14U Ikea closed server rack ...

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canta

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Nov 26, 2014
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the 2nd update!!!

Rack monitor for monitoring Rack controller hearbeat, and relays rack controller <update> publish mqqt topics. relaying is important when rack controller ethernet got disconnected with any reason, The subscriber (high leve apps) needs to get updated (fans, temps, humids, controller status) to know Controller is dead or just cripple. :D. I put extra precaution due on my last experience with dead PSU on my first rack controller model( no MQTT, just web based and UDP update).
the other important is rack controller is monitored by rack monitor, and get published to let know the apps subscriber status of rack controller (including monitor


using wireless to link between rack controller and monitor. ideally.. monitor can be put every corner in wireless coverage.
I am using fake NRF24L+ (SR24 actually with more power consumption and less sensitivity), this will be replaced when needed more wireless coverage with real RFF24L+


Populated with 1500XL APC UPS



lower intake filter with frame



overal coding is 98% done, need tweaking to handle humidity to no let buzzer go off with false alarm :p

I am populating the closed rack now...

the life-saver, pyhton rules...:
I create simple python-mqtt to monitor all health status with updated information :D, better than doing in bash and C/C++ when needed to create something quick.
the output:
Updated time: 2015-08-12 10:50:52.370450
TEMPERATURE
REAR LOWER : 33.88 C
REAR UPPER : 33.50 C
EXHAUST : 34.00 C
FRONT LOWER: 28.44 C
FRONT UPPER: 28.44 C
AMBIENT : 28.31 C
HUMIDITY
FRONT : 47.80 Percents
REAT : 39.50 Percents
FAN RPMS
UPPER LEFT : 1470 RPM
UPPER MID : 1530 RPM
UPPER RIGHT: 1680 RPM
LOWER LEFT : 1922 RPM
LOWER MID : 1890 RPM
LOWER RIGHT: 2139 RPM


enjoy and to be continued...
 
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canta

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  1. Humidity controller tweaking is done. Controller ignores rear humidiy as long as not reach greater 60%. the front humidity is in full monitoring ( normal range is 40%-60%)
  2. PWM trigger tweaking is done. Need to bump-up PWM speed step due on maintaining rear temperature normally on 33C or less.
90% done!

To do list:
  • move last two remaining servers
  • move this closed rack rack to living room and place tv on the top,
  • installe fake 2 handles on the front:p..

side note:
I plan to add embedded 3.2 LCD display for 2nd passive monitor. why? graphical and nice view:D.
unless......... I change my mind in the future since the goal already achieved.
 
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canta

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Nov 26, 2014
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minor update:
  • replace all casters (two are broken due on heavy load) with more load : Shop Waxman 2-in Rubber Swivel Caster at Lowes.com
  • move running servers/machines to this new closed-rack. this is alot better to reduce noise compared with V1 build.
  • Monitor temperature on front and rear, these seems running well with the last tweaking on PWM trigger; the rear temp is controlled max to 33-34 C ( my expectation after changed PWM trigger) and the front temp is range max to 30 C (average is 28-29 C), with ambient temp 28C.
  • Need 3X 1U blank plates, does everyone wanna sell to me for cheap? :D. these are needed to block front air flow freely to rear fans..

Note:
those UPS 8 SLA batteries are d*mn heavy than I expected, I need to remove the battery catridge to slide freely.
 
Last edited:
TechIsCool

TechIsCool

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Feb 8, 2012
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@canta are you using AVRStudio or Linux for development. Also which debugger if any.

IRQ based interrupt timing or is it all inline?

Are you using a PID to control Humidity and Temp or just a constant PWM output on fan level with notification monitoring.


I have a group of Arduinos that have been running with WIZ5100's for about 4 years now. Monitoring Generator Status and Temperature for 7 locations. Stability is about 99% for most except one. Which we believe got struck by lightning. After replacing the device it works again just fine.

I have always done polling for my notifications and plug them into icinga2. Then icinga2 pushes the data directly into graphite.

Also running NRF24L01+ but I am still not sure if I have knock offs or not. Project got sidelined for about a year since I could not figure it out. Bought new NRF's and it starts working partially. Start investigating and find that the chips can't source enough power through the AVR even though they are rated for it. Adding a 22UF cap made it all better and now its stable.
 
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canta

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Nov 26, 2014
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TechIsCool said:
@canta are you using AVRStudio or Linux for development. Also which debugger if any.

IRQ based interrupt timing or is it all inline?

Are you using a PID to control Humidity and Temp or just a constant PWM output on fan level with notification monitoring.


I have a group of Arduinos that have been running with WIZ5100's for about 4 years now. Monitoring Generator Status and Temperature for 7 locations. Stability is about 99% for most except one. Which we believe got struck by lightning. After replacing the device it works again just fine.

I have always done polling for my notifications and plug them into icinga2. Then icinga2 pushes the data directly into graphite.

Also running NRF24L01+ but I am still not sure if I have knock offs or not. Project got sidelined for about a year since I could not figure it out. Bought new NRF's and it starts working partially. Start investigating and find that the chips can't source enough power through the AVR even though they are rated for it. Adding a 22UF cap made it all better and now its stable.
Click to expand...
arduino IDE on linux.
simple debugging, just using #ifdef defined(DEBUG) . haha

since AVR does not provide HW interrupt. I am using what coding ethics in AVR by pooling the time/time out
I do use soft interrupt to count RPM, which is no really reliable on high-speed. but +/- 100-200RPM is ok for me

PWM is not constant, PWM are based on Temp front/back sensors. the code will control as much as possible or set everything max/buzz-off/Critical MQTT msg when failing.
I read delta ballbearing fan spec and create simple PWM calculation to trigger fan speeds.


I am using mqtt heavily in Local.

wiz5100 is very stable on my experience that never let me down....

NRF24 on ebay are 99% are fake/mislabel (SiR24 or MRF69 or MRF75) hahaha. MRF usually has blob epoxy ( less cheap than SiR24 non blob epoxy version).

I know some seller adafruit, itead, and others sell genuine one. (not in ebay)
knock-off version is cheap $1 each. genuine version is ~$3-4 each.

genuine version does Not need anythin, you just hook weak 3.3V supply and everything happy

fake/mislabel version need cap minimally, I just use 5V-3.3V ams1117 to make sure power are supplied more than enough.

I had many weird issue with only cap solution, one of my gateway with faked nrf24 nuking all ISM channel that cripple all 2.4G wifi nearby.... wifi jamming goes wild. based on that nightmare. 5v-3.3V down is a must on my list.

note: I bought total 20 faked NRF24 :p....
franky, I had to buy original version which cost $3-4/each, but can not resist to get fake version cheaply $1/each.
 
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canta

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TechIsCool said:
@catana awesome I awesome you know about http://www.mysensors.org/ right.

I forget I have DMA access on my Micros since I use Xmega more than Mega.

Yah I have about 20 fake I think the ones I am using now are not know as a fake but could be. Not a blob.
Click to expand...
I visit mysensor once for awhile :D. many information on that site instead reinvent the wheel.
I do not use their libraries since very customized to their taste. I use common libraries that tested by myself before start my own code.
If have too, I just pick whatever needed library inside numerous mysensor libs and stick to my own libs.


my goal is more toward simplified M2M that heavily rely on broker locally and opened to mqtt pub/sub client.
I have winkhub with mqtt enabled :D and was planning to connect to openhab.


mysensor is very good start to know in detail to use sensors :D...

I prefer Zwave device or plain zigbee or lutron for HA actually...

tried to use meshed network, I scrap that. ESP8266 is a live saver, Wifi+MQTT client+Sensor :D, simple and no mess hahaha.

later
 
T_Minus

T_Minus

Build. Break. Fix. Repeat
Feb 15, 2015
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Did you guys follow a guide for your sensor devices or DIY it all? At this point I'd rather spend a few bucks more to not have to write some code for temp sensors :D
 
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canta

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T_Minus said:
Did you guys follow a guide for your sensor devices or DIY it all? At this point I'd rather spend a few bucks more to not have to write some code for temp sensors :D
Click to expand...
all libs are follow the tech spec :D...
whoever the first wrote the lib was indeed follow the guide.
all the communication, the spec are in PDF spec :D heheheh

I stick with Dallas due on +- 0.5 degree margin C with in the range -10 C to +85 C, this is very accurate for general purposes and never let me down.
Have been using dallas since 2012 :p....

the key is one wire communication, two wire communication, I2c, SPI, and serial protocol hahah


on the other side, I verify all temperature reading with on the shelf temp reader :p...
 
cesmith9999

cesmith9999

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Mar 26, 2013
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Now that I see what you have done. I am impressed.

I would have added a shelf for AV equipment. DVD player, Roku, XBox/PlayStation...

Chris
 
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