Asus Z10PE won't POST (B0 and B2 error codes)

Rand__

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Mar 6, 2014
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I got it in writiby that's the board is physically fine which it does not seem to be, so I had good chances to win a dispute. And he seems to be a decent guy so was willing to help out at least somewhat.
 

RageBone

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have you checked all the ramslots ?

What "ecc" memory did you use?
Those boards only take Registered ECC.

LongScrewDamage is pretty common, had a friend do that to his Z10PE D16 WS and i recently acquired a one with one defective slot that turned out to also be that damage. I Seem to have been successful repairing both.
 

Rand__

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Of course I used RDimms:)

And what do you mean by long screw damage to the ram slots? Or to what component ?
 

RageBone

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The ILM contains the mounting for the coolingsolution.
Long-Screw-Damage happens when the coolingsolution damages the PCB below the mounting threads by having screws that are to long : )

Some, or better most consumer boards do have holes in the pcb below those threads, but there are exceptions, those ASUS boards are an exception.

To check for such damage, you need to remove the top part of the ILM.

Here are some pictures:
Ragebone/asusZ10PaD8LongScrewDamage
 

Rand__

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Ouchie.
Now that makes we wonder whether Asus will treat that as Customer induced or repair that all if that would be the case.
Seems like a design flaw to me, but I am sure they think differently;)

How have you fixed that?
 

RageBone

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It is not a design flaw or against any standard.
The Manuals and product-pages more or less clearly state the maximum supported screw length.

The repair of the pictured z10pa d8 was rather simple since only one trace was cut and scratched.
The z10pe d16 WS from my friend was much worse with three screes having scratched and cut many traces.
Though both work as far as i know flawless today.

In his case, he used, i think Alpenfön coolers with clearly stated screw lengths above the supported lengths of the board.
Interestingly, only the screws which were tightened very very strongly, did the damage.
He simply wasn't aware of that problem otherwise it wouldn't have happened, luckily, he knew me : )

I'm not aware that Asus or any other sane OEM would repair such a damage.
With Supermicro i'm certain that they wont touch anything with bigger scratches and or ripped off components.

Jaystwocents did a video on that topic a few years ago, where he drilled through a Asrock X99 board and came to the conclusion that you shouldn't do that if you need it to work.

To repair that, you start with scratching away the soldermask above the damaged traces until you see the copper trace, then you pit tin on it.
Depending on the damage, that's enough when the cut wasn't wide, and the solder bridges it, or you need to put a "wire" on top of the trace to bridge the gap.
That's basically it.

There are a few tricks but in general it's simple.
 

Rand__

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Ok.
I have since looked at the cooler screw holes and actually it looks fine there, so I hope thats not it.
I'll send it it, there seems to be a flat rate price for repair (if they can/want to repair it) so shouldnt be too bad. :)
 

RageBone

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Well, you need to actually take the ILM part Off to be sure.
in my experience, the black plastic at the bottom of the ilm doesn't always show signs of that.

Another option is that the RAM VRMs are not working properly. Do you have a multi-meter to check those?

What repair- option have you found? i haven't found anything official other then "asus support" ...
 

Rand__

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It is Asus support but they seem happy to accept my repair request.
 

Rand__

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So after a long back and forth Asus support sent it back malfunctioning.
They said they replaced the sockets but the traces in the board are damaged a d the board does not see the memory slots.
Maybe it indeed is the screw damage, else have to take a closer look at it
 

RageBone

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Replacing a socket is a very delicate operation, but if there is one who can do it, it is Asus.

So I assume that the socket is OK.

Time to take off the ilm and take some pictures.
 

RageBone

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@Rand__ yes indeed, thought i could clean up my repos.

Well, you simply remove the ILM from the board.

Here is a picture of how the ILM is actually assambled:
http://www.pcstats.com/articleimages/201203/gbtx79ud5_2011termin.jpg
Here is a picture showing the two parts that the ILM is falling appart into.
http://cdn.wccftech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Socketed-CPUs-from-AMD.jpg

You only need to unscrew the 4 torx screws around the latches that screw the top part of the ilm onto the botom bracket.
Actually pretty simple.
The only problem might be the Torx head.

Any questions?
 
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Rand__

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<removed>
might not be an intended part of the message ;)

Torx should not be an issue.

And then I look for any damage/scratches as indicated earlier? Will give that a try tomorrow
 
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RageBone

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Thx, edited it.
It is now the correct link.

Yes, that's basically everything.
If you like, pictures would be appreciated