SATADOM 2 to 3 pin cables - How can I make them?

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jonobk

New Member
Feb 19, 2011
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Winnipeg
Looking for some advice here. I have a couple SATADOMs that don't receive power from the yellow 7 pin on my X10 Supermicro board. I need to power via a tiny connector on the board, and an even tinyer connector on the SATADOM.

These cables cost about $30 Canadian. Ouch!

Any suggestions on how I can make one? Such as, what are the end connectors (type) and where can I get them?

Thanks!
 

Markess

Well-Known Member
May 19, 2018
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This thread might help: https://forums.servethehome.com/ind...-2-pin-satadom-power-cable.27014/#post-249294
In it, Forum Member @BeTeP noted that the 3 Pin connector on his DOMs is:

All my DOMs are Innodisks - they use 3-pin Molex PanelMate 51146 Series (1.25mm pitch) connectors. I do not remember what was on the other side of the cables I got with the modules. I lost the cables long time ago because all my motherboards support power on SATA pin#7.
Thanks to @BeTeP for originally sharing the info.

If your motherboard's 3 pin connector is the same, or another Molex type, you can find out where they are in stock on the Molex site (www.molex.com) The 3 Pin version of the connector listed above is Molex Part 511460200 (Some sites may list it with a leading "0"). Enter that in the search on molex.com and click "Check Distributor Inventory". You can use that to narrow down by region.

Most of the distributor websites will have some sort of search/filter feature to let you find connectors in a family by pin count as well, so if you are lucky and what you need are 3 and 2 pin connectors of the same type, its easier to locate them.

I use Digikey, and at the bottom of the page for a given connector, they also list all the pins and crimpers that are compatible.

Once you know what connector you need though, you may want to search Amazon to see if anyone is selling one (or both) of the connectors you need with pigtails. That way you only have to crimp the other end.

Also, once you know what crimper type you need (assuming you don't already have the tools), you can also search those on Amazon. The parts sites, like Digikey, seem to want to sell you only professional tools. Honestly though, if you only plan to make a few of something, a cheaper tool that works along with some extra connectors/pins to accommodate mistakes and learning curve, is probably cheaper. If you do try, and if you aren't experienced with making cables, make sure you get some extra connectors & pins. Its hard to get it right first time every time, especially with small parts!
 
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jonobk

New Member
Feb 19, 2011
18
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Winnipeg
Thank you, @Markess!

This got me pointed in the right direction, and I've found the part on Digikey that will work with the three pin connection to the Innodisk SATADOM-ML Industrial 3SE (0T4M4) part.

A little more digging on Molex and Digikey any I'm certain I'll find the connector for the board end.
 
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azev

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Jan 18, 2013
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let us know when you found the board end connector, I am in the same boat, need tons of these cables :)
 

azev

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Jan 18, 2013
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that is good, but I'd like to find out the supermicro board connector as well.
 

jonobk

New Member
Feb 19, 2011
18
10
3
Winnipeg
Here are the parts that I have found for this project.

Innodisk
SATADOM-ML 3SE Series (Dell specific revision 0T4M4) No 7 pin power, must be powered with 5v cable.
Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.

Supermicro
X10SRL-F (Supports 7 pin power over two yellow SATA ports. Also has two 5v connectors (JSD1, and JSD2) adjacent to the yellow ports to supply power to SATADOMs if they don't support 7pin SATA power.)
Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.
  • Cable requires Molex 1513400302. (NB: This is both the three pin PicoBlade connector and a 28AWG wire assembly. This is a 150mm version, I would prefer to use the 300mm but it is out of stock currently.)
Tools
 

jonobk

New Member
Feb 19, 2011
18
10
3
Winnipeg
Was about to buy the parts and decided to check clearances for the cables on the SATADOMs. I had planned to run two of these in a mirrored ZFS array to boot FreeNAS from. Unfortunately, the modules would be too close together to allow the connection of the power cable on one of them.

Alas, I wont be able to use them as intended, and wont be ordering the parts to make the cables as a result.
 

Kev

Active Member
Feb 16, 2015
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Here are the parts that I have found for this project.

Innodisk
SATADOM-ML 3SE Series (Dell specific revision 0T4M4) No 7 pin power, must be powered with 5v cable.
Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.
Supermicro
X10SRL-F (Supports 7 pin power over two yellow SATA ports. Also has two 5v connectors (JSD1, and JSD2) adjacent to the yellow ports to supply power to SATADOMs if they don't support 7pin SATA power.)
Uses two contacts (+ and -) on a three contact connector.
  • Cable requires Molex 1513400302. (NB: This is both the three pin PicoBlade connector and a 28AWG wire assembly. This is a 150mm version, I would prefer to use the 300mm but it is out of stock currently.)
Tools
Thanks for all the details. I ordered everything except for the crimp and man, are these connectors/blade/crimp every so tiny. I was going to make a few more for people here but I might want to hold off on that.
 
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Markess

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May 19, 2018
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Northern California
Do you have a crimper? You say everything but the crimp, so I assume you mean crimper?

Honestly, with those tiny connectors, a crimper is about the only way to get a solid connection. Pliers and the like can work with big pins, but these really need a proper crimp or they wont even fit in the housing.

When you do start crimping these: With the smaller connectors, its sometimes easier to hold the crimper "upside down" in your non-dominant hand so you can insert the connector with the "Opening" (the part that will wrap around the wire) upside down (so it looks like a "^") then close the crimper just enough that it holds the connector in place (a racheting crimper is helpful here). Then with your dominant hand (so you have more control) push the stripped wire in to the "^" to the correct depth. Then slowly crimp. Its not the way the pros do it, but I've found it works well.

I didn't come up with that technique....have to give the internet credit for that!

P.S. If you need a crimper, I use an IWISS SN-28, which works great for my occasional use and dowsn't break the bank at about $23 on Amazon (in the U.S.).
 
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