Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching)

Discussion in 'Networking' started by fohdeesha, Jul 12, 2018.

  1. infoMatt

    infoMatt Member

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    Exactly, the scope of a DAC cable is to avoid the cost of the dual optic when the distance is short enough...
    The vendor "signature" of the DAC works in the same way as the optics, it is a way for the vendor to recognize that you're using a chain of "verified components"; if a switch or a NIC wouldn't work with a generic/other vendor signed optics, then it wouldn't bring up the link if you use a not-verified DAC (I've tried this with a Cisco original SFP+ DAC in a HP Procurve 2810, the switch refused to link and it shows as a tampered with optics).

    In your case, you could buy an Intel-Intel DAC or an Intel-Brocade one, for your switch it doesn't make any difference and for the DACs you don't get any monitoring anyway, so... no big deal ;)

    If you go to the dual optic + fiber route, you'll need a Brocade SFP+ 10G-SR, an Intel SFP+ 10G-SR and a OM3 or OM4 patch cable.. the OM1 has a bigger core of 62.5nm (instead of the 50nm of the "modern" OM3+ multimode fibers). You might need to "roll the fiber" (ie. swap the fibers left-to-right inside the LC bundle) at one end, in order to connect the TX of one side to the RX of the other... it's more difficult to write it as to do it, and once you've done it once, it would be "second nature"... And, if you use the 850nm wavelength SR optics, 99% of the time you can actually see the light emitted, so you wouldn't do it wrong ;)

    Well.. it depends ;) for short burst then yes, the link would be at 10G so until you have data buffered in memory then yes, you'll get around 1.2GB/s... after you've depleted the buffers, than you're obviously limited by the slowest device in the chain, and most of the time is a spinning disk, so you'll hovering around the 150-180MB/s mark (for bigger files, if you're going to trasfer a lot of small files the performace will obviously drop). ;)

    I hope that what I've written makes sense...
     
    #2161
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  2. pyroguysf

    pyroguysf New Member

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    That's a ton of info on the connections, thanks Matt!

    I guess I phrased that bad, but I know I won't get 10Gb, I'm just tired of the gigabit connection being my bottleneck. I just read some places that it won't pass through 10Gb to 10Gb on one connection, only saturate multiple gigabit connections from a 10Gb.

    A few 10Gb and 24 gigabits will keep me set for a while, so I think I'm going to pull the trigger.
     
    #2162
  3. infoMatt

    infoMatt Member

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    Yes, there might be some tweaking of the parameters, especially if you're using a *nix based NAS, but it would be a problem only if you have a ton of HDD in a RAID0 or 5 configuration (or a full solid state archival solution), because the combined bandwidth of the drive could be enough (if the disk controller, CPU and OS allows for it) to saturate a multigig link. If your NAS has a RAID1 configuration, you're limited obviously by the write speed of the slowest drive, say 150-200MB/s, or ~2500Mbps.
    Try looking for some tweaks (if any) regarding your NAS and your workstation OS version, if the performance doesn't sound right for you. ;)

    There could be some more tweaks to do if you go to the LACP route (ie. multiple interfaces bonded to share their bandwidth), so if the packet hashing algorithm isn't perfect, there could be some cases where a single connection in a bond is forwarded on just one of the links, effectively limiting its speed; if that's the case, using a multi-connection SMB will avoid the problem and share more efficiently the links available.
     
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  4. dwright1542

    dwright1542 Active Member

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    Is there any functional reason to use dual stacking cables between switches, rather than just a single cable, when I'm running in a ring topology? Is it for bandwidth reasons?
     
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  5. gustav9797

    gustav9797 New Member

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    Found a new power meter. Still a cheap type but got around 20W during startup and around 34-40W fully booted on both.
    Time to get the Fluke...
     
    #2165
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  6. Churchill

    Churchill Admiral

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    Anyone have a guide on how to quieten these fans down? I searched through the thread search tool but nothing concrete. Trying to quiet down a 6650 with I think the latest firmware.
     
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  7. dwright1542

    dwright1542 Active Member

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    Has anyone thought about 3D printing 6610 rack ears?
     
    #2167
  8. Churchill

    Churchill Admiral

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    These switches are not light by any stretch of the means. the ears need to be metal or they will break with any weight put on them at all. Trust me, it's cheaper/safer to buy a set off ebay than to risk having your switch fall from heat/weight in the middle of the night.
     
    #2168
  9. Wolfstar

    Wolfstar Member

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    Absolutely this. Even the 6430s and 6450s are nowhere near light enough for that.

    Though, if you've got one, a 1U or 2U shelf should work okay if you're careful not to shove it off the back of the shelf plugging in cables.
     
    #2169
  10. dwright1542

    dwright1542 Active Member

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    Got any links? I can't find any, which is why I was asking. Also, if they are strong nylon or CF impregnated, and mid-mounted, I suspect they would be fine.

    -D
     
    #2170
  11. MoMeanMugs

    MoMeanMugs New Member

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    I think you could get away with plastic for sure as long as you have a shelf under it. I used the following under mine since the official rails are super expensive:

    https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Ad...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

    I flipped them upside down to not block the vents on the side of the switch. I plan on putting a 1U brushed opening on the same U as the rails to run cables through.
     
    #2171
  12. dwright1542

    dwright1542 Active Member

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    Yup I use them all the time. This is a 2 post rack.
     
    #2172
  13. Wolfstar

    Wolfstar Member

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    You can get center-mount shelves for 2-post racks, but yeah - ears are pricey and I didn't find any for the 6610s. Honestly if it were me, I'd find a center-mount shelf and use C-clamps to hold the switch on as long as I had the room for them. Maybe even spring clamps. Plastic just seems like a bad idea, but I guess if it's strong enough it could work.
     
    #2173
  14. Churchill

    Churchill Admiral

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    #2174
  15. fohdeesha

    fohdeesha Kaini Industries

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    #2175
  16. Wolfstar

    Wolfstar Member

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    #2176
  17. dwright1542

    dwright1542 Active Member

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    Yup, familiar with all of them. We're just using enough of them internally that I'd like to get some ears. I've used these as well:

    2 Post Rack Rails

    At that point I might as well just buy switches with the ears included.

    But I'm going to price out having someone replicate the ears from some I have already. Would anyone else be interested in a group buy?
     
    #2177
  18. raab

    raab New Member

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    What started off as me googling for good fanless switches, with short depth, lead me down the Brocade rabbit hole and I'll probably come away with 2 x 6450-24P's. The only problem is that it's not exactly cheap getting them to New Zealand.. oh well

    Thanks @fohdeesha for the thread and guide
     
    #2178
  19. infoMatt

    infoMatt Member

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    Yep but those aren't fanless! The only model stated in this thread that is passively cooled is the "compact" 7150-C12P... ;)
     
    #2179
  20. raab

    raab New Member

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    Oops, yeah I should've prefaced that with I realise they aren't fanless

    When I stumbled upon this thread my thought process turned into why would I buy a more expensive fanless switch when the Brocade offers so much more
     
    #2180
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