Build a Bear.... err Server Room (both need alot of insulation/stuffing?)

Notice: Page may contain affiliate links for which we may earn a small commission through services like Amazon Affiliates or Skimlinks.

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
TLDR: Planning on building a insulated server room box in the attic.

Ok, so I've been in my new house for 3 months and I just can't find a good spot in the house I am able to put a server rack/room/area.
Nothing has an option to beef up cooling/add a duct or is in a large enough area the heat is negated by central air. (I also would prefer not to have to buy a dedicated a/c unit).

I do however have a large attic space (about 600sq ft), and as of a few weeks ago now layered with plyboard instead of just open ceiling joists.
So on the semi unused 8'x8' landing area (the rest is for storage of crap), I'm gonna build a server box however being in Texas ~ summers suck.
This week it's a high of 106 so in the 130s in the attic ~ I have good ventilation and radiant barriers so it could be worse, but still hot hot hot.
That said I've got to build a really well insulated box or I'm gonna be leaking conditioned air like a mofo and the hard drives are gonna run hot or my electric bill is gonna sizzle during the summer.

Below is my initial brainstorm plan for just the box which should yield a 30" x 30" x 30" internally usable cube after sheet rock finishing with 8" of insulation rated at R30 on the top and sides. The bottom will be 6" of insulation plus the base at roughly R25, the 28"x28" door panel I'm still trying to figure out how to seal it really well, but probably will attach a insulation board over it to seal as best I can when not being accessed so im hoping will get R10-15 on that side.

I'm planning a negative air pressure run with a 6" vent intake from the house (white board on the left of the picture is wall access to the house) to the bottom front of the box (with a filter) and the exhaust in the top rear of the box opposite to the intake with a metal inline fan pulling about 120 CFM to the central air return ~ I'm not looking for massive flow just enough to get fresh flow for the 350w or so of compute I'm generating which should be sufficient.

Lastly I'll be running 2x cat 6a ports, 2x 25 ft SFP+ cables (to the inbound gateway in my master closet), and 2x dedicated 20a circuits to it, one for each box (which is overkill, but I prefer the separate circuit/breaker redundancy).

Would love any input or suggestions, I'll be posting updates as the build goes along (but make take several weeks as its probably nearly 1k in materials and as I noted hot AF right now up there, so not sure I particularly want to build it ASAP during peak heat.

Stay tuned though! ~ also BEHOLD MY SUPERIOR MS PAINT SKILLS

 
Last edited:

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
Ok, so originally I was gonna wait but they put the Dewalt tools I wanted for $175 off, so I picked up about 90% of the materials and ordered my tools and got an extra $100 of signing up for the home depot card so $275 save total, not bad. Total spent so far with tax $1,170.21
Should have everything in by mid next week with ship to store.

My wallet hurts 1598647826077.png
 
Last edited:

svtkobra7

Active Member
Jan 2, 2017
362
87
28
First, subsrcibed as I love DIY projects. Let me share what I did (benefit for you = confirmation that 120 CFM fan is sufficient) [1]:
  • This is in a condo and the closet was not deep enough for horizontal mounting, so I went vertical.
  • My options were quite limited to make this work: 1200 sq ft condo = space concerns / heat & noise concerns / etc.
  • Yes the HDDs face the floor, but no, I've never had one drop.
  • If you think about it, in this "system" you actually want the HDDs pulling cool, dense air from floor level.
  • Which is only supplied from a 3/8" gap under the closet door.
  • Servers expel warm air forcefully upwards, aided by convection, and it is ultimately extracted by a ~100CFM bathroom fan and dumped elsewhere.
  • Servers throw off a good bit of heat and at 80F ambient I still maintain low 30Cs HDDs temps.
    • 2 x 2690v2 + 2 x 2680 v2 + 24 3.5" HDDs etc
  • That fan will eventually fail (not rated for 24/7 use), but it has been going strong for 2+ years now.
A couple of notes:
  • I stripped the whole closet to the studs so I could insert Rockwool Safe N Sound sound abatement insulation and so
  • wood "blocking" could be added (because I over-engineer) and metal studs are crap. Obv I was hanging some weight on the wall.
The best part:
  • Other than this solution somehow miraculously working ... LOL
  • When time to sell my condo: (1) Simply remove all components from Plywood panel; (2) Lift upwards on Plywood panel and remove (it is not fastened to the wall by anything other than a french cleat and gravity); (3) Unscrew 5 screws holding french cleat in place and patch; (4) Leave vent in place (looks close enough to a normal light anyway); (5) Done.





