The option "1000-full-master" is the correct one, as I have tried it on my 6450 with a Cisco 1G SX, and the link went up...I think my problem with 1G M-LX(SFP transciever not getting the link up at all, has something to do with the port setting. I can not set 1GB Auto or Slave or whatever, as I get the:
"Only Speed-duplex 10g-full or 1000-full-master are allowed on this port"
How can I set one of the ICX-6610 SPF+ ports to act as 1GB port with all the options for me to try.
You bet. My main concern is getting the thing quiet!If you can find a way to defeat all the safty/security of this switch that prevents it from being quieter I'd love to know.
Good info. I'm aware there are other "hot" components in this pizza box IR camera is a quick way to get a heat map of what needs cooling.Mine has a high pitched noise too, maybe it was a batch of Foxconn fans that does this... I'd swap fans on mine too.
Please, don't do it. There are many components beside the main ASIC that rely on airflow to cool themselves... power stages, port driver, PoE board if fitted... Those things are pretty well engineered, I wouldn't bother to """"optimize"""" it...
Oh, and for the power efficiency: in this case, provided that you cannot remove all the fans (otherwise the switch won't boot), and still there's a fan inside the power supply, you'll be adding power requirement for the pump
All good things to be aware of! ..but I dont think they are relevant in this case:if you want to be halfway serious about 3 and 4 percent changes in PSU efficiency, you need to throw away your killawatt. It is not true that it "propagates the same error", if that were true the factory could just program in a static offset and they would match up with a reference grade meter. It's error varies wildly depending on the actual percent of it's full scale measurement running through it (eg 500w versus 900w), the ambient temperature, how long it's been powered up and the resistor network inside it has been allowed to warm up, etc. I've been using a reference grade power meter ( https://ctlsys.com/support/wattnode-modbus/ ) and I have caught killawatts anywhere from 5 to 15 percent off depending on environmental conditions. I would actually consider 5% pretty good for those things based on how bad I've seen them, and obviously that's not going to be of much help when measuring much smaller variances. You simply can't use them for anything other than "yeah, this thing is drawing so me rough amount of power". And while a reference grade multimeter is nice to have, and can be used to measure DC power accurately (and even then, you need two of them), they cannot be used to accurately measure AC. They'll show you apparent power, but not real power. You need a proper power meter that will actually measure and show you AC power factor
Thanks for the info! I got a USB protocol analyzer and it'll be a nice goal to practice RE.Also, while I commend the effort (thinking outside the box is good and how we got a lot of the cool hacks on this forum), I think if you spend probably 20 man-hours replacing the OEM delta's with the best efficiency power supply you find, the 3 or 4 percent efficiency gain you may find, at the barely 100w of draw, is going to equal a lot of work to reduce your draw by literally 4 watts. Keep in mind the switch talks to the PSUs via PMbus (kind of a specialized version of i2c for power supplies), and reads 30 or 40 registers as well as identifying EEPROMs with serial codes etc, so if you want to replace the power supplies you'll need to engineer a microcontroller to fake all that, so perhaps 20 man-hours of work is a low estimation
Within 1-3% of what? Voltage? Current? Phase angle? The error you'll get is the product of all of these errors integrated - also note an oscilloscope with an 8-bit ADC front end is going to give a less accurate measurement for raw voltage (or current, if you're reading voltage from a CT) than a $20 multimeter off of amazon, which is also why the "DVM" function in a lot of scopes (at least ones without 10-bit or higher front ends) only reads out to 3 digits - it's just not what they are designed to do. Scopes are great, but they are the last thing on my entire workbench I would use as a reference for this (unless I was calibrating the phase angle error for a specific CT or something, which most of the higher end energy meters will let you program in, if you can manage to measure it)which shows my Kill-a-Watt is within 1~3%
Watts! I've been talking about power but its good to be explicit.Within 1-3% of what? Voltage? Current? Phase angle? The error you'll get is the product of all of these errors integrated - also note an oscilloscope with an 8-bit ADC front end is going to give a less accurate measurement for raw voltage (or current, if you're reading voltage from a CT) than a $20 multimeter off of amazon, which is also why the "DVM" function in a lot of scopes (at least ones without 10-bit or higher front ends) only reads out to 3 digits - it's just not what they are designed to do. Scopes are great, but they are the last thing on my entire workbench I would use as a reference for this (unless I was calibrating the phase angle error for a specific CT or something, which most of the higher end energy meters will let you program in, if you can manage to measure it)
if the opensource energy meter you speak of claims 0.5% base accuracy, that would be a much better place to start. Note that that is also a function of (a slave to, really) the accuracy of the CT's you use with it, and most of the CTs I see people use with these off ebay are very poor accuracy, especially at the lower ends of the full scale rating. I've found Continental Control Systems CT's to have less than 1% error while still being affordable, however they don't show up for sale very often
I’ve managed to salvage the mangled rack ear!2.5 months after I bought a 6610-48P it’s finally arrived from the USA (shipped to AUS) but it’s been damaged in transit and arrived with a bent rack mount ear and broken heat sink retainer pin
(I could hear a slight rattle inside and opened it up to find the pin broken on one of the larger 2 heat sinks)
Everything else luckily seems ok so far!
No idea how a single retainer pin has snapped, but if someone has a dead unit and would be willing to send me a heat sink retainer pin I’d be happy to pay a reasonable amount!
Same goes if someone wants to sell a set of 2 post or 4 post rack mounts
oh, while you're in there and have the heatsink (kind of) off, can you grab a high res pic of the top of the ASIC? (or otherwise get me the part number). I'm pretty sure through PCI vendor IDs and such I've got it narrowed down to Marvell Cheetah 5, but not sure if that's the 98CX8297 or whatI’ve managed to salvage the mangled rack ear!
I still need a heat sink pin if someone has a dead unit they are willing to take one from? (I’m happy to pay!)
if you need licenses just let me knowWell late to the party but got me some 6610's for our upcoming LAN party's and a 2nd project. Working though getting them cleaned and updated. Thanks to everyone before me for all the info and fohdeesha for letting the cat out of the bag and sticking with it.