Components (Diodes/MOSFETs) but these are way too small for the Current that needs to be rectified ... Yet it seems to be quite oversized for a Gate Driver Circuit for such low Operating Voltage.
 

mideel

New Member
Jun 20, 2025
15
6
3
Again I'm not sure I'd trust the Thermal Camera on Silver color & reflective Surfaces.
It's not the reflective surface that the thermal camera is measuring, it's the black case of the SMD component (there's a gap between the SMD component and the metal case on top).A thermocouple gives roughly the same reading, so the reading is accurate enough. Also the front case has a sticker on it, which gives a good enough surface to read the temperature.

Do you know what the Silver "plate" where you put the Thermocouple with Kapton Tape is ? Are these the Diodes/MOSFETs on the Secondary Side of the HF Transformer or just the Gate Driver Circuit with a mini Heatsink on Top ?
No idea, but it's those components that are getting the hottest when you start pulling current. Which makes sense from a thermal design perspective that you'd put those at the front where the most airflow is.
 

luckylinux

Well-Known Member
Mar 18, 2012
1,421
436
83
No idea, but it's those components that are getting the hottest when you start pulling current. Which makes sense from a thermal design perspective that you'd put those at the front where the most airflow is.
Actually it could very well be the Power MOSFETs in SO-8 or 8-SOIC Package of ~20A-50A each:


The tiny "Heatsink" is most likely to ensure correct Current sharing between Parallel MOSFETs, by ensuring that they operate at the same Temperature.

Weird because then I don't know what the other ones directly on the main PCB are (just near the Power Connector from MOLEX).