NB: Last picture includes "SchnauzerSense" - you know your last line of physical defense when pfSense fails you ;) 16 years old and still running like a champ (after a minor tune up of a cataract removal in one eye). Not GA yet, sorry.

Love that dog, he even helps with shucking EasyStores ...
(oops)

[1] I highly doubt I'm seeing anywhere close to 100CFM despite the rating of the fan and with a negative pressure environment.
 
Last edited:

svtkobra7

Active Member
Jan 2, 2017
362
87
28
Ok, so originally I was gonna wait but they put the Dewalt tools I wanted for $175 off, so I picked up about 90% of the materials and ordered my tools and got an extra $100 of signing up for the home depot card so $275 save total, not bad. Total spent so far with tax $1,170.21
Should have everything in by mid next week with ship to store.

My wallet hurts View attachment 15538
But they will last forever (jealous I use lowly Ryobi). And look at it this way, what would you pay for a contractor to come in and charge you for it and not do it to your spec? Looks like a fun project!
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
Nice, I went with that same type of patch panel and cables in my master closet.
I wanted all the ports recessed and those slim cables are amazing and still 6a rated.

I actually modified my selection with a mixed mode sealed fan instead of the metal one, so it has up to 1.06mm static pressure rating and can do either 250 CFM or 167 CFM in low mode (which i'll start in low mode but have a high mode for if the summer happens to get too hot, I can move more air).
Its also rated for 40k hours so I'm hoping it'll last at least 5y.

But they will last forever (jealous I use lowly Ryobi). And look at it this way, what would you pay for a contractor to come in and charge you for it and not do it to your spec? Looks like a fun project!
I quoted it out from a contractor I've used to do other shiz I didnt want to do around the house (like laying that plyboard I mentioned).
His quote was about $4k including parts and labor, hence why I'm doing it myself and getting tools in the process :).
At the end of the day I don't know that they would have built it to my exacting specifications either they're not IT guys.

I opted for all of the really nice stuff too, my wife wants me to do some wood working projects so I picked up the 20v MAX XR model saw, drill, impact wrench, and jigsaw ~ I wanted to get away from cables finally and I have low enough usage that a pair of batteries should last me long enough.

That will allow me to use their other tool lines if I need to pick up specific ones and use the same battery packs.
 
Last edited:

svtkobra7

Active Member
Jan 2, 2017
362
87
28
Nice, I went with that same type of patch panel and cables in my master closet.
I wanted all the ports recessed and those slim cables are amazing and still 6a rated.
Note: I may be a little OCD ... you can prolly figure out the meaning of the colors (tried to adhere to TIA/EIA spec - yes one actually exists although not used)
I actually modified my selection with a mixed mode sealed fan instead of the metal one, so it has up to 1.06mm static pressure rating and can do either 250 CFM or 167 CFM in low mode (which i'll start in low mode but have a high mode for if the summer happens to get too hot, I can move more air).
Its also rated for 40k hours so I'm hoping it'll last at least 5y.
Thats got some hp compared to the fan I'm using and thought about going that route, but I killed two birds with one stone with a lighted bathroom fan. And it gets the job done.
At the end of the day I don't know that they would have built it to my exacting specifications either.
EXACTLY. Nor will they come up with creative (read my @$$hat solution) like bending the "lip" of a metal stud out so a proper 2x4 stud can be inserted inside and fastened. Never seen that done actually, but it works. And well.
I opted for all of the really nice stuff too, my wife wants me to do some wood working projects so I picked up the 20v MAX XR model saw, drill, impact wrench, and jigsaw ~ I wanted to get away from cables finally and I have low enough usage that a pair of batteries should last me long enough.
Nice. I always love whipping out the rotary hammer drill to drill into the 6" concrete floor (between levels) as the vibration from the hammer action can be felt across the entire floor LOL. Jk of course, but when I replaced sliding glass closet doors needed to use one and that is a surefire way to piss your condo neighbors off "quick-like".

GL and I for one look forward to updates! :)
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
I just got the ready notification for the large portion of the building materials, but the one thing I need, the saw, is out of stock in store :(.
Gonna have to wait till mid next week for it to come in.
 

ReturnedSword

Active Member
Jun 15, 2018
526
235
43
Santa Monica, CA
Interestingly, I have the same drill/impact driver set (except in a hard carry case, which I got for the same price as the soft bag a couple Labor Day’s ago). Today my drill died in the middle of pre-drilling holes for a can crusher in the garage. :confused:
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
Interestingly, I have the same drill/impact driver set (except in a hard carry case, which I got for the same price as the soft bag a couple Labor Day’s ago). Today my drill died in the middle of pre-drilling holes for a can crusher in the garage. :confused:
Yeah i saw the hard case options but most were for the atomic compact line I wanted the XR at minimum (not doing anything crazy enough for the flexvolt 60v product line).

That bites is it <3 years old? If so might be in warranty, they do have service centers that can repair out of warranty too if needed.
 

ReturnedSword

Active Member
Jun 15, 2018
526
235
43
Santa Monica, CA
Yeah i saw the hard case options but most were for the atomic compact line I wanted the XR at minimum (not doing anything crazy enough for the flexvolt 60v product line).

That bites is it <3 years old? If so might be in warranty, they do have service centers that can repair out of warranty too if needed.
I bought it around Labor Day 2017, so just under 3 years hopefully. I’ll give them a call on Monday:confused:

You’re right the Atomic line is a bit too small. The 20V line is the perfect size. I had the 18V versions years back, but wanted something a bit newer and smaller. Sadly, this was probably the 3rd or 4th time I’ve ever even used the drill. I haven’t had as much time to do home projects in the preceding years. Now there’s plenty of time due to the lockdowns ;)
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
So new development that I'm considering, surprisingly my attic only gets to 110 deg (It was a feel of 103 today), however, my garage stayed below 95, which I like that delta alot better.

So I’m trying to see if I can find a good spot to keep the same size box to build near the ceiling and then have the intake tap into the house (into the laudry room maybe, where noise wouldnt matter if it could be heard through the vent, only concern would be moisture ~ any input on that?) ~ i have brand new washer and dryers and had the dryer duct cleaned.

Then I’d exaust the-same way I planned through the ducts in the attic to the air return, It would give me even better insulation as instead of the foam board i could fill the top side 2x12 joist with insulation on the top and 1-2 of the 3 sides could be bumped up to drywall so I’d need alot less material than planned too.

lower delta lower R insulation need, going to look at some spots and go back to the blueprint drawing board.
 

badskater

Automation Architect
May 8, 2013
129
44
28
Canada
@Spartacus don't know if it's available in your area, but I used this insulation for my own server room and nearly don't ear anything (only the door let some noise out for me). SAFE'n'SOUND Sound Proof Insulation | ROCKWOOL

Personally, I made the vent for hot air go into the garage, as it's a non-insulated garage, and the temps were on average from 40 to 95 (living in the pacific north west has its advantages for this) I did that so my wife would stop complaining it's cold in the room above the garage too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: svtkobra7

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
I'm not that worried about sound though I'm worried about heat leak or rather cooling leak in my case.
All the locations I'm considering are either isolated, or far enoguh from living spaces it the noise will be a minimal factor.

I couldn't find the R rating on that rockwool but, as I noted I'm in Texas so its hot enought for the A/C about 9 months out of the year that R-value matters.
Edit: ha their FAQ says: " Interior insulation products do not require an R-value and as such, we do not brand our interior insulation with this information. "
Aka it sucks so bad we dont want to list it, lol

It wouldn't be advantageous to just dump that moderately warmed air into the garage (theres no room above it and I'm only making 350w of heat), especially at a 150+ CFM rate.

My insulation and issues are primarily centered around heat/cooling rather than noise, thanks for the input all the same though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: badskater

Markess

Well-Known Member
May 19, 2018
1,146
761
113
Northern California
That Rockwool insulation doesn't suck as much as its meant to be primarily for sound deadening. The expectation for that product is that the temperature is the same on both sides of the wall its installed in. But, yeah, you need something else.

Now that you're thinking about the garage, you may want to consider there's that 25+% of the year that your garage is cooler than your house... and at times down right cold. During that time, how is the humidity in the ambient air in the garage? Could you run off the cool/cold air in there and still dump the exhaust into the cold air return (maybe even help heat the house)? I used to live just north of you in Georgetown and my garage was plenty cold to do that a few months a year. But, since I had no computers in the garage back then, I didn't pay attention to what the humidity was like in there when it was cold.

I live in north-central California now and the weather is similar to the hill country out your way. I did a similar thing to what you're thinking of with a cabinet in my garage (not as fancy as your design) that drew air from the garage when it was cool there (just kept the cabinet door propped open a bit), and drew from the house when it was A/C season. I had a thermostat on the side of the cabinet that kicked the fan to draw from the house when it got warm. Mine vented into the garage all year long though, so not as efficient.
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
I keep it at 74 during the summer and 72 during the winter (my kids and wife are temperature temperamental).
I considered the separate duct, but for the 75% of the year efficiency, I think I'd rather just have it always circulating conditioned air rather than try to get fancy with the ducting ya know?
For the sake of simplicity I'd be willing to sacrifice a minor hit in winter performance.

The house is only 3y old so everything from the weather stripping, double pane windows, and insulation is pretty well sealed.
I feel like I'd be compromising that by dumping it into the garage vs recirculating it ya know?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Markess

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
Ok so small update, finally got a chance to do a bit more thinking and have decided my placement in the lower attic area behind the stairs instead of up top. I'll be able to draw in the air from the laundry room (its not humid enough for concern even with the washer/dryer running and it'd cycle out air real quick anyway pics will show why with the fan). Plus I can put an extra filter on the intake to keep the dust to a minimum and it'll be easily accessible to change out that filter in the laundry. Then it'll be easy to exhaust about 15 feet up into the large hallway area with a matching vent.

I got around to starting to cut the studs and framing pieces, ran cat6 for the connectivity, tested placement for the return duct and exhaust register back into the house, as well as confirmed the amount of noise the inline fan would make as well as the air flowing out of the register (no holes cut yet though, don't want to compromise insulation until I'm ready to seat everything).

So basically I feel like I got nothing done in the couple of hours I managed to work on it when it was reasonably cool.



This is the reason humidity will be fine, this thing is ****ing gigantic and will pump some serious air no problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MiniKnight

lte

Member
Apr 13, 2020
94
40
18
DE
Interesting project, maybe my 2cents on A/C:
The shorter the distance of your exhaust pipe to the wall is the better due to 2 reasons:
  1. Pressure loss, your A/C will cycle through less consumption air as a result -> lower temperature differential
  2. Heat dissipation from your pipe to your surroundings - might not seem that critical at first, i recently measured the exhaust air temp of my A/C and it was well above 65 deg celcius (intake temp 33 deg c)
In case you have no other chance or lengths above 1m of exhaust pipe, consider installing a pull fan in the exhaust pipe at the wall opening, thus creating negative pressure on the exhaust pipe and sucking it out of your house instead of pushing it out
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
We’re on the same page.
On the dissipation, that’s why I moved the box it’ll reduce the duct runs to about 5-10ft total and I’m using insulated ducts and registers everywhere, which I will mastic up before/during attaching.
As you noted the in-line fan will be sucking the air to pull to the hallway somewhere along the red exhaust line.

That big ass fan there itself “is” the AC, I’m just pulling cooler conditioned air from inside the laundry to exhaust the heat the servers generate into a larger inside area. This isn’t connected to the AC at all so I don’t have to worry about pressure loss.
 

svtkobra7

Active Member
Jan 2, 2017
362
87
28
@Spartacus don't know if it's available in your area, but I used this insulation for my own server room and nearly don't ear anything (only the door let some noise out for me). SAFE'n'SOUND Sound Proof Insulation | ROCKWOOL
+1 see above post where its in use.
It would be nearly silent if I moved from hollow to solid core door, except ...
there is no complete eradication of noise as I'm using 3/8" under the door as intake.
 

Spartacus

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2019
788
328
63
Austin, TX
+1 see above post where its in use.
It would be nearly silent if I moved from hollow to solid core door, except ...
there is no complete eradication of noise as I'm using 3/8" under the door as intake.
I'd definitely use this if I was converting a closet, but its going to be in the attic and connected to the laundry room/hallway.
The furthest possible from living or bedrooms where noise insulation mattered more over thermal.

My 3rd hdd enclosure just arrived so I can pre-install it in my server before it goes in the box, that'll make adding drives much easier rather than having to pull the box out in it's entirety.

I did manage to pick up a solid core door for free, it was a little garred up on one half of it but I only need about a 30x30 section, I can cut a clean section out for my access panel and scrap the reset.
 
  • Like
Reactions: svtkobra